The Photo Snob Thread

Ben-e

Captain Critter!
Yep, increasing the distance from the camera to the focal point will increase the depth of field (DOF) (the area of the photo that remains in focus).

| white text <|> | = Shallow depth of field

| white < wh | wh > white text | = Increased depth of field

In each case "|" = (L to R) Background, Subject, Camera. <> = Depth of field.

So the more you step back, the more of Charlie will be in focus. However, the trade off here is that because you're shooting with a prime lens, you lose the framing that you have when you step back. You can always crop later, but you lose quality/resolution then.

The other way to increase depth of field with a prime lens is to stop the lens down a bit (decreasing aperture—i.e. increasing the number from say f/1.8 to f/3).

Try and take the same shot of Charlie with different combinations of settings and see if you can work out the relationships between DOF and aperture and DOF and proportions of distance between the subject and the background and the subject and the camera. And when you take a portrait, focus on the eyes.
Yer im still trying to come to grips with the relationship between DOF and aperture. With prime lenses and close objects/people etc ive been told that its common practice to stop down to f/3.5-5 ish, which provides pretty good results.

As you stated, the more you step back the more the object will be in focus, so I guess its a matter of finding a good combination of bokeh, framing and clarity - i find this difficult with this lens though! I probably need more practice :p. But I will certainly try what you suggested. I will try like 200 ISO at f/3 slightly moved back from the object in focus.

Thanks man!
 

AngoXC

Wheel size expert
Very nice composition. How long was the exposure?
Cheers mate :) 30 seconds

Im saving for the 70-200/2.8 at the moment
I purchased mine new for $1800 so $700 is quite a bargain! Infact, I think the Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 can be had around that price.

It is an absolutely exceptional lens - fast, sharp, superb bokeh and exceptional colour rendition and contrast. The VRII offers an improvement on the light fall off issue that the VRI suffered from - an annomoly that you'd only pick up using a Full Frame FX body (since the smaller image circle of the DX 'crops' the outer part of the frame where the fall off/vignette occurs). The Nano-crystal coating is another benefit but is mainly there to control flare - an issue I've never had with the VR. In short, on a DX body, the VR is a great buy!

Cheaper alternatives can be found in the form of the older 80-200 f/2.8 - this lens operates off the camera's in-built focus drive motor so it's a little slower but is just as good (if not better in some optical respects) as the 70-200 f/2.8 VR. The last one I'll point out is the Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 - a great lens all round but it lacks the build and the performance @ f/2.8 as the Nikkors. For the price however, you can't go wrong.

Anyone have any thoughts on these? I here all three are very good, especially the Sigma.
I have the the Ai 50mm f/1.2, the AF 50mm f/1.4D, the AF 50mm f/1.8D and the Ai 50mm f/2 and of the four, the 1.4 is by far my favorite. My housemate has the 55 f/3.5 Macro which he bought for $35 but we won't go there. Haven't used the Sigma personally on Nikon but on Canon, it's fantastic. Likewise, haven't had much to do with the AF-S lens as it won't mount on my film gear (where as the above four will). Just a few notes;

  • The Sig and the AF-S version have built-in focus motors and will therefore focus faster and quieter. However, given this is a portrait lens, focus speed probably isn't as important as image quality.
  • The Sig and the AF-D I think have the best IQ, that is, bokeh, contrast, colour and the likes. The Sig and the AF-S however, perform better @ 1.4.
  • The Sig is a BIG lens - the AF-D fits easily into my kit bag/pocket. The AF-S is a little larger due to the AF motor but still is relatively compact.
  • The AF-D won for me in the end purely from a price perspective - I got mine new and shipped for $280 from Digital Rev. The Sigma is pretty awesome but I wasn't overly happy with the build or the size and it's optical benefits over the 1.4D didn't justify the price jump in my mind. That and I couldn't use it with my Nikkormat :p

For landscape/architecture however, you probably want something wider though. 50mm on a DX isn't overly wide - in fact it's bordering on telephoto!

The Aforementioned Tokina is an outstanding lens - wish it existed when I bought my Sigma 10-20...

Hope that helps man!
 
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Elbo

pesky scooter kids git off ma lawn
No worries mate. Yeah I shoot with a Canon 35mm f/2 so I know what you mean regarding finding the balance between those elements, just takes practice. Its the same for anything though, there is always a trade off where you can generally have 2 of 3 things you might want and you just have to prioritise depending on the type of shot you are trying to get.

Looking through all my photos, most of the time my lens is wide open at f/2 is when its really low light and I'm trying to capture a whole scene that's a couple of metres away, as opposed to a portrait of an individual person. In no way can I take a good portrait, but funnily enough, what I consider to be my best portrait was taken at f/2 :p
 

Mattydv

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I'm just after a bit of constructive criticism to pass on to my brother...

