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View Full Version : 2012 Shimano XT M785 Brake Pads - Contamination Problems



Sputnick
12-01-2012, 07:42 PM
Hey Rotorburners!

Running full 2012 XT on my XC HT, and so far its absolutely amazing if anyone is interested in buying it, But am having troubles with the brake pads contaminating or losing power.

From the box the brakes were crazy powerful, and were just incredible. I have owned the groupset for about 3 months and am using 6" Ice Tech rotors and over that amount of time I have lost a considerable amount of braking power. I have already gone through two pairs of pads on the rear due to what I believe was contamination, and the front brake is still on the stock Metal pads but is still lacking the power it first had.

Was wondering if anyone else if having troubles?

My bikes are always in A1 condition and get rebuilt nearly after every ride.

Any info or opinions would be greatly appreciated, I am happy to replace the pads again but dont want to be doing it monthly...

Cheers
Nick

Minlak
12-01-2012, 07:45 PM
So the feeling and power comes back each time you change pads? or changing pads made no difference to it?

Sputnick
12-01-2012, 07:48 PM
So the feeling and power comes back each time you change pads? or changing pads made no difference to it?

Changing pads works, but power is lost again after a few rides.
Also I might add in that I still have a consistent lever feel which eliminates the issue of leaking mineral oil.

And have sanded the pads and even lightly sanded the rotor with no performance difference

Minlak
12-01-2012, 07:51 PM
Rotors glazing over the pads instead of pads depositing material on the rotor .... tried cleaning rotors with isopropyl alcohol and maybe lightly ruffing them with some wet and dry or sandpaper?

_-Sammy-_
12-01-2012, 07:52 PM
no leaks? check lever and caliper hose connections. otherwise possible rotor contamination,
are they noisy at all? best advise get your LBS to check it all out.

Sputnick
12-01-2012, 07:53 PM
Rotors glazing over the pads instead of pads depositing material on the rotor .... tried cleaning rotors with isopropyl alcohol and maybe lightly ruffing them with some wet and dry or sandpaper?

Have tried many many times with brake cleaner from work, and I added me sanding the pads into the post after you posted.

Sputnick
12-01-2012, 07:54 PM
no leaks? check lever and caliper hose connections. otherwise possible rotor contamination,
are they noisy at all? best advise get your LBS to check it all out.

As I said in my 2nd post, no leaks at all. Also the problem is I am my Lbs, I work in a shop.
Was just wondering if anyone else is experiencing similar problems

Minlak
12-01-2012, 07:58 PM
You rebuild the bike a lot no chance of too much lube somewhere flinging back as your riding? Small leak at the caliper possibly from the piston etc wouldn't take much to contaminate and as your cleaning bike so much maybe the leak is so slow you have cleaned it before you can notice it? A very tiny leak may not even be noticeable at the lever for a long time.....

You know like when dust gathers on the oil patch is the only way you see the oil patch?

Just throwing ideas out there to consider

_-Sammy-_
12-01-2012, 08:01 PM
You rebuild the bike a lot no chance of too much lube somewhere flinging back as your riding? Small leak at the caliper possibly from the piston etc wouldn't take much to contaminate and as your cleaning bike so much maybe the leak is so slow you have cleaned it before you can notice it? A very tiny leak may not even be noticeable at the lever for a long time.....

You know like when dust gathers on the oil patch is the only way you see the oil patch?

Just throwing ideas out there to consider

Yer, check for oil signs, all issues ive seen are at caliper or lever.. fixed by new hose and pads + rotor.. Those xt brakes are crazy good with icetech system. No Noise?

Sputnick
12-01-2012, 08:05 PM
Yer, check for oil signs, all issues ive seen are at caliper or lever.. fixed by new hose and pads + rotor.. Those xt brakes are crazy good with icetech system. No Noise?

Yep the rear had loud screeching noises, but I have fixed that. Still lacking power

Minlak
12-01-2012, 08:10 PM
Did some random google fu stuff ... complete off the wall idea but.... the Ice Tech rotors have a different construction technique and make up to nearly? all other rotors ? (Caution maybe talking out of my arse and reading too much shimano hype web sites) any chance its a dodgy rotor? they are meant to have an aluminum core maybe its not layered properly? any chance of trying a new rotor for a while?


