Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

Toff

Toff

Likes Dirt
frenchman said:
Hey guys,
Just picked up some car audio off a mate and figured I may as well upgrade the speakers whilst I'm at it. Problem is I have nfi what I need in order to get a half decent sound quality.
I've got a Pioneer DEH P8950bt headunit and a 300w gm - 3200t amp.

The setup I'm currently running is a 6" in each of the rear doors and 2 stock 3.5" / 4" speakers in the dash. It's a 20 yo dual cab ute so any sound insulation has degraded to nothing. Ideally I'd like to keep the 6" rear and 4" front just for ease of swapping out the speakers. What exactly should be looking for in regards to speaker selection? I'm thinking around $100 - $200 for everything new or second hand (if it's a viable option) I'm not going for loudness but just something that will sound decent and drown out the noise of a diesel pig screaming it's tits off. Am I right in saying the 2 and 3 way speakers are if I don't want to bother with a tweeter setup? Is there a chainreaction equivalent for car audio at all?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
2 and 3 way systems are simply component systems, each driver is separate and mounted in a different position (as opposed to most standard cart speakers which are coaxials ie. they have the tweeter mounted on top of the mid-bass driver). 2 way means you have a mid-bass driver (6.5", 5.25", 4" or whatever else) and a tweeter, 3 way just adds an extra, slightly smaller mid-bass driver (usually goes 6.5", then 4" or 3" and then the tweeter, usually a 1" driver).

Coaxial speaker:



Component (2 way) system:




For your price range I'd stick with coax systems, they're generally cheaper and will be easier to install since it's all in the one mounting area.



The Chainreaction equivalent would probably be Sonicelectronix as was mentioned to be a while back, unfortunately they don't do free shipping on orders over $x like Chainreaction so postage can get a bit expensive. Might also try Ryda as they're in Aus, prices are higher though.


On a similar note, anyone after a mono block amp? Got an Alpine MRP-M1000 I'd like to get rid of..
 
sockman

sockman

Likes Bikes and Dirt
So I went out and bought a new chain and sprockets for my bike. Took the old bits off... Next thing I know my bike is in about 20 pieces. Really surprised the bike hasnt killed me yet judging by the state it was in :eek: Most of the bearings were grease free... pivot was dry as a bone. Thank god I picked the ball up on this one!!

Just last week a casual oil change turned into a top end rebuild!

I think I love tinkering too much!
 
T

TWChikn

Likes Dirt
Not much compared to what you guys are fiddling with, but tomorrow I want to change the car audio.

It's in a daweoo lanos. Only 2 of the 4 speakers are working at the moment so I figured I'd see if I could pull them out and replace eerything with the speakers (and head unit if I can figure it out) I pulled out of an old audi.

So, any advice? Things I should remember/check? Any tips you might have would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.
 
Toff

Toff

Likes Dirt
TWChikn said:
Not much compared to what you guys are fiddling with, but tomorrow I want to change the car audio.

It's in a daweoo lanos. Only 2 of the 4 speakers are working at the moment so I figured I'd see if I could pull them out and replace eerything with the speakers (and head unit if I can figure it out) I pulled out of an old audi.

So, any advice? Things I should remember/check? Any tips you might have would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.
Click to expand...
When you pull the old speakers out, it'd be worth checking for continuity to make sure it's not a broken speaker wire that's caused the dropout. Make sure the speakers are the same mounting size, have the same spacing for the mounting screws and that they're the same mounting depth. If the ones you're putting in are deeper, measure the holes to make sure they won't foul on anything (if they're in the doors, make sure the windows are down when you measure for depth, otherwise when you wind them down it can foul).

Before you start on the head unit make sure that they're the same size (most are a single DIN size, but some oem units have odd sizes). If you're lucky, the wiring loom will be the same, if not you'll have to identify each wire and splice the new head units loom into the existing wires. Most of the loom will be relatively obvious, black wire is the ground, yellow is usually positive and red is usually switched power (ie. sends power when the ignition terminal is in either the acc or on position). The speaker wires should be obvious, and assuming they haven't been spliced already they should be the same colour as the ones at the speaker ends. I'd recommend trying to find the wiring diagrams of both units if you're not sure what any of the wires do.

Probably goes without saying, but make sure you disconnect the battery before you start cutting any wires.
 
