Is it possible to convert a Giant ATX transmission?

Hi,
as title says.
I have returned into cycling after 20 years of break. Got myself a Giant ATX which has 3x8 drivetrain. It is inconvenient for my as in mountains i only ever use 22t chain ring, while for cruising along the beach I only use 32 and 42 chain rings.
SO my idea is to change it to 2x8 or even 2x10.
Please share your knowledge with me on this one, since local bike shops only prefer to sell me whole group set for 500-600 AUD, which is almost matching the price i've paid for the whole bike?

In my understanding 2x8 should be done like this: I remove 32 and 42 chain rings and buy myself a new chain ring 36 or 38t with correct BCD(104 in my case). Also remove stock front derailleur(tourney) for lets say 2 speed Deore. Also change shifter for 2sp unit. In the rear I do not need to change anything(I fill fine with 22t front x 36t rear wright now on any steep hill)
In my understanding 2x10 should be done like this: I do all of the above, but replace rear cassette for Deore or similar 10 sp(will it wit without any modification? how to get if it will or will not?), replace rear derailleur with matching 10sp unit. Also change shifter for matching 10 sp unit.

Please advice me the components if you can and if I am right on this one? Trying to keep this mod on a budget.
Thank you for your time.
 

born-again-biker

Is looking for a 16" bar
I might be able to help you out with some used 2×10 bits I took off my Giant.
I have a 10 speed cassette, derailleurs, a couple of chainrings etc....
(You might need a different crankset to make it work?)

...and maybe a wider rear hub?

(Tapping fingers & whistling to myself while I wait for The Duckmeister to come & solve these questions...)

Sent from my LG-H870DS using Tapatalk
 

stirk

Burner
Why is it inconvenient to use a 3x8 drive train?

Most of the time you are riding in the middle ring and only use the granny for long uphill grinds and the big ring for fast downhill.

A 2x10 is a pain in the arse as you constantly change the front cogs to get into the right cadence so I'd advise against that.

Keep the 3x you have and spend the money on hydro brakes, that would be the biggest improvement you could make to your riding pleasure.

Then save some coin and go 1x10 as it's all you need really, cheap too online and some local burners will likely help wrench if you need help and ask nicely.
 

moorey

call me Mia
8/9/10/11sp Shimano hub bodies all the same.If the current rings and cranks are ok, they will be fine with a 9 or 10sp chain.

Edit. It’s new? I was thinking an ooold atx. Lack of specs on that link make it hard to know what we’re dealing with.
 
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moorey

call me Mia
Different links list different cranks. 3 searches, 3 different answers. What have you got there, cobs?
 

moorey

call me Mia
EDDD1E58-80EF-4A1F-877F-0748BBACE7D3.jpeg
Can’t find the BCD of these on the Googles, unfortunately. Are you able to measure it thusly? If 104/64, I’ll have some rings to donate.
 

born-again-biker

Is looking for a 16" bar
...A 2x10 is a pain in the arse as you constantly change the front cogs to get into the right cadence so I'd advise against that.

Keep the 3x you have and spend the money on hydro brakes, that would be the biggest improvement you could make to your riding pleasure...
He's right - 2x is a pain.
But my offer still stands just in case it helps you out...

Sent from my LG-H870DS using Tapatalk
 

guitar1234

Likes Dirt
If it's a low level giant, odds are the chainrings are riveted together and use a sort of lockring assembly to hold themselves to the crank arm.
Basically you won't be able to change the chainrings without using another set of cranks, which in itself is probably over-capitalising for your bike.
 

flamin'trek

Likes Bikes and Dirt
If you are sold on 2x it is entirely possible to use a 3x shifter and derailleur on it. Admittedly with the stock sized rings (2 largest), but I reset the limit screws and adjusted the shifter to use position 1-2 for chainrings 2-3 so I couldn’t undershift and the limit screws stopped it going into ‘3’ on the shifter.
 

mik_git

Likes Bikes and Dirt
ALso since we're talking the lower end of the spectrum and 8sp,its maybe not the best idea to be running granny ring plus running across the whole cassette.
 

RichJS

Likes Dirt
It is inconvenient for my as in mountains i only ever use 22t chain ring, while for cruising along the beach I only use 32 and 42 chain rings.
So, you use the 24t and the 32t and the 42t ... Surely removing a ring would thus be more inconvenient, not less?

I ride 3x8, 1x9, 3x9, 1x10, 2x10 and 1x11 .. I can say that 3x is well underrated for riding both up and down decent hills.

If you want a taste of 1x11 stupidity at a fraction of the price, remove your 42 and 24t rings, front derailler, shifter. Get a cheap chain guide and a sunrace 8sp 11-40t cassette to replace your 11-34. (I'm assuming that Acera rear mech can stretch to 40t or be modded easily.)

... Then realise that while 32/40 is only a slightly higher than your previous low gear of 24/34, your new top gear of 32/11 doesn't cut it when you actually want to pedal 35km/h+ for more than a few seconds ... After that, consider buying a bigger chain ring - but how big is too big for the hills you still want to go up? Maybe you'll come to the conclusion that you had all the gears you need with 3x8.
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Stay with 3x, but upgrade to 10 at the back for ultimate versatility. This will dictate a new rear derailleur, right shifter (and possibly brake lever; many of Giant's cheaper models use combined shift/brake lever units), and of course cassette and chain. If you're not fussed about everything matching, the front drivetrain hardware doesn't need to be touched. A 10-sp. cassette is the same width as the 8-sp, just packs all the sprockets in closer to make them fit, so will go straight onto your wheel.
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
ALso since we're talking the lower end of the spectrum and 8sp,its maybe not the best idea to be running granny ring plus running across the whole cassette.
There's nothing fundamentally damaging about doing that, it's just a bit rough & noisy. Cross-chaining off the big ring is far worse for the running gear because everything is under a lot more tension.
 
Is it really worth all the rooting around to convert this?
But why do you think it is bad? What makes it bad in comparison to higher models, apart from better wheels/drivetrain/fork? What is fundamentally wrong with ATX to say it is not worth upgrading? My plan is to upgrade as my components will fail, however 3x is something what is pissing me off right now. I've described in my first post the reasoning behind this.
 
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