Just random thought

Sputnick
12-01-2012, 08:13 PM
Did some random google fu stuff ... complete off the wall idea but.... the Ice Tech rotors have a different construction technique and make up to nearly? all other rotors ? (Caution maybe talking out of my arse and reading too much shimano hype web sites) any chance its a dodgy rotor? they are meant to have an aluminum core maybe its not layered properly? any chance of trying a new rotor for a while?


Just random thought
You ate correct about the rotor, it's is a sandwich with aluminum in the middle and steel on the outside. It's purpose is to dissipate heat faster. I doubt it's dodgy though as I'm loosing power in the front aswell

Minlak
12-01-2012, 08:18 PM
Well i'm fresh outta ideas now mine work great even after an absent minded less then perfect cable shortening :) ... sorry dont have the right answer :( good luck hope it gets sorted soon....

muvro
12-01-2012, 08:24 PM
What do you clean your bike with?

Sputnick
12-01-2012, 08:31 PM
What do you clean your bike with?

Muc off...

muvro
12-01-2012, 08:48 PM
Bugga, I was hoping you were going to say car wash or something with silicone in it.

Could it possibly be cleaning the chain&cassette with the brush then going over the disc or flicking degreaser onto the disc or something like that.

Sputnick
12-01-2012, 09:02 PM
Bugga, I was hoping you were going to say car wash or something with silicone in it.

Could it possibly be cleaning the chain&cassette with the brush then going over the disc or flicking degreaser onto the disc or something like that.

I don't think so.
Anyone have problems with pad quality??

MARKL
12-01-2012, 09:16 PM
I would go with the KISS approach and do less maintenance on the bike for a while and see if that helps - you shouldn't need to rebuild the bike after every ride.

Basically isopropyl the rotors, put new pads and don't fix anything that aint broken. Don't put any other fluid near the brakes, don't touch them or any other part of the bike and do a few rides.

I was doing a race once and 20mins before heading to the starting line 'team support' degreased the chain (the bike had been completely rebuilt 2 weeks prior and was perfect) pads contaminated instantly.

Sputnick
13-01-2012, 08:22 AM
I would go with the KISS approach and do less maintenance on the bike for a while and see if that helps - you shouldn't need to rebuild the bike after every ride.

Basically isopropyl the rotors, put new pads and don't fix anything that aint broken. Don't put any other fluid near the brakes, don't touch them or any other part of the bike and do a few rides.

I was doing a race once and 20mins before heading to the starting line 'team support' degreased the chain (the bike had been completely rebuilt 2 weeks prior and was perfect) pads contaminated instantly.

I think this might have to be my solution if nobody else is having pad issues with this particular brake.

My next issue is that Shimano Australia have run out of the Ice Tech pads :crushed:

niki125
13-01-2012, 08:39 AM
I've heard rumours of the Ice-tec pads being easily contaminated however haven't had any issues with mine. Less maintenance would be my only suggestion.

Sputnick
13-01-2012, 08:43 AM
I've heard rumours of the Ice-tec pads being easily contaminated however haven't had any issues with mine. Less maintenance would be my only suggestion.

Ooooh yeah this is the information I like to hear. Can anyone scrape up any more details?
New pads and a good clean of the rotors will most probably solve it and me doing less work to the bike in my boredom will help, but im still interested if anyone is having any more troubles with this particular brake pads.

nismo
13-01-2012, 09:19 AM
Ooooh yeah this is the information I like to hear. Can anyone scrape up any more details?
New pads and a good clean of the rotors will most probably solve it and me doing less work to the bike in my boredom will help, but im still interested if anyone is having any more troubles with this particular brake pads.

I use 2011 xt brakes currently with nukeproof enduro pads that i found on CRC. I lost power after 10-15 rides and the first 15 minutes of riding both brakes squal until they 'warm up' then they stop making noise.

i tried, scuffing pads, scuffing rotors, brake cleaner and alignment... nothing helped solve the problem indefinitley only temporarily. i figure this is just how the brakes are meant to be.

1) its easier than you think to contaminate pads and rotors so take care
2) as the others said, slow down on the maintenance
3) try differernt brake compounds if possible.

i think il just have to live with the power loss for now ...

bmar560
13-01-2012, 09:28 AM
I've had the brakes installed for about a month now and done about maybe 15 rides on them. They're still as good as new when it comes to power. What I find after cleaning the rotors with alcohol the brakes feel like it's got less power, it's definitely more snappy when the rotors are dirty. If I start off riding with clean rotors, halfway through the ride the brakes will feel normal again. Awesome brakes, wayyyyyy better than the Crapelixir 5 I had before.

