TUBELESS TYRE MEGATHREAD - All questions asked and answered in here!!

[bluesmurf]

I have just converted my tires to tubeless using the ghetto method and it seems to have worked ok.

So I looked at my bike today and both tires are completely flat. After the conversion 3 days ago the rear dropped some pressure but the front seemed to hold most of the 60psi i put in to seat the tires. I haven't ridden the bike and it has been hung up in the house.

Does anyone have any ideas as to why both tires might have dropped all their air?

By the way, yesterday when I checked the tires they were both fine

 

[outtacontrol]

So I looked at my bike today and both tires are completely flat. After the conversion 3 days ago the rear dropped some pressure but the front seemed to hold most of the 60psi i put in to seat the tires. I haven't ridden the bike and it has been hung up in the house.

Does anyone have any ideas as to why both tires might have dropped all their air?

By the way, yesterday when I checked the tires they were both fine

I'm guessing you have used non UST tyres. They have very thin side walls and can be very porous. It usually takes a few scoops to seal up the sidewalls.

I usually go for a ride straight away to give the sealant a chance to spread over the whole inside surface.

 

[Newton]

the front seemed to hold most of the 60psi i put in to seat the tires. :

60 psi will open up your porous side walls, try leaving the tyres at 30-35 psi, you shouldn't need more than that, when your ready to ride run them upto 35-40 psi.

 

[bluesmurf]

I'm guessing you have used non UST tyres. They have very thin side walls and can be very porous. It usually takes a few scoops to seal up the sidewalls..

Yes I am using the tires that came with the bike, hence "ghetto tubeless". I will add some more latex mix pump them up again and see how i go.

60 psi will open up your porous side walls, try leaving the tyres at 30-35 psi, you shouldn't need more than that, when your ready to ride run them upto 35-40 psi.

35-40 psi kinda negates the whole tubeless+low pressure= grip advantage doesn't it? I normally run about 38 with tubes and was going to try 28-30 tubeless. What pressures do people who run similar set ups ride with?

 

[Win]

Are you guys using too much pressure when first setting these tyres up?
I can't remember ever having sealant come out the side of a RR...I have set quite a few up, tubeless

 

[Newton]

60 psi will open up your porous side walls, try leaving the tyres at 30-35 psi, you shouldn't need more than that, when your ready to ride run them upto 35-40 psi.

Should have qualified this comment - XC and I'm about 95kg's, yes you can run them with less pressure - the point I was making was more about not using pressures over 40psi when first setting up tubeless with non tubeless tyres...

 

[tasty.dirt74]

Dont exceed manufacturers recommended pressures.

Should have qualified this comment - XC and I'm about 95kg's, yes you can run them with less pressure - the point I was making was more about not using pressures over 40psi when first setting up tubeless with non tubeless tyres...

Sometimes , to seat the beads correctly requires UP TO 60psi. The tyre manufacturers state on the sidewall of the tyres do not exceed 65 psi.

For the initial inflation, I leave them at that pressure, and keep an eye on them for the first hour or so..it gives me a idea of how well the tyres are going to hold up to tubeless.

I do agree that high pressure can actually force the sealant out of the sidewall. A set of Small block 8's gave me no end of trouble as the sidewall would leak a fine, high pressure spray, then seal, then another fine , high pressure spray would occur elsewhere on the sidewall, until i put a tube in them. That sure fixed it !!!

UST "ready" tires are a good compromise, as they have ust beads, which helps prevent burping, yet retain the std lighter sidewall, so you should use sealant to help seal the sidewall, and more importantly, against punctures.

I am a fat bastard,ie 174cm and 90+kg's and run the 2.4 Maxxis ADvantage at around 28psi. The rear TT 2.3 at around 30psi. This is on UST rims however....the tyres are std. Ie: not ust.

 

[outtacontrol]

I am a fat bastard,ie 174cm and 90+kg's and run the 2.4 Maxxis ADvantage at around 28psi. The rear TT 2.3 at around 30psi. This is on UST rims however....the tyres are std. Ie: not ust.

This week anyway

And I wouldn't say fat, I would just say cuddly

 

[skwiz05]

Yes I am using the tires that came with the bike, hence "ghetto tubeless". I will add some more latex mix pump them up again and see how i go.

35-40 psi kinda negates the whole tubeless+low pressure= grip advantage doesn't it? I normally run about 38 with tubes and was going to try 28-30 tubeless. What pressures do people who run similar set ups ride with?

People seem to sometimes forget that the quoted advantages of tubeless are normally referred to a proper tubeless setup -tyres with UST beads that correctly sit on UST rims - which seals properly and hence you can use lower pressures.

Getto tubeless does have advantages, but I still think that you will only be able to drop a few pounds pressure, and it aint going to improve your grip that much for the average person, but the puncture repair advantage is still definately worth it.

