teK--
Eats Squid
Same here 6 months going strong.
Adjustable Seat Posts
- Thread starter outtacontrol
- Start date
hifiandmtb
Sphincter beanie
The wireless one? Super keen to hear how it goes!
Couple of years on my reverb. No issues.
Keen on a Magura
Hey there KOM, where'd you pick up the Magura post for $350? Seems a decent price, I'm after a 150mm post and tossing up between a Magura, a Transfer or a KS Lev.
Nerf Herder
Wheel size expert
That's an awesome price on the Vyron, what are they local do you know?
We've been sweating on the Lev Circuit ...
Big JD
Wheel size expert
Hey Nerf- if I have a 272 Lev can i change it to 30.9 with a new sleeve?
link1896
Mr Greenfield
Holy old post revival I know.sorry I missed this ...
Firstly the small hole on the i900/i950 / Supernat / Dropzone carts
Note: Self servicing the cartridge on a KS post voids warranty ! The Service Centre isn't even allowed to re-gas or service the cart.
All that said, there is a one way hole at the bottom of the silver cap in one of the many holes. One customer I know has been servicing his post for about 4 years, so well outside of warranty. Essentially with a ball inflator pin and some blue tack he rams the pin on top of the hole and forces air in. Apparently it works
caution: if you are going to disassemble the puppy ... please remember the internals are under pressure ... wear eye protection and don't lean over the puppy and get all the contents over your face and have the end cap ping off your glasses
Note: I don't know what the internal pressure is sorry - educated guess is 120 to 150 psi max 200psi (you would really want to pancake the nads at this pressure)
Re: a)
The build up of lube between the seal collar and DU washer is usually the cause of a spongy last inch of so of travel (negative spring) ... basically too much slicko around the DU makes it air tight (particularly when dropping its travel) and traps air in the mast. This is common in the older i900/i950s as the red end cap is sealed ... for Supernats and Dropzones the red end cap now has a blow hole ... although that can get clogged with mud / dust especially if you don't clean it at all.
I previously use to advocate for this
but there are too many minuses for the benefits ... so we now say use a thin smear of Slicko more frequently as opposed to packing it as shown.
The cost of a light lube is you will need to reapply more often (monthly or after wet rides) ... but more importantly, you will need to become confident it removing the cart and cleaning out the mast of accumulated crap (usually mud or fine dust) This is not hard and the red end cap doesn't need to be removed ... but removing the end cap just allows for a more thorough clean.
general steps (i900 /i950 / supernatural / dropzone)
i) 15mm socket removes the blue lock nut and compression washer
ii) unwind the red seal collar
iii) at the saddle clamp ... firmly pull so that the stanchion pulls out and knocks the silver DU out of the mast
iv) if you ride in wet conditions welcome to the wonderful world of moldy odors
- check the mast internals and using a bottle brush or lint free rag clean it out as best you can
- focus on the guide rod channels to remove any accumulated blockage what can slow or affect guide rods and the return speed of the post.
worse case ... you have a carbon frame and galvanic processes have started to occur on exposed post (coats all exposed parts inserted in the frame with friction paste) and or regularly remove the post after wet rides of bike wash to ensure frame internals dry out sufficiently to avoid corrosion. (this is for all makes and models of alloy posts)
v) feel the roller bearings for grit and clean as needed
- relube with slicko
vi) looking at the cartridge / guide rods / DU / seal collar
- wipe it down and remove any accumulated gunk
- with a stanley knife extract the brass guide rods
- you can now slide off the DU and seal collar
- wipe down the DU and stanchion ... wipe the seal collar
- for completeness remove the seal using your thumb nail and forefinger ... this takes practice but the seal is pretty robust
- check for wear ... splitting etc
- repack with red carrier with lube and reinstall the seal ... be generous with the slicko here
- Slicko the teflon coat of the DU - reinstall it all and insert into the mast (remember one way roller bearings)
- redo compression washer and nut ... don't forget the black bumper stop
normally takes about 15 to 30 mins
If you keep up the regular relube above and below the seal collar ... you can get away with less regular maintenance, but I recommend always drying your post after wet rides or even bike washes, particularly on carbon rigs it seems.
re: b)
In 80 % of cases all the return speed issues are due to a lack of maintenance where the teflon on the DU has dried out. The next item is accumulated gunk on the guide channels, over tightening of the seat clamp ... and or accumulated gunk in the frame seat tube leading to uneven clamping.
eg If you are getting black streaks on your stanchion then your frame is over clamping on to the mast compressing it on to the stanchion and causing the guide channels to score your stanchion.
But again slicko is the answer ... pop the cart out as above ... and relube the stanchion above and below the DU washer ... you should quickly notice if the Du is tight (it should move freely up and down the stanchion) ... if its sticky, slicko above and below the DU and move it up and down the stanchion in a twisting motion ... don't be shy with the slicko here
whilst the cart if out of the mast ... check the roller bearings the the guide channels. if you can imagine the guide rods have to slide freely up and down these channels so if there is blockage then it will slow the return speeds and create a crunchy action.
