Wood chopping and wood burning efficiency

stirk

Burner
This is a question about the best wood chopping setup and technique and how to most efficiently burn that wood to provide heating for your home.

Wood chopping setup

Axe, 1 meter handle, 2kg head, used primarily to cut larger blocks into smaller pieces which will fit in my fireplace or to be smaller logs to get the fire embers going for the big logs, and also to cut some of the softer wood into kindling.

Also have a small hatchet for making kindling. I find this more accurate when chopping very small 2cm square pieces for kindling.

The chopping block is shit, 1 foot high and also 1 foot in diameter, just a left over tree stump which I use but need to replace with something bigger. Need to find a tree lopper who can give me a big block.


Chopping Technique

I let the axe do the work, swing and with little force hit the wood, some wood splits easily, others just bounce the axe away, I try again with the bounce away type hardwood and use more force the second time but if the result is the same, I'll just give up, and save that log for a slow all night burner. (Until I get a mechanical splitter)

Other logs I know I can break but if the first attempt sees the axe stuck half way in I'll need to lift both the axe and the log stuck to the axe and smash back down again a few times to break it. This is hard work!

The small hatchet just rattles away on softwood making kindling, sometimes the first hit on the log gets stuck a few inches in and then I need to pound away by lifting hatchet and log together until I break the splinter away. This is also hard work on a 1 foot high chopping block.

I need my son to grow a little bit more so he can make the kindling!

The burn

My normal technique in the mild winter we get in sunny Springwood is to let the fire die off from bed time and then fire up again when I get home from work at 6pm.

I've found it takes a fair bit of wood to get the whole combustion fireplace roaring again.

Today I fired it up again in the morning with the still hot embers from the night before and kept the fire ticking over all day by adding a log every hour or so, this seemed to be more efficient than letting the fire go out entirely and subsequently letting the fireplace and also the whole house cool down.

Thoughts and feed back welcome.
 

MelbRod

Likes Dirt
Generally slow combustion stoves respond better to a constant heat, rather than flaring up and dieing down. This tends to burn the firebox out. Keep the vents closed back, and chuck a couple of bits in as required.

Also, when the axe gets stuck like that, try turning it over as you pick it up and bring it back down with the axe below the wood as it hits the block. This uses the weight of the wood to help finish the split. You definitely need a higher block though. One foot means the axe is already headed for your legs as it hits the wood. Scary.
 

moorey

call me Mia
Never seen or used. I'm saying 'no' though.
My fire runs 24/7 on low, 6 months of the year. It's very efficient, virtually no smoke, only needs a clean out 2x a year, and 10 years on, only just had its first flu clean. That said, if I knew then what I knew now, about how much Co2 it still released, I wooda sprung for a big arse gas bottle and central heating.
 

stirk

Burner
Swing THROUGH the wood, Felix! Do I have to tell you EVERYTHING?
Felix has no chopping block at all?!

Generally slow combustion stoves respond better to a constant heat, rather than flaring up and dieing down. This tends to burn the firebox out. Keep the vents closed back, and chuck a couple of bits in as required.

Also, when the axe gets stuck like that, try turning it over as you pick it up and bring it back down with the axe below the wood as it hits the block. This uses the weight of the wood to help finish the split. You definitely need a higher block though. One foot means the axe is already headed for your legs as it hits the wood. Scary.
It's my first winter with such a fireplace and I think I agree, try and keep it humming along slowly rather than stop start.

Nice idea regarding turning the axe around the other way, I'll might try that, although I have reservations about what the back end of the axe head will do to the chopping block. I think it would chew it up a little.

Bring the axe head down on an anvil perhaps, but that would munt the axe head.

Hydraulic splitter is the answer!
 

moorey

call me Mia
Felix has no chopping block at all?!
out on site? Bitch, please.



It's my first winter with such a fireplace and I think I agree, try and keep it humming along slowly rather than stop start.

Nice idea regarding turning the axe around the other way, I'll might try that, although I have reservations about what the back end of the axe head will do to the chopping block. I think it would chew it up a little.

Bring the axe head down on an anvil perhaps, but that would munt the axe head.

Hydraulic splitter is the answer!
Townie.
 

stirk

Burner
Stirk, tl,dr. What was the question again?
Is that how you mark your students essays?

what about that lever-axe thingy for choppin wood? Any good?
Might work on American soft pine wood, for Aussie hardwood I'd say not looking at the axe head.

Never seen or used. I'm saying 'no' though.
My fire runs 24/7 on low, 6 months of the year. It's very efficient, virtually no smoke, only needs a clean out 2x a year, and 10 years on, only just had its first flu clean. That said, if I knew then what I knew now, about how much Co2 it still released, I wooda sprung for a big arse gas bottle and central heating.
Interesting debate, wood heating versus gas or electrical, any numbers on what is the most efficient over time?

Outside of a vegans gut, 'natural gas' takes time and vast resources to be created, is it more efficient than a tree per given BTU?
 

moorey

call me Mia
Is that how you mark your students essays?



Might work on American soft pine wood, for Aussie hardwood I'd say not looking at the axe head.



Interesting debate, wood heating versus gas or electrical, any numbers on what is the most efficient over time?

Outside of a vegans gut, 'natural gas' takes time and vast resources to be created, is it more efficient than a tree per given BTU?
1. My students are 13-17, but can't write.
2. Yep.
3. Going on what Dr Karl has been saying lately, I feel bad running a fire as my only heating in Ballarat climate, but its ludicrously efficient, heats a 27sq house, and only costs me a few hours a month and chainsaw fuel. Can't tell you about btu's but this thing, on low, with fan on lowest, pumps out phenomenal heat.
 

stirk

Burner
1. My students are 13-17, but can't write.
2. Yep.
3. Going on what Dr Karl has been saying lately, I feel bad running a fire as my only heating in Ballarat climate, but its ludicrously efficient, heats a 27sq house, and only costs me a few hours a month and chainsaw fuel. Can't tell you about btu's but this thing, on low, with fan on lowest, pumps out phenomenal heat.
Your slow combustion fireplace has a fan? Mine is behind the times!

Mine has front vents on the front edges and tiles on the side walls which are cool to touch, so inefficient!
 
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