Late model dh bike opinions...

Ideate

Senior Member
Just after some fellow 'burner opinions on the bikes below (or others?). I've edited this thread to be more open ended to attract more discussion.

Cheers :)

Cost: about $2k
Riding: recreational DH, shuttle fun


p4pb9204698.jpg


lapierre dorados.jpg


Scott Gambler.jpg


norco aurum.jpg


trek session.jpg
 
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reptilemadness

Likes Dirt
Lapierre is amazing and the rear end is not 'flexy' at all as you think. I have ridden one for about 5 months now and its just amazing, coming off a 2012 glory the performance was great and the Pendbox system really had advantages in pedalling with no pedal bob. Rear wheel tracked the ground great and always stayed in control.

Im selling mine, fully custom, it is out of your said price range but its in great condition, top spec and fully custom. Not really 5 months old as I've been injured for half the time I've owned it so its near new. Im only selling because of a long time injury which will keep me off it for a long time and its a very regretful sale. http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/showthread.php?285787-2013-Lapierre-DH-Team-Custom

Send me a message and we could work out a price :)
 

Ideate

Senior Member
I thought it'd be a lot easier to blow ~$2k on something decent that was local-ish. Is there a bike buying season when everyone is selling for upgrades?
 

HimynameisMike

Likes Dirt
I've been riding my '14 gambler (with 40's up front) for the last year and a bit. Taken it to whistler, ridden all the local DH spots around melbourne.
If weight is an issue for you, maybe look elsewhere, its on the average side, certainly not a lightweight.
I've tinkered around with the various BB heights and found it does make subtle changes to how it handles.
Definitely a confidence booster for speed. Faster you go, better it feels.
Buying the bike new, it came with a variety of angled headsets, but so far haven't felt the need to play with the factory setting.
Going through the bumpy stuff the bike feels strong. Previous bikes (operator, norco team dh) I've felt the need to go around rough stuff.
With the gambler, I just hit it. The rear suspension has an almost bottomless feel to me.
So far its been a great bike and (fingers crossed) no major issues with build quality.

As for the other two bikes, can't comment personally, never ridden them.
 

Ideate

Senior Member
With the gambler, I just hit it.
Thanks for the feedback :) Sounds sweet.. Not worried about weight. Where'd you buy yours from? Want to sell me yours? :pray2:

I think I'll check out some LBS's today to see if they've got something going cheap by luck but doubt it. There's literally nothing I can find online at the moment.
 

Ideate

Senior Member
It's getting hard waking up to this in the morning beside the bed (especially for the missus lol)..

Photo on 29-11-2014 at 11.53 am.jpg
 

HimynameisMike

Likes Dirt
daamn your certainly on your way to a decent build! Unfortunately 2 grand for my bike would be underselling it a little.

Not sure how risky it is, but might be worth checking out buy/sell on pinkbike. Sometimes they'll have frames willing to ship from overseas (2nd frames, not new.)
 
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SideFX

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I wouldn't need your forks or wheels..? :hat:
Looks like your on your way to a custom build . Id be looking for a 2011 demo frame or up or a 2011 v10 frame and up . Then build your bike around the frame < BB and Post sizing > . If your on a really tight budget look at getting a 9 speed drive train . Second hand Saint or truvativ OCT cranks are bang for buck and look great if pollished and always ask for a BB with the sale . Second hand Chain guides that are 36-40 are always cheaper than 32/36 as people run the smaller sizes now . Brakes are tricky , you really want 4 piston , codes and saint . Only buy as new second hand brakes as breaks i feel only have a two year life span before a rebuild and the rebuild can cost a fortune . Or buy run outs brakes from CRC . Second hand market here is good but always compare the prices to ebay and CRC . If your not sure ask , loads of top people on here with great advice .
 

driftking

Wheel size expert
All good bike however all vastly different in their feel.
Do you have any idea what you want?
 
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Ideate

Senior Member
Thanks, that's all good advice.

I wanted to start from the wheels up. I'm going to use my zee brakes off the 6" wish and buy some cheap xt's from crc to replace them. Frame wise I wanted something dh specific with good geometry.
 
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Ideate

Senior Member
All good bike however all vastly different in their feel.
Do you have any idea what you want?
From bikes top-bottom (plow - bmx feel). I know that's highly subjective but that's how I see them. I've already got a low pivot jib machine so today I came to the conclusion I should lean more towards plow-ability.
 
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driftking

Wheel size expert
From bikes top-bottom (plow - bmx feel). I know that's highly objective but that's how I see them. I've already got a low pivot jib machine so today I came to the conclusion I should lean more towards plow-ability.
Wouldn't put them quite that order personally.

If I was to list them in order of plow to nimble.I have not ridden any of them though this is just from online reading experiences.