As a worse case and you are out of warranty a replacement cart is approx $100 to $120. If in warranty send it into Pushie (info(at)pushie.com.au)
Now ... I'm not sure what preloaded means here soz ... does it mean it would rise better if you sat on the saddle then triggered it ?? but under its on weight it wouldn't raise as fast when triggered ?? Not too sure here as we haven't experienced this ... maybe there is trapped air in the mast and thats helping to over come any stiction (ie, two wrongs make a right type scenario I guess ??)
focusing more on the trigger this time ... maybe there is a slight delay in the trigger versus actuator ?? * grasping. What I have seen is that the trigger is only slowly moving the actuator ... or the actuator button is sticking slightly causing slower responses ... or stopping the post locking. This doesn't seem to be your problem sorry ... but to clean the actuator action
i) remove the saddle and saddle hardware
ii) remove the red actuator lever (i900 /i950 / supernatural / dropzone) ...
-in the i900 / dropzone ... there is a well where a silver button or bud is located ... this often collects mud or fine dust ... with either a very small bottle brush or a tooth brush with long bristles ... clean it out.
- for the Supernat / i950 the well is just slightly smaller, but similarly clean the puppy
- I jam slicko in there in an attempt to slow down the accumulation of crap or better displace some of the crap with slicko ... but you will all know the slicko will eventually be overwhelmed to converted to crap /// so pluses and minuses here
re: popped DU
Yep, with the DU out of position, air can release easier out the top of the post as there is more space ... compared to the bottom and out the red end cap (see above comments)
to help visualise ... with the cartridge in the mast ... and the guide rods in the guide channels ... you can see that you effectively have a plunger. as you drop the cart down its travel ... and with lube filling any cavities ... the mast becomes pressurised as the plunger drops reducing the available space so the air pressure builds up and starts pushing up on the bottom of the cart ... creating compression, stopping the cart from using its full travel and or creating a spongy action in the last inch or so of travel.
so too much lube and the air can't get out ... not enough lube, then the seals and DU ware prematurely and lets mud and crap get in the mast and or dries out the teflon coating of the DU.
(edit: for the LEVs this is sometimes why you lose your red KS cap at the remote housing ... the air escapes out the actuator well and pops out the cap)
So in short to answer your question ... depending on how easy air can escape the mast ... it can suffer from trapped air which then ramps up and can stop the post getting full travel
- possible solution. we have stock of the new red end caps with the air hole in it ... rrp is $14 (we have a special tool to install these, but you can use a point spanner or whatever they are called that fits into the holes ... or I have also seen people use needle nose or round nose pliers (note this tends to damage the guide holes as the alloy is pretty soft) use caution here.
Lastly re: loose saddle head clamp.
Yep the saddle heads screw in for all the models above ... again we have a specific tool that is model specific to tighten the heads ... but with a dropzone / i900 you can use big arse adjustable wrench on either side of the saddle clamp head. (beware sometimes this can score the sides of the clamp head)
Bit harder with the Supernat and pretty much in 100% of cases where we didn't use the specific tool, we've scored the head clamp, which is fracking annoying and costly ... so user beware.
We use red loctite ... out of the factory KS uses an epoxy on the threads which normally requires heat and a mutha lever to get it loose ... so pretty surprised you've worked this loose, but I guess it was an awesome binner :laugh:
We are happy to sell spares for your KS posts direct as part of our after sale service and to reduce lost trail time! or feel free to order via your fav LBS.
We can also do a basic service as above for about $35 plus postage and parts if needed (normally no consumables other then slicko which is inclusive).
sorry for the novel ... feel free to email me if you really want to nerd it up and or if I haven't responded to your questions on here soon enough :wave:
i900 air pressure. 120 psi results in a less then stellar bare cartridge return, between the quad rings crush and the sheering of oil thru the valve, its slow and if only 50mm down, struggles, so adding the lower post, DU, etc is going to add significant drag. Using 2.5wt oil.
I'm thinking 200 psi or more, which is a challenge to get in with the pin hole port idea. Took me a while to work out how this arrangement works. Tiny hole behind the smaller o ring.
I was using compressed air from an air compressor and a ball inflation needle with heat shrink over it.
For everyone playing at home, it's the hole at the 11 clock position with a TINY hole in the end. No idea how they managed to mass produce a part with a 0.2mm holes machined in it.
Nerf Herder
Wheel size expert
unfortunately no ... 27.2 doesn't share any common parts with the larger diameter posts ... you can share bits with other 27.2 posts (Eten, Cuxi) ... but not upwards in sizes.
I think I have an old 30.9 LEV in the workshop if you are budget constrained ... Its pretty ugly (anno is eatten away in large sections ... but it seems to be working alright with a new cart and bearings). I was going to use it on a frankenstein build I'm playing with when I'm really bored ... email alan@pushie.com.au if you want pictures and a price.