He took this photo yesterday, it's had no editing.

Comments?

 

alexx23

Likes Dirt
Yer im still trying to come to grips with the relationship between DOF and aperture. With prime lenses and close objects/people etc ive been told that its common practice to stop down to f/3.5-5 ish, which provides pretty good results.

As you stated, the more you step back the more the object will be in focus, so I guess its a matter of finding a good combination of bokeh, framing and clarity - i find this difficult with this lens though! I probably need more practice :p. But I will certainly try what you suggested. I will try like 200 ISO at f/3 slightly moved back from the object in focus.

Thanks man!
Another thing to consider is that the more distance between you and the subject, the higher the chance of it being not able to focus sharply. I say this completely out of personal experience, but when i shoot with my 50mm f/1.8, you need to be a half body shot or closer if you are going to be shooting at f/1.8 . Like i said, this is just my experience. And i only ever shoot at f/1.8, cause thats what the nifty fifty is all about for me. And the bokeh is totz sexy, shoot at f/2.5 and you loose the sexyness.


This is just my thoughts after a few boags reds..
 

rabatt

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Comments?
I want to ride that!


Thanks elbo, next time I'm in the city I'll try a few other things, I have an idea for a shot but I need a rider, and get all the set up dialed first, and work out how to set up/pack up extremely fast.

For those about to rock, I did shoot a couple landscape but there was a really bright sign that to me, ruined it, I may post it up, I tried a few things to darken the sign but it was super obvious what I'd done
 

Sam91

Likes Bikes
Very nice composition. How long was the exposure?


I do a fair amount of urban design / architecture / landscape architecture photography for work so I think I need something that provides speed and clarity.
NeBoS do you work in a firm? and whats your profession?

I'm currently studying architecture, so I have been doing a bit of investigation/ research into what lense setup I should be looking for. An ultrawide is definately the way to for architectural work due to the importance of context as you would already no. The only issue will be managing distortion with your vertical and horizontal lines, but that can be easily done :D If your shooting low light, then the 11-16 tokina will be great, however the sigma is still an option with a tripod, it al depends on your time I guess. Then again, if your highlighting details then a bit of zoom can go along way, as you will most likely want little distortion, again it all depends on what your shooting :)

Ango, what do you find dissapointing about your 10-20 siggy?
 

AngoXC

Wheel size expert
Ango, what do you find dissapointing about your 10-20 siggy?
I have the older f/4-5.6 version of the Sigma 10-20. It's a good copy on the whole - some corner sharpness loss between 12mm and 20mm, even when stopped down but for the price I paid, it's an excellent lens.

Constant 2.8 certainly has its appeals also (not quite as necessary on a lens used for landscape photography) but what really appeals to me in the Tokina is its build. It really is exceptional. It feels like a professional lens.
 

JSPhoto

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I can come in for the constant f/3.5 10-20 Sigma, It feels precisely the same as angos excluding the larger filter 82mm vs 77mm, the constant aperture is nice considering the minimal zoom, I personally have no had any problems with the lens, I love it, works super well!
 

Ben-e

Captain Critter!
Cheers mate :) 30 seconds

I purchased mine new for $1800 so $700 is quite a bargain! Infact, I think the Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 can be had around that price.

It is an absolutely exceptional lens - fast, sharp, superb bokeh and exceptional colour rendition and contrast. The VRII offers an improvement on the light fall off issue that the VRI suffered from - an annomoly that you'd only pick up using a Full Frame FX body (since the smaller image circle of the DX 'crops' the outer part of the frame where the fall off/vignette occurs). The Nano-crystal coating is another benefit but is mainly there to control flare - an issue I've never had with the VR. In short, on a DX body, the VR is a great buy!

Cheaper alternatives can be found in the form of the older 80-200 f/2.8 - this lens operates off the camera's in-built focus drive motor so it's a little slower but is just as good (if not better in some optical respects) as the 70-200 f/2.8 VR. The last one I'll point out is the Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 - a great lens all round but it lacks the build and the performance @ f/2.8 as the Nikkors. For the price however, you can't go wrong.

I have the the Ai 50mm f/1.2, the AF 50mm f/1.4D, the AF 50mm f/1.8D and the Ai 50mm f/2 and of the four, the 1.4 is by far my favorite. My housemate has the 55 f/3.5 Macro which he bought for $35 but we won't go there. Haven't used the Sigma personally on Nikon but on Canon, it's fantastic. Likewise, haven't had much to do with the AF-S lens as it won't mount on my film gear (where as the above four will). Just a few notes;

  • The Sig and the AF-S version have built-in focus motors and will therefore focus faster and quieter. However, given this is a portrait lens, focus speed probably isn't as important as image quality.
  • The Sig and the AF-D I think have the best IQ, that is, bokeh, contrast, colour and the likes. The Sig and the AF-S however, perform better @ 1.4.
  • The Sig is a BIG lens - the AF-D fits easily into my kit bag/pocket. The AF-S is a little larger due to the AF motor but still is relatively compact.
  • The AF-D won for me in the end purely from a price perspective - I got mine new and shipped for $280 from Digital Rev. The Sigma is pretty awesome but I wasn't overly happy with the build or the size and it's optical benefits over the 1.4D didn't justify the price jump in my mind. That and I couldn't use it with my Nikkormat :p

For landscape/architecture however, you probably want something wider though. 50mm on a DX isn't overly wide - in fact it's bordering on telephoto!