 

[Pizzaz]

So general consensus seems to be down to the Conti Race King or the Schwable Racing Ralph?
1.) Wondering if anyone can tell me the difference between the ordinary Racing Ralph and the Evolution version? Is it worth the extra dollars?
2.) I like the Ignitor on the front of my 26" bike. CRC have it in 29" but folding is "special order". What is the difference between folding and wire bead? Will they both seal with Stan's sealant on Stand rims?
3.) The race king looks fast but doesnt seem to have much in the way of traction on the sides. So I am thinking a Race King on the back and a Racing Ralph on the front

Am aiming for the perfect setup for Stromlo. So I reckon you need something with nice strong side walls, something that will stick to the pebbly slippery surface on those tight switchbacks and something on the front with some cornering grip for that fast descent.

Suggestions?

I've run racing ralph's front and rear at Stromlo (normal verson) setup tubeless and they were fine and I've also run Race Kings F&R and they were great as well. Personally I feel a bit better on the Race Kings than the Ralphs but then again, I find Ignitors to be the most overrated and sketchy trye that I've ever ridden on!

The race kings seem to handle wear better - when the ralphs start to wear the knobs round and the traction goes long before you run out of tread. The race kings are a bit more even (I'm generally getting about 1400km or so out of a rear mostly offroad but some commuting etc as well)

My standard setup at the moment is a Race King rear and a Mountain King front - the MKs have a little more grip when they're lent over and don't seem to carry much of a weight (or rolling resistance) penalty when used as a front.

 

[Stevob]

I find Ignitors to be the most overrated and sketchy trye that I've ever ridden on!

At last, someone who agrees with me on this.

 

[goryden]

Tubeless conversion ends in tears

Guys,
Interesting story to follow about my experience with going tubeless on the 29er. From what I can tell this is a pretty rare occurence, but something to be mindful of.
When are we going to get some options with proper 29" tubeless tyres that dont cost the earth?
Hope this is helpful
Mike

Setup is Stans 355 29" rims, Schwable Racing Ralph EVO SnakeSkin tyre (29x2.25)
Tyre inflated beautifully and beaded easily. Tyre was then inflated to about 35psi
Noticed within a minute or so a big triangular shaped bubble in the sidewall just under the tread
Emailed supplier and they said they would send a replacement but to make sure I was using a compatible sealant. Checked Schwable web site and they clearly state Stans or any other sealant with Ammonia will degrade tyre wall.
Removed the tyre and cleaned off Stans, checked bubble and cannot squeeze air out of it.
I actually sealed two tyres this way (front and back). The other tyre did not show any signs of blistering, but have removed and cleaned off Stan's to be safe.
Am going to give the Caffe Latex sealant a try as it has no ammonia.
FRM was also suggested but I have been told it has about 0.2% ammonia, which is approx same as what is quoted for Stans, so that rules out FRM

 

[*rach*]

well that is disappointing!! Cannot believe I read this immediately AFTER doing a tubeless set up that is exactly what you described.
No blistering or weird stuff....

Anyone else had this happen with the schwalbe and stans combo?
Do I really need to go peel the tyres off and clean out the stans!!!

 

[sossy]

I have run many non ust tyres with all sorts of sealants. I am currently using Panaracer Rampage non ust set up tubeless with Stans sealant, prior to this I was on Specialized fast trak 2bliss with stans, before that, I was using Racing ralphs, both with home brew (containing windex - ammonia) and Stans, neither of these have caused problems.


I have seen tyres blister that have had all sorts of different sealents in them, some with ammonia, some without, I have even seen non ust tyres blister that have never been without a tube in them.

It's tyre production, like everything, sometimes you get a bad one. I wouldnt stress too much *rach*, it happens with diffrerent tyres and different sealants, it happens without sealant. It's unlucky when it does, but it happens.

Having used many different sealants, including caffe latex, spex, stans, joes no flats, slime and home brew, I wont use anything other than stans or homebrew if Im out of stans and cant get any when needed - these have proved by far the most reliable.

 

[fezi]

well that is disappointing!! Cannot believe I read this immediately AFTER doing a tubeless set up that is exactly what you described.
No blistering or weird stuff....

Anyone else had this happen with the schwalbe and stans combo?
Do I really need to go peel the tyres off and clean out the stans!!!

I've done the stans/schwable combo with no issues but have had maxxis tyres do the bubble thing

 

[Bodin]

Blistering

Wow, in all my years in riding and on forums, I have NEVER heard of (or seen) this blistering phenomenon. Just goes to show that you still learn something new every day.

 

[*rach*]

Ok well, since nothing seems to have exploded - I am rolling the dice and left the stans in.
Won't be topping it up in a hurry though....

 

[Win]

well that is disappointing!! Cannot believe I read this immediately AFTER doing a tubeless set up that is exactly what you described.
No blistering or weird stuff....

Anyone else had this happen with the schwalbe and stans combo?
Do I really need to go peel the tyres off and clean out the stans!!!

No, there's a million people running around on that combo worldwide
Stop stressing about tyres. Your combo for your weight and type of riding and conditions is belt and braces anyway.
If that fails you in a race it's just bad luck

 

[*rach*]

belt?? as in belt drive???

bwhahahaaaa. too much power in these legs for a mere belt drive

(read: I need sh!tloads of gears).

 

[skinya]

tire bubble virus

I also had the tyre bubble virus on a ust crossmark , rep was very good about it and replaced it promtly.