Sputnick
13-01-2012, 10:39 AM
I've had the brakes installed for about a month now and done about maybe 15 rides on them. They're still as good as new when it comes to power. What I find after cleaning the rotors with alcohol the brakes feel like it's got less power, it's definitely more snappy when the rotors are dirty. If I start off riding with clean rotors, halfway through the ride the brakes will feel normal again. Awesome brakes, wayyyyyy better than the Crapelixir 5 I had before.

I also have noticed that, they work much better with dirty rotors than clean ones. Quite annoying when I love having my bikes nice and clean.

So I guess another pair of new pads and keep the bike dirty is the solution for now. Ill see how I go

willsy01
13-01-2012, 10:50 AM
I also have noticed that, they work much better with dirty rotors than clean ones. Quite annoying when I love having my bikes nice and clean.

So I guess another pair of new pads and keep the bike dirty is the solution for now. Ill see how I go

You're not cleaning your rotors after every ride are you? They need some pad residue on them to work properly......

Sputnick
13-01-2012, 11:06 AM
You're not cleaning your rotors after every ride are you? They need some pad residue on them to work properly......

Nope, just the frame & fork. I know im a mechanic, just wondering if anyone has been easily contaminating these ice tech pads

dusty_nz
19-01-2012, 09:46 AM
Nope, just the frame & fork. I know im a mechanic, just wondering if anyone has been easily contaminating these ice tech pads

I have done a similar post.

I am putting my down to a leak somewhere. Have had it happen previously and the symptons and pattern is the same this time around. Prev (Hopes) was leaking piston seal after 2 years. Replaced seal and prob was solved.

Pretty slack with cleaning so doubt contamination is a problem. Mainly a hose down and chain clean.

Big clue is a very slight oilly film on the caliper. Leaver feel has not changed.

Also if it improves after getting a lot of heat into also indicated oil. Squealing as well.

and.. There have been a few googles about leaking banjo's. Not sure if it hose to banjo or banjo to caliper leak.

Anyway, I have the problem front and rear. Will do some investigating tonight and post.

rone
19-01-2012, 09:54 AM
Is nobody going to suggest buying Avids? How strange....

dusty_nz
19-01-2012, 10:15 PM
Is nobody going to suggest buying Avids? How strange....

LOL. Read my thread

http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/showthread.php?237662-Leaking-2011-XTR-Brakes

Quote "Got similar problem with my Avid Codes... Seal on banjo could have been missing or damaged and brake fluid can be seen spurting when the lever is squeezed."

dusty_nz
19-01-2012, 10:19 PM
Yep, As suspected.

Cleaned my brakes. Got rid of all the oil I could find.
Then used a toe clip strap and put some decent load on my lever.

2 Mins latter noticed this.
223160

Leaking between hose and banjo. Rest seemed dry. Have not checked the pad seals but have ordered some new hoses.

Put some pliers on it just to see if it would turn / tighten but no luck. It def is a crimp jobbie.

Also, No pads avail in Australia. Shimano OZ have not imported any in. Wembly cycles have been stripping pads of new bikes to get customers going.

Will put an order in at CR

Sputnick
20-01-2012, 03:38 PM
Yep, As suspected.

Cleaned my brakes. Got rid of all the oil I could find.
Then used a toe clip strap and put some decent load on my lever.

2 Mins latter noticed this.
223160

Leaking between hose and banjo. Rest seemed dry. Have not checked the pad seals but have ordered some new hoses.

Put some pliers on it just to see if it would turn / tighten but no luck. It def is a crimp jobbie.

Also, No pads avail in Australia. Shimano OZ have not imported any in. Wembly cycles have been stripping pads of new bikes to get customers going.

Will put an order in at CR

If you can wait, new stock of pads are available on 5th of Feb from Shimano Oz.
Because of the lack of pads in australia I cracked the shits yesterday and got the pads onto the gas stove to burn out the oil. Worked a treat but the anodizing on the fins changed colour and is now grey. Only fear now is that I have damaged the glue from the pad to the backing, but after a solid ride at lysterfield this morning with no issues it seems to be ok.

dug8713
22-01-2012, 09:16 PM
Yep, As suspected.

Cleaned my brakes. Got rid of all the oil I could find.
Then used a toe clip strap and put some decent load on my lever.