The Aforementioned Tokina is an outstanding lens - wish it existed when I bought my Sigma 10-20...

Hope that helps man!
Yer $700.00 for the VRI, but in 'usable' condition whatever that means??

Are you using a full frame Nikon? Yer, one of the main disadvantages of owning a Nikon DX body im finding, is that all of Nikons best lenses are made for FX, so as you mentioned there is often some vignetting, although from what I understand there are some FX lenses that work better on a DX body :confused: go figure, but im going to purchase FX lenses from now on as I will probably buy an FX body in the next two years.. (D800 perhaps!!!).

The 80-200 VRII is my dream lens, but I think it may be a little out of my budget at the minute, but as you also mentioned the older model (not VRI) is an absolute weapon!

.

I have seen reasonable examples go for around $600.00, but im unsure as to why the VRI is only about $300.00 more.

Man you got that 50mm AF-D cheap! Have you looked into the G version? Your comments regarding the 50mm 1.4's are pretty much on par with other reviews i have read: Nikon 1.4D better over its whole aperture range, small light and cheap. The Sigma is the total opposite: has a sweet spot, flippin heavy and BIG! The general consensus seems to be that the Sigma is best in class, but the AF-D is overall better in all aspects, so im still unsure haha.

You are right - 50mm is not wide enough, which is why im saving desperately to buy the 14-24mm f/2.8, the undisputed KING of landscape lenses! May have to sell one of my bikes to fund it though!



Thanks again for the helpful comments. On your recommendation I will probably get the AF-D.


No worries mate. Yeah I shoot with a Canon 35mm f/2 so I know what you mean regarding finding the balance between those elements, just takes practice. Its the same for anything though, there is always a trade off where you can generally have 2 of 3 things you might want and you just have to prioritise depending on the type of shot you are trying to get.

Looking through all my photos, most of the time my lens is wide open at f/2 is when its really low light and I'm trying to capture a whole scene that's a couple of metres away, as opposed to a portrait of an individual person. In no way can I take a good portrait, but funnily enough, what I consider to be my best portrait was taken at f/2 :p
You are right - its definitely a compromise! Trying to find the balance is the most difficult thing. However, I have been to a few weddings lately and in low light the 35mm was astonishingly good. I shot in 1.8 mostly without a flash, with a super fast shutter speed and the pics came out better than expected. One thing though was that near all of them were taken about 2-4 meters from the subject.

Both shot with D7000 35mm. This one was at about 2pm from memory, about f/5.
DSC_0313.jpg

Pic below is on dusk, no flash at f/1.8. No editing, but I have reduced resolution to 120, looks way better in RAW.
DSC_0432.jpg



NeBoS do you work in a firm? and whats your profession?

I'm currently studying architecture, so I have been doing a bit of investigation/ research into what lense setup I should be looking for. An ultrawide is definately the way to for architectural work due to the importance of context as you would already no. The only issue will be managing distortion with your vertical and horizontal lines, but that can be easily done :D If your shooting low light, then the 11-16 tokina will be great, however the sigma is still an option with a tripod, it al depends on your time I guess. Then again, if your highlighting details then a bit of zoom can go along way, as you will most likely want little distortion, again it all depends on what your shooting :)

Hey mate, im an landscape architect/urban designer/graphic designer, so the kind of pics I take are quite varied; I typically use the 35mm for site shots where speed and detail is key, so I can shoot around 300 shots in about 40 minutes if need be. Then there are those pics I use for a materials/design catalogue where your ultra-wide lens is needed (I usually borrow one, but I need to get my own!). As you said the trick is getting a wide lens that wont distort, which is why im saving for the 14-24mm.

Although im pretty inexperienced in photography, I reckon that anyone in a design role (particularly arch) should invest in a very good camera and good glass.
 
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IIITAK3NIII

Likes Dirt
Photography has become a new hobbie of mine over the last week and I have had access to my Dad's Canon 20d for the day, Here are some photo's I took. I have much to learn! So some C&C would be mutch appreciated.

Telephone Pole rb.jpgTrain Weights rb.jpgReedes Hut rb.jpg
 

AngoXC

Wheel size expert
Yer $700.00 for the VRI, but in 'usable' condition whatever that means??
Probably means it's a dud. I'd move on. May be a good price but you'll spend double on just getting it back up to speed.