@Link^^^
at the top of its travel I'd aim for 190psi ... that translates to around 220- ish psi at the bottom of its travel ... max psi for a LEV is 250psi so would be similar for the DZ and SR carts ... which I think is at the top of its travel but not 100% certain sorry ... I'll ask one day.
presume you've seen the detailed thread in MTBR ???
I haven't tried the self build as we aren't allowed (Voids warranty) and we dont need to as we are supplied new carts ... but a couple of friends have tried it and all use the ball needle ... thinking out loud ... maybe some blu tack ... might pack in around the needle and hole and keep some of the back pressure from leaking out as you pump ???
link1896
Mr Greenfield
Thanks Al, found the mtbr thread in the wee hours of this morning when I couldn't sleep. I'm using a ball needle, hard to pump and hold the needle on at the same time. Tricky arrangement without a Schrader valve.
Think I'm gonna mod one of my old scuba regulators for 200psi and give it a crack. The cartridge is common to other post from back then, seems some on mtbr have gone to 250psi for snappy return.
I got it from Bike Discount.de
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/magura-vyron-elect-seatpost-150mm-524197
With a 10% off code it just covered the shipping cost, so $352 delivered. I was told that that they were not available locally since the initial batch that came out in November 2016 were sold, they were expecting more stock in March.
Still hasn't arrived so no reports yet.
crank1979
Likes Bikes and Dirt
What will be the price on a ø31.6mm, 150mm Lev Circuit and how long until they are available?
I have 3 bikes with the same seat post diameter and have been waiting for this or the Magura Vyron. Is the activation quicker than the Vyron?
Magura Vyron arrived today, it's charging on my desk now.
First impressions are that it is nicely made, but the remote is pretty poxy - small buttons and for some reason there is three buttons? Apparently this has something to do with another wireless product, but it really just makes the dropper button too small. It's also quite heavy, I'll weigh it when I get home; perhaps I'm not used to the weight of droppers.
I probably won't get out for a ride until the weekend though.
First impressions are that it is nicely made, but the remote is pretty poxy - small buttons and for some reason there is three buttons? Apparently this has something to do with another wireless product, but it really just makes the dropper button too small. It's also quite heavy, I'll weigh it when I get home; perhaps I'm not used to the weight of droppers.
I probably won't get out for a ride until the weekend though.
hifiandmtb
Sphincter beanie
Extra buttons for future support of other stuff:
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/ride-report-magura-vyron-elect-wireless-dropper-post-2016.html
And yeah, the size of the button *does* suck, as far as I can tell.
Keen to get more updates from you!
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/ride-report-magura-vyron-elect-wireless-dropper-post-2016.html
And yeah, the size of the button *does* suck, as far as I can tell.
Keen to get more updates from you!
They should've gone with voice activation. Would be so much fun messing with another riders seatpost mid ride.Extra buttons for future support of other stuff:
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/ride-report-magura-vyron-elect-wireless-dropper-post-2016.html
And yeah, the size of the button *does* suck, as far as I can tell.
Keen to get more updates from you!
hifiandmtb
Sphincter beanie
It's funny how some applications of wireless are seen as crazy.
It's not like wireless control of devices hasn't been around for many decades...
It's not like wireless control of devices hasn't been around for many decades...
I don't really have an issue with the whole wireless thing, but I can't see the point of taking a product like this to market without a dedicated remote button. It's not like Magura is a brand that bases its image on price point, so I can't see why they think it's a good idea to have a 'universal' remote that works for a product that most users won't own. Given that you have to 'bind' the remote to the post anyway, I would have thought this was a good opportunity for them to sell the combined remote unit as an upgrade to those who wanted it.
Anyway, I haven't used it yet so it's all speculation.
Anyway, I haven't used it yet so it's all speculation.
LPG
likes thicc birds
Put a Brand X Ascend dropper post on my Stache 7. It was my first dropper. Installation was pretty painless and it seems to be working well. Went for the first ride Friday. I was happy to have the seat at full proper height for sustained pedalling instead of the compromised height. Dropping the seat the full 120mm travel felt like a lot more than I expected. My rigid seatpost didn't even drop that far as I hadn't cut it down from the 400mm it came as. Aside from mixing up my down shifter on the right hand and my dropper post it didn't take too long to get used to after prettymuch forcing myself to use it as often as possible so it becomes natural. I just need to start to get a feel for how much to drop the seat for different situations.
The best part was coming up to a rocky spot I made a split decision to try and jump over it all and was able to do it with ease by sucking up the back wheel that would otherwise not clear. In the spot I usually do an unweighted manual over (back wheel kind of skips over the rocks but is unweighted). I could never get enough speed to clear the rocks to the landing but just being able to suck up the back wheel made all the difference.
The best part was coming up to a rocky spot I made a split decision to try and jump over it all and was able to do it with ease by sucking up the back wheel that would otherwise not clear. In the spot I usually do an unweighted manual over (back wheel kind of skips over the rocks but is unweighted). I could never get enough speed to clear the rocks to the landing but just being able to suck up the back wheel made all the difference.