2 Mins latter noticed this.
223160

Leaking between hose and banjo. Rest seemed dry. Have not checked the pad seals but have ordered some new hoses.

Put some pliers on it just to see if it would turn / tighten but no luck. It def is a crimp jobbie.

Also, No pads avail in Australia. Shimano OZ have not imported any in. Wembly cycles have been stripping pads of new bikes to get customers going.

Will put an order in at CR

I had this exact problem with my 2011 XTR brakes too. As its leaking from the crimped hose/banjo connection, theres no choice but to replace.

I have since replaced my front and rear hose with Goodridge lines (brake kit 107. Use Goodridge banjo and Shimano banjo bolt to connect to caliper) and has never leaked since.

bmar560
28-01-2012, 06:41 AM
Is the leaking banjo covered by warranty ?

Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk

dusty_nz
28-01-2012, 07:15 AM
Hmm. Brought on ebay for almost 1/2 price. Doubt it.

GELPIG
05-02-2012, 09:36 PM
Nope, just the frame & fork. I know im a mechanic, just wondering if anyone has been easily contaminating these ice tech pads

Have the same problem I think with M785 brakes and rotors. Have tried M985 pads also, It will be fine for a ride or two then after a weeks storage I jump on and they squeal and barely work! I mostly just hose down and lube the chain too and have been ridiculously careful lately, now on my third set of pads !!! The stock finned pads seem to me to have a fair bit more bite and also more tolerance to the contamination than the XTR pads.

After reading this thread I gave my callipers a careful wipe before storing, now a few days later I can see a film of oil on them!!!

D_Nine
05-02-2012, 09:59 PM
Easy fix do what I did and run the new XT levers with Saint calipers ! No issues at all,done heaps of rides now and always have more than enough power !

dusty_nz
05-02-2012, 11:29 PM
Well just replaced my brake lines.

Soaked the pads in Isopropal for a week then scrubbed with hot soapy water.

Seem to have come up okay. No squealing yet.

Should have chucked them on the bbq to cook them up.

Fingers crossed the brakes lines don't fail again.

dusty_nz
01-03-2012, 01:39 PM
Been a few weeks since fitting the new hoses.

After the scrup and soak the pads were ok but after chucking them on the BBQ to bake for an hour they are like new.

No more issue with leaks and pads feel is consistent between rides.

Problem solved.

Crittski
01-03-2012, 01:54 PM
I have just got my XTR trail brakes back from Shimano Australia. I had a leaking banjo front and rear. They have replaced the hoses under warranty which was nice, and they threw in some new pads too.

Mad Hatter
01-03-2012, 03:12 PM
I put the new icetech brakes on my wifes brakes and she is having exactly the same problem.
The brakes are friggin awesome at first and then the power fades out after a while (talking a month or so).
Still got good pressure at the lever and no amount of cleaning helps.
Replaced the pads and cleaned the rotors with all the right stuff and all is good..... for a month or so and then they start fading again.
Sent the pads to Shimano to be checked and they say they have been contaminated with oil, but not the mineral oil used in the brake system. (How could they tell???)
Anyway, it was suggested by a bloke who knows a bloke who dated a mates sister at the local pub that the trail pads contaminate easily and the cooling fins and icetech rotors work so effectively that the brakes just don`t get hot enough to burn of the contaminates like a cheap set of dodgy Avids would.

Cheers
MH

dusty_nz
01-03-2012, 03:59 PM
Just my 2 cents but have been riding disc brakes for over 10 years now and to be honest I don't find the contamination issues of the shimano pads any worse than other pads/brakes. Had MAgura, Avid, early shimano, Hope and back to shimano.

Check for hose leakage - See above, Clean caliper with tissues (Clean and dry incl bano+hose).used a toe clip to hold the lever tight against the bar. Wait. If it is leaking you will see after 10 minutes.

If pads are contaminated then chuck them on the BBQ grill untill they stop smoking. Heat does not worry them. Let them cool them chuck them back on.

If they are good then they should sound dry versus creaky with slight application.

Sputnick
01-03-2012, 03:59 PM
Anyway, it was suggested by a bloke who knows a bloke who dated a mates sister at the local pub that the trail pads contaminate easily and the cooling fins and icetech rotors work so effectively that the brakes just don`t get hot enough to burn of the contaminates like a cheap set of dodgy Avids would.