Venciferus

Venciferus

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Nope...





My old man is wrapped with it! Got it for a good price, it's in pretty much mint condition and it has quite a few RUF goodies that were added back in the 80's by a Porsche racing team mechanic or so the story goes.
 
floody

floody

Wheel size expert
Very, very nice. Seen something quite similar in Hobart (well, black 930 with RUF Speedline wheels).

Would love to own one, one day perhaps (late 70s with plaid trim please!).
 
T

TWChikn

Likes Dirt
Toff said:
When you pull the old speakers out, it'd be worth checking for continuity to make sure it's not a broken speaker wire that's caused the dropout. Make sure the speakers are the same mounting size, have the same spacing for the mounting screws and that they're the same mounting depth. If the ones you're putting in are deeper, measure the holes to make sure they won't foul on anything (if they're in the doors, make sure the windows are down when you measure for depth, otherwise when you wind them down it can foul).

Before you start on the head unit make sure that they're the same size (most are a single DIN size, but some oem units have odd sizes). If you're lucky, the wiring loom will be the same, if not you'll have to identify each wire and splice the new head units loom into the existing wires. Most of the loom will be relatively obvious, black wire is the ground, yellow is usually positive and red is usually switched power (ie. sends power when the ignition terminal is in either the acc or on position). The speaker wires should be obvious, and assuming they haven't been spliced already they should be the same colour as the ones at the speaker ends. I'd recommend trying to find the wiring diagrams of both units if you're not sure what any of the wires do.

Probably goes without saying, but make sure you disconnect the battery before you start cutting any wires.
Click to expand...
Brilliant. Thanks.

I successfully swapped the head units and some speakers howeer now the car won't start.
All the electrics are fine and the batteries alright too but nothing's happening when I go to start it.

A light I think is probably an immobiliser light is flashing.

Any ideas on how to fix this?
 
Toff

Toff

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TWChikn said:
Brilliant. Thanks.

I successfully swapped the head units and some speakers howeer now the car won't start.
All the electrics are fine and the batteries alright too but nothing's happening when I go to start it.

A light I think is probably an immobiliser light is flashing.

Any ideas on how to fix this?
Click to expand...
I don't know for sure, but you may have tripped some anti-theft device when you disconnected the battery (A potential thief will disconnect the battery in order to kill the alarm so they can disable the alarm, reconnect the battery and drive away). I'm out of my depth here, you'd be better off consulting an auto-electrician or possibly the owners/ workshop manual assuming the immobiliser is an oem unit.
 
dog boy

dog boy

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TWChikn said:
Brilliant. Thanks.

I successfully swapped the head units and some speakers howeer now the car won't start.
All the electrics are fine and the batteries alright too but nothing's happening when I go to start it.

A light I think is probably an immobiliser light is flashing.

Any ideas on how to fix this?
Click to expand...
Is it possible that your previous head unit was part of the immobilizer some how, I know some have a security code you have to enter after connecting the battery. Don't really have any idea just throwing that out there.
 
Ivan

Ivan

Eats Squid
I saw a 944 in Rockhampton last week where the rear window had been removed and that back converted into a ute.

I tried to see if the guy was wearing a flannelette, but was too slow.
 
Anthiron

Anthiron

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Ivan said:
I saw a 944 in Rockhampton last week where the rear window had been removed and that back converted into a ute.

I tried to see if the guy was wearing a flannelette, but was too slow.
Click to expand...
Yuck ha ha

A company was also doing a stationwagon conversion.

Probobly wont do a blue and white scorcher scheme on the baja but i like the idea. It will most likely be repainted in its current scheme of black and red. Barwork will be black and wheels will stay white.

Nicko
 
3viltoast3r

3viltoast3r

Likes Bikes and Dirt
dog boy said:
Is it possible that your previous head unit was part of the immobilizer some how, I know some have a security code you have to enter after connecting the battery. Don't really have any idea just throwing that out there.
Click to expand...
Some models of my car (Honda civic) have a system like this, and you have to leave the old head unit connected behind the new one in the dash. Luckily mine doesn't :eek:range:
 
T

TWChikn

Likes Dirt
I ended up hunting down the indicator assembly (just behind the steering wheel) and removing fuses until the immobiliser stopped immobilising - seems like a kinda useless idea if it can be bypassed so easily...
 
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