29er wheels

k3n!f

leaking out the other end
I've had those same hubs re-laced to 30mm Light Bike Carbon rims with Revo front and supercomp rear ~1600g as my training wheels.
Revos are better with a carbon rim but TBH I just used them because I had a half box of spares lying around that I wanted to use. On the carbon rim they haven't been as noticeably flexy.

I definitely think that the change to carbon rims has been worthwhile, a stiffer wheel accelerates a lot faster as it transfers the force better.

Hmmm I was hoping Light Bike rims with 240's would come out lighter than that. I'm already at 1580g with Notubes Crest rims.

I have never noticed any flex with these rims, even in 29er form. Probably because I'm a light weight.

Maybe I'll put this project on the back burner for a while. I was hoping there was a Euro brand making a 300g 29er rim for a reasonable price.

All my problems would be solved if Notubes would sell the Valor rims after market.

Thanks for your help!
 

Jubas

Likes Dirt
Hmmm I was hoping Light Bike rims with 240's would come out lighter than that. I'm already at 1580g with Notubes Crest rims.
Can also confirm that you won't save a great deal of weight. I'm running LBs with 240s and Super Comps (32 front and rear)
 

r.ayres1

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Sorted...........................................................................:censored:
 
Last edited:

redbruce

Eats Squid
I have a set and they're amazing !!!
The standard Spesh wheels on my Epic are poor (front wheel spends more time being trued than on the bike) and I realise time to upgrade.

Had been sucked in the carbon thing and working out how to afford (eg LB rims in DIY build or sourcing second hand Roval carbon from OS) but came across reviews of this wheelset and thought might be worth more investigation.

Where did you get yours/cost?
 

redbruce

Eats Squid
Interesting article:

http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Debunking_Wheel_Stiffness_3449.html

Do yall think its possible to make a laterally stiff wheel that is radially compliant for a hardtail?
Not with current technology.

"Its not possible to design for comfort other than choosing a wider rim that takes a wider and therefore softer tyre." (quote from Professional Guide to Wheelbuilding by Roger Musson)

Think about the construction of the wheel and the relative role (forces) the individual components play in the system and it becomes obvious.

I used to use a 2.3 high profile tyre on the back of the HT with similar pressure to the (smaller) front. Worked pretty well.
 
Last edited:

Klips

Likes Dirt
Kenif, if you end up selling those crests I know a good home for them. My Open would weigh about as much as your Yeti if I borrow them!
 

Ackland

chats d'élevage
I know of a pretty amazing Tune wheelset that may be up for sale shortly.....

PM if interested...
 

mitchy_

Llama calmer
Anyone have experience with American Classic wide lightening wheels?

Interesting concept (beyond simply wider is better) and good reviews.

http://twentynineinches.com/2014/07/06/american-classic-wide-lightning-29er-wheels-final-review/
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/To-the-Point-Bill-Shook-on-Wheel-Building-and-Wide-Rims.html
Is it the wide lightnings that people report are as soft as butter?

One of the lightweight alloy AC wheel sets I've read on multiple occurrences that they are too light, and bend pretty easily...
 

redbruce

Eats Squid
Is it the wide lightnings that people report are as soft as butter?

One of the lightweight alloy AC wheel sets I've read on multiple occurrences that they are too light, and bend pretty easily...
The AC MTB race wheels have had some negative comment on the forums (earlier road race rims more so). Similarly there has been the odd comment re rim cracking on the all mountain version.

In context however these comments can be found for most rims and from what I have seen are minor in comparison to the positive experiences.

Haven't seen any negative comments re wide lightening yet (apart from the usual AC slow freehub take up), but they are relatively new still. Many tests compare stiffness to carbon rimed wheels.

They have solid construction in that they are 32 spoke and use 14/15 gauge (2.0/1.8/2.0) spokes. The hubs are light (255g rear, 130 gm front).

The rim is light however, at 380gm for a 33mm (29.5 internal) wide 29'er al rim. Twentynineinches has done extended testing (some deliberately aggressive) and reported favorably on durability.
 
Last edited:

Klips

Likes Dirt
I know of a pretty amazing Tune wheelset that may be up for sale shortly.....