Cheers
MH

That is a very very good point, but hard to prove.
I am over a month out from popping my pads on the gas stove, and have had no more issues with the pads as of yet.

MARKL
01-03-2012, 07:22 PM
Then used a toe clip strap and put some decent load on my lever.


I understand what you were trying to do but you really don't think you need to put that much load on the lever...a rubber band will do.



I am over a month out from popping my pads on the gas stove, and have had no more issues with the pads as of yet.

How are you enjoying the lifestyle change of less bike maintenance?

dusty_nz
01-03-2012, 07:59 PM
The reason I used the toe strap is for results. A rubberband may not re-produce the issue. As it was the toestrap took over 10 minutes before I saw the fluid start to seep and it was just a seep. The photo is after 20 minutes.

vtwiz
01-03-2012, 09:50 PM
Im having the same issue on two different bikes with 2012 XT brakes. Both have developed a god awful howl (and lack power) that gets better after 30mins of riding. Put the bike in the garage and the next day they howl and lack power again (although on one bike it is only the front with issues). I am running the stock Resin pads and was planning on switching to metal sintered before winter. Never had these issues with Formula or old Hayes and I regularly wash the bike with regular car wash (or heavy duty truck wash). Then again, I've never used brakes with resin pads either. Bloody annoying.

dusty_nz
01-03-2012, 11:23 PM
I have heard that the metal pads have more bite but also tend to be noiser.

Run through the thread and check for the symptoms

Sounds like contamination. Mine would be great one day then the next day they would howl like a banshee and no slowly. Once the heat got back in they would work until the next day. New lines and all is good again.

There is no way I would want more bite with mine

Mad Hatter
02-03-2012, 09:06 AM
Tried the heating the pads on a hot plate thing. Given them a light sanding and cleaned the rotors with a fancy disk brake cleaning spray (that I can`t remember the name of). Installed back in the bike but still no brake force. The psitons are working. The lever has heaps of pressure but I can turn the wheel by hand with the brake lever pulled in really hard.
Very annoying.

I run the previous version of XTR on my own bike and both bikes do a similar amount of riding and get cleaned exactly the same at the same time by me so I can only put it down to brake design. I`ve made enquiries with Shimano direct so I`ll post up any response.

Cheers
MH

dusty_nz
02-03-2012, 09:32 AM
Tried the heating the pads on a hot plate thing. Given them a light sanding and cleaned the rotors with a fancy disk brake cleaning spray (that I can`t remember the name of). Installed back in the bike but still no brake force. The psitons are working. The lever has heaps of pressure but I can turn the wheel by hand with the brake lever pulled in really hard.
Very annoying.

I run the previous version of XTR on my own bike and both bikes do a similar amount of riding and get cleaned exactly the same at the same time by me so I can only put it down to brake design. I`ve made enquiries with Shimano direct so I`ll post up any response.

Cheers
MH

Okay.


Scrubbing brush, hot water(close to boiling as possible) and simple sunlight/ palmolive etc or whatever dishwashing liquid, No organic or flash stuff.
When removing the pads permantly mark them, Score with a file on the metal back plate, I number 1-4 scores.
Scrub the disk, Caliper and pads all separately. Rinse with water. Thats it. No magic stuff or specific cleaners. Good old soap sudds.
Chuck the pads (pad down) on the "cleaned" grill (Not hot plate) on the bbq, Just above the flame, Crank to high and leave. After 5-10 minutes you will see some small amount of smoke. Leave for at least 10 minutes and untill the pads have stopped smoking.
They will be untouchable for about 10 minutes. Really hot.
Don't sand, Sanding will remove the bedding in and mean you have to re-bed in. It sometimes removes some surface contamination but in bad cases does nothing
remount in the exact same order they were removed, Swapping them around will mean you have to re-bed in.
If you have sanded or got them mixed up then you will need to bed them in, Long downhill with dragging brakes should do the job.


This is what I used to salvage my XTR's and they are like new. They were saturated when pulled off at the start of the clean.

This is all pointless if the source of the problem is not resolved.
Possible sources include

Leaking hoses (XTR brand new like mine)
Leaking piston seals
Split calipers may leak in the Joins. Old Hopes were famous for this.



When dismantling look for where the dust is. Dust does not stick to clean and dry surfaces.
Back of the pads where the piston touches. If you see a wet ring then could mean piston seals are leaking.