Are you using a full frame Nikon? Yer, one of the main disadvantages of owning a Nikon DX body im finding, is that all of Nikons best lenses are made for FX, so as you mentioned there is often some vignetting, although from what I understand there are some FX lenses that work better on a DX body :confused: go figure, but im going to purchase FX lenses from now on as I will probably buy an FX body in the next two years.. (D800 perhaps!!!).
I'm actually still using DX in the form of a D300s. I have the money sitting in my account for a D3s however given the situation in Japan, I'm going to wait till a) prices stabilize or b) wait till the illusive D4. No hurry.

FX glass isn't necessarily 'better' than DX - if you buy a good DX lens like the 12-24 or the 17-55, the lens is as every bit as good as an FX equivalent but it's a large investment for a piece of kit that will suddenly become useless should you upgrade to FX. This is the main reason people opt for non-DX glass as a matter of course, just in case.

The vignetting on the 70-200 f/2.8 VR is only subtle on FX - to the uninformed, you wouldn't even know it were there. Shoot wide open at the sky however and it becomes more apparent. As I said before, because the DX image circle is smaller than that of FX, you're effectively cropping all the corner and edge anomalies that would otherwise be visible in the FX frame. This is the reason why FX glass typically performs better on a DX body.

The 70-200 VRII is my dream lens, but I think it may be a little out of my budget at the minute, but as you also mentioned the older model (not VRI) is an absolute weapon!
Both are exceptional.



For a good copy of this lens, expect to pay upwards of $1200.

I have seen reasonable examples go for around $600.00, but im unsure as to why the VRI is only about $300.00 more.
Again, it's going to depend on condition. The 70-200 f/2.8 obviously benefits from an internal 'AF-S' focus motor in addition to VR which is something the 80-200 f/2.8 lacks. The 80-200 f/2.8 is also a much older lens which explains much of the price difference.

The prices you're quoting seem very low - I'd be aiming to inspect all these examples if possible as I have my doubts as to their condition. I may be able to source a 80-200 f/2.8D for you that a mate purchased and now doesn't need. Exterior is pretty banged up but the glass is all flawless (he replaced the front element).

Otherwise, the 80-200 f/2.8 can be had brand new for ~1200.

There is an AF-S variation of the 80-200 f/2.8 - this is an exceptional lens, abeit a rare one. Price can still be upwards of $1500 for a 'used' condtion example.

Whilst the AF-D and AF-S 80-200 f/2.8 lenses are excellent in their own right, I find the addition of VR on the 70-200 f/2.8 indispensable. Obviously the 70-200 f/2.8 VR II is a whole new level of awesome but in the mean time, the VR will suffice perfectly.

Good luck!
 

TWChikn

Likes Dirt
Right - I hae to take some pictures of some people soon.
They don't hae to be amazing just so long as their decent and not mugshotish.

I'll be using a D90 with either an 85mm 1.4G or 50mm 1.8D.

I won't hae my flash with me so needless to say the 1.4 is the preferred option. Only problem is that with such a shallow DOF I'm haing incredibly difficult getting anything focussed at 1.4. Any tips without increasing the number too much?
 

wazza2282

Likes Dirt
Right - I hae to take some pictures of some people soon.
They don't hae to be amazing just so long as their decent and not mugshotish.

I'll be using a D90 with either an 85mm 1.4G or 50mm 1.8D.

I won't hae my flash with me so needless to say the 1.4 is the preferred option. Only problem is that with such a shallow DOF I'm haing incredibly difficult getting anything focussed at 1.4. Any tips without increasing the number too much?
Is you V button broken?? lol
More details, is it a well lit area. What is your ISO and shutter??

By the point about no flash, i take it you think you need it. And not using means your shutter is so low to compensate the light, which is resulting in miss focused images. You only option (if this is the case) to upper your ISO and speed your Shutter to reduced motion blur and miss focus.

more details though.
 

TWChikn

Likes Dirt
Is you V button broken?? lol
More details, is it a well lit area. What is your ISO and shutter??

By the point about no flash, i take it you think you need it. And not using means your shutter is so low to compensate the light, which is resulting in miss focused images. You only option (if this is the case) to upper your ISO and speed your Shutter to reduced motion blur and miss focus.

more details though.

hehe, yeah... that button isn't working... :S But spell check usually fixes it for me.

I hae this problem whenever I've used it. I'll run it in aperture mode with ISO about 200, shutter aries.
For the actual shoot it'll be both indoors and out and so there'll be quite large differences in light hence me wanting a way to be able to use 1.4 if I need to.

Edit: The problem's not shutter speed being too low and getting blur but haing a too shallow depth of field that it's hard to pinpoint focus
 
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