PM if interested...
I would love to, but given I know roughly how much they would have cost in the first place I don't think it'd make it past the minister for finance :(
 

k3n!f

leaking out the other end
Kenif, if you end up selling those crests I know a good home for them. My Open would weigh about as much as your Yeti if I borrow them!
Unfortunately my Crest wheels seem to be meeting an untimely end. The drive side spoke holes have started cracking on the rear wheel. I was going to wait six months before some new wheels, now sadly I have no choice.

I highly approve of your Open, I suspect with a new set of wheels and tires you will be well under the Yeti weight!

I know of a pretty amazing Tune wheelset that may be up for sale shortly.....

PM if interested...
PM sent Mr Ackland.
 

Attachments

SDA

Likes Dirt
2 cross vs 3 cross lacing

Can anyone confirm whether 2 cross lacing will be noticeably stiffer (laterally) than 3 cross lacing?

I was ready to order a custom wheelset from an online retailer. I requested the wheelset be laced up with a 2 cross pattern, however they confirmed they will only build them as 3 cross.

I have now looked into buying all the parts online and getting them built up locally with a 2 cross pattern. However the cost will be approx $120 higher.

I had my heart set on 2 cross lacing - but the additional $120 has me questioning whether it is worth it and whether I will notice any difference in stiffness.
 

redbruce

Eats Squid
Can anyone confirm whether 2 cross lacing will be noticeably stiffer (laterally) than 3 cross lacing?

I was ready to order a custom wheelset from an online retailer. I requested the wheelset be laced up with a 2 cross pattern, however they confirmed they will only build them as 3 cross.

I have now looked into buying all the parts online and getting them built up locally with a 2 cross pattern. However the cost will be approx $120 higher.

I had my heart set on 2 cross lacing - but the additional $120 has me questioning whether it is worth it and whether I will notice any difference in stiffness.
There are a number of variables (all are interactive) and affect both lateral and radial stiffness to varying degrees. So its hard to give a definitive answer.

Might pay to read through the link Kenif posted earlier: http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Debunking_Wheel_Stiffness_3449.html

Personally I'd go with the builders recommendation. Not sure why you are so set on a particular lace pattern but all things being equal, there is bugger all weight difference, visually as well.

I've noticed no apparent lateral difference between 2 and 3 cross on road wheels (for 32 or 36 spoke counts) or BMX race wheels (32 spoke).

My wheel building bible (Professional Guide to Wheelbuiding by Roger Musson) states:" ...use a standard lacing pattern (2 cross, 3 cross, 4 cross) and the decision which to use is based solely on the number of spokes in the wheel."

If you go local route, Greg at TWE (http://www.twebikewheels.com.au/) has an enviable reputation in Australia and stands by his product.

In Melbourne, Paul Bryant at Astroboyracer (http://astroboyracer.com.au/) in Collingwood, Daryl at Cycle Science in Mt Waverly have good reputations (no doubt there are more - just speaking from my, or those I ride with experience).

Might be worth contacting Duckmeister on this forum, he has has experience in the wheel building industry.
 
Last edited:

SDA

Likes Dirt
I had noticed ENVE amongst many others run 2 cross - so I started looking into it further.

This article http://www.noxcomposites.com/wheel_building and the paper linked in it suggests 2 cross will be stiffer. But the question is would I notice it?

The build I am going for will already be stiff - DT EX 471 (25mm inner width) rims, 32 spokes (CX Ray or Aerolites) and DT 350 hubs which have wider and higher flanges.
 

pharmaboy

Eats Squid
I had noticed ENVE amongst many others run 2 cross - so I started looking into it further.

This article http://www.noxcomposites.com/wheel_building and the paper linked in it suggests 2 cross will be stiffer. But the question is would I notice it?

The build I am going for will already be stiff - DT EX 471 (25mm inner width) rims, 32 spokes (CX Ray or Aerolites) and DT 350 hubs which have wider and higher flanges.
Gratuitous advice coming....... ;)

You are asking the wrong question. You should be asking what builds the best wheelset and by whom.

I would suggest that you go with whatever a wheel builder that you want to use recommends - this is because he will have built lots in that style and have good experience on what builds up well and has the least returns for retensioning.

If nox recomends 2x, then if you buy a wheel from them, thats what you ask for. If zelvy build 3 x , then order 3x - some like to build 2x on one side and 3 on the other etc.

Frankly it might be worth paying extra and getting it built locally, but not because they can build 2x, but because they might be good wheel builders and care about a local customer - I would however ask their advice on what to build, not tell them what to build
 
Top