And, If you simply clean your bike with soap and water then contamination is not an issue, Any residue will burn off in seconds. Not worth stressing about

Mad Hatter
02-03-2012, 09:36 AM
.... and the response was very quick.
Without admitting that there is a problem with the brakes, they told me that the compound used in the pads has been changed from the original. (why change if there isn`t a problem?)
I use metal rather than resign pads usually and they tell me that any with a product code ending in 20 are old original formula and new ones should have a product code ending in 2A.

Off to my LBS to check the codes.
I`ll let you know if they work.

Cheers

MH

dusty_nz
02-03-2012, 10:23 AM
I will need to check but I got my XTR 2012's in August last year so very new.

Still orig pads.

Sh1t3 with oil on them, Brill without.

If the performance is changing between rides then you have contamination problems, Changing the pads will only make a difference for the one day.

morkz_media
27-04-2012, 07:54 PM
Hi all

I've got some 2012 xt brakes, now they squeal I'm assuming it's contimination but it's on both front and rear I got the bike new but it was second hand never really used so I thought they needed to bed it but doesnt look like the case.

They don't squeal heaps just lack of break strength

dusty_nz
27-04-2012, 08:51 PM
Hi all

I've got some 2012 xt brakes, now they squeal I'm assuming it's contimination but it's on both front and rear I got the bike new but it was second hand never really used so I thought they needed to bed it but doesnt look like the case.

They don't squeal heaps just lack of break strength

Contamination is generally over rated. Usually needs to be pretty bad for it to cause a continued problem. Eg Spray CRC on discs or brakes/hoses leaking fluids.

Pull the pads out taking note of condition. Do they look dry or is there evidence of moisture? Smell them? If its dry where you are then you would notice dust sticking to any leaks.

vtwiz
28-04-2012, 11:00 AM
Contamination out of the box on XT brakes is common. CRC or similar goes nowhere near my bike and I had brake howl from day one along with very little power from the front brake.
I have now switched over to a sintered pad and all my problems have gone away. As an aside, I have used sintered pads for 9 years on early Hayes and more recent Formula brakes and really don't know why you would bother with resin. But anyway, that's beside the point.
Apparently shimano have now changed their resin pad compound so hopefully that should help.

willsy01
04-05-2012, 03:30 PM
So I was housebound last weekend with what I can only describe as the bubonic plague. On one of my many trips past the spare room (the bike room) I decided to have a look at some of the many pairs of pads that had managed to contaminate themselves and see if I could save any of them.

First up were the Shimano metals i'd put in the back of the Trance. Took 'em out, scrubbed them with hot soapy water then popped them on the bbq for 20mins.......lo and behold, they started smoking once they got to a decent temperature then the smoke disappeared after a while. Next up was the rotor, hit it with hot soapy water also and left it to dry in the sun. But it all back together and bam, braking power restored. Happy days.

I also have about 6 pairs of kevlar pads from Discobrakes that had managed to contaminate themselves also. The latest set was in the rear of the XTC so I popped them out and gave them the same treatment as the metals and scrubbed the disc as well. Again, success!

Now I have usable brake pads coming out the wazoo. Then the Clarks organic pads I ordered from CRC arrived......and I found another 2 new sets of the kevlar pads in the tool box. Think i'll be right for a while. As to what caused the contamination in the first place (on two separate bikes), i've put it down to the pre-ride application of Rock n Roll lube after someone mentioned they covered their brakes whilst doing this. Must have been getting some tiny splashes on the rotor!

[/coolstoryhansel]

nismo
05-05-2012, 06:51 PM
puk this. $200 plus dollars for a pair of brakes and you have to put parts on the bbq for them to work properly.

I would expect this from a $20 pair of brakes, not the second tier shimano brakes.

I use 2011 xt brakes and have the same problem, where the brakes squal for the first 30 mins of every ride.

Does shimano know that I have a webber and not a gas bbq! Its going to take me 30 mins to get the damn bbq lit.

screw you shimano

nismo
02-07-2012, 02:41 PM
FYI

replaced the hoses on my XT m785 brakes and NO more squal.

I think, yes, the small leak from the banjo (as seen in photo earlier) was causing contamination, but it was the leaking hose that made the brakes lose a small fraction of their grabbing power, this loss in grabbing power made the disc and pad vibrate..

anyhow changing the hoses and bleeding, made the noise go away without even cleaning the discs or baking the pads etc.