Scott
aurum
zerode
Trek -to me this is the closest to 50/50 balance of plow and nimble.
Lapierre

The zerode is a bit of an unknown to me it seems like a well balanced bike but seems to do the plowing and nimble stuff better than other balanced bikes. depending who you talk to so i just threw it in the middle of the list.

yes each has their own suspension that will change there position depending on what the list is for, ie pedaling etc. but as a overall ride that is my list from not riding any of them aha.
 

Ideate

Senior Member
Yeah I suppose. It really is going to be subjective I think but I thought the session from what people have said feels the poppiest (even though it's heavy). I put the zerode at the top because of the rear growth as it goes through its suspension (not good for manuals). But we'll see I suppose. Thanks for joining the conversation, every little bit of perspective helps :)
 

riderseventy7

Likes Dirt
To be honest there isn't a bad bike in that list. Get any of them and you'll be happy.

To let you know where I'm coming from the last bikes that I've owned post 2010 are Nukeproof Scalp, Norco Aurum, Zerode G1, Zerode G2. I currently own the G2, a Santa Cruz Driver 8 and a Spec Enduro.

If you want a bike that excels at plowing its way through the gnar, and accelerating through it, get a Zerode. As well as being exceptionally smooth and quiet through the rough stuff it generates awesome grip through off camber stuff, especially so if you're going to run a Dorado on it, which is how I have mine. It is a bit of a grip monster in general once you've familiarised yourself with it, it took me a few rides to get used to trail braking into corners for eg. It's a little heavier than most, but you only notice that when lifting/ loading it. I don't notice the weight at all while riding it, perhaps because all the weight is centralised between my ankles, or because I am 100kgs anyway. You are correct in saying that they don't mono so well because of the rearward axle path, but that hasn't hindered me on a downhill run. One bonus for your build is that you won't need to get a shifter, derailleur or chainguide as the equivalent parts are included with the frame. Also, I have found both of my Zerodes were incredibly low maintenance compared to other bikes I've owned.

Which brings me to the Aurum. I've owned an Aurum with an Elka Stage 5 shock fitted to it and I gotta say, it had an awesome feeling rear end. Not quite plowy, but it felt like it was glued to the ground. It offered the type of feedback that let you know exactly what the rear wheel was hitting while still feeling buttery smooth. Its high speed stability was impressive as well. The front end felt a bit flip floppy at low speed, but that could have been sorted by steepening the HA with the angleset, but I never got around to trying it. It's hard to describe how a bike feels, but I liked the Aurum a lot. I didn't have the Norco for long but in the time I had it I noticed all these little features the designers thought about that make owning it, working on it or adjusting it a breeze. Although I am a huge Zerode fan, I wouldn't say no to owning an Aurum again in the future.

As for the rest of the list I can only offer you an opinion based on their geo and reports from other people,
The Trek sounds like it is more of a race focused DH machine, made for keeping low and fast while sniping all the race lines. The Scott sounds like it is made to do that as well, but it's ability to do it as well as the Trek has been compromised a little in order to make it more lively and fun for the guy who races a bit but still wants to have fun on it every other weekend.

I don't know anything about the Lapierre.


TL:DR version = Get a Zerode, they're bombproof and the best plow machine of the lot.
 

Ideate

Senior Member
TL:DR version = Get a Zerode, they're bombproof and the best plow machine of the lot.
Cool. Thanks for the insight. I suppose you'd get use to the feeling of the Zerode when lifting over stuff and off drops. I just hate that feeling of a heavy long front end.

The G1 large went to G2 medium didn't they Dragan? Is that why you're saying it's a medium?
 

riderseventy7

Likes Dirt
Cool. Thanks for the insight. I suppose you'd get use to the feeling of the Zerode when lifting over stuff and off drops. I just hate that feeling of a heavy long front end.
You probably won't like the feel of the Scott then, it has a shorter reach than the Norco or Zerode but a longer Front Center with a super slack HA of 62degrees. Of those 3 the Norco has the longest reach and second shortest front end (which explains the high speed stability I mentioned above). I'm not sure what the front centre of the Zerode is because I can't find a wheel base measurement for it, probably because it lengthens so much. But It has a 5mm shorter reach than the Norco, 405mm vs 410mm, and a similar HA, 63.4degrees vs 63.5 for the Aurum, so its front end should be a smidge shorter. I doubt any of their front ends would be physically heavy though.
You do get used to the feel of the Zerode, lifting the front over stuff just requires a change of timing really. And going off drops and jumps is pretty much just the same as any other bike.

The G1 large went to G2 medium didn't they Dragan? Is that why you're saying it's a medium?
I'm 6'3" and around 100kgs, my G1 was a large and it worked fine for me. The G2 is longer and a bit lower and slacker, it does fit me better though.
 
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