BIKE RACKS AND CARRIERS FOR CARS MEGATHREAD - all questions asked and answered here

Plankosaurus

Spongeplank Dalepantski
SpotX are meant to be good.
https://www.spotxracks.com.au

Most are up around that without the extras.
There was a company on FB few months ago.
Pay $900 now, and in a few months we will deliver your rack.....yeah nah.
Yeah, pass on that deal too.

I think I like the spotx the best to be honest. Does seem like the most rack for your money and wheel hoops would be super solid with them all one piece.

I much prefer the price of the boar, but something about it just doesn't work for me. I'd usually prefer something modular like that but build koala tea just doesn't look as high as the others. It's a big investment and I want it to be the only one I buy.

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ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
Not knocking any of the racks but the SpotX and the Shingleback rely on a U Bolt and piece of bent plate to stabilize the rack, which was the big decider for me.
The SpotX's lazer cut branding and light set was tempting but the stabilization and door clearance was more important to me.

Everyone has different needs.
 

Wake Jake

Eats Squid
Not knocking any of the racks but the SpotX and the Shingleback rely on a U Bolt and piece of bent plate to stabilize the rack, which was the big decider for me.
The SpotX's lazer cut branding and light set was tempting but the stabilization and door clearance was more important to me.

Everyone has different needs.
356964

356966

Couldn't agree more. The Ubolt was the killer for me. Paying that amount of money to rely on a ubolt is very ordinary IMHO. Mitch's rack is superior in terms of function and ease of use.
 
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Plankosaurus

Spongeplank Dalepantski
Not knocking any of the racks but the SpotX and the Shingleback rely on a U Bolt and piece of bent plate to stabilize the rack, which was the big decider for me.
The SpotX's lazer cut branding and light set was tempting but the stabilization and door clearance was more important to me.

Everyone has different needs.
are you talking about how the spotx and shingleback pivot on a bolt and have a pin to hold it in place?

i see what you mean though, the single trail rack does have a lot more engineering in that section. the boar has no pivoting there so id imagine that would be just as solid. also could probably replace the pin with a bolt to eliminate wobble. its all food for thought, i probably wont buy and of them at this rate :p
 

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
Where the 50mm tongue of the rack enters the tow hitch receiver of your vehicle. Both Shingleback and SpotX need one of these U bolt clamps (below) to stop the rack rocking about.

As said, its a pretty agricultural solution for one of the biggest factors on a ~$1400 bike rack.

Potentially with a 5 bike rack, you could have $50k of carbon bikes rocking and smashing themselves together.




356970
 

Plankosaurus

Spongeplank Dalepantski
Where the 50mm tongue of the rack enters the tow hitch receiver of your vehicle. Both Shingleback and SpotX need one of these U bolt clamps (below) to stop the rack rocking about.

As said, its a pretty agricultural solution for one of the biggest factors on a ~$1400 bike rack.

Potentially with a 5 bike rack, you could have $50k of carbon bikes rocking and smashing themselves together.




View attachment 356970
Riiiight, I got it now. So how does the Currie rack do it? I see a bolt out the back, is it a wedge inside the hitch that spreads out stablize it?

This also seems like a better idea, and not super hard to achieve

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moorey

call me Mia
I’m having trouble understanding what’s going on here.
On all of my hitches, I have drilled a hole underneath and welded on a 1/2” nut, with a bolt I tighten to take any wobble out of the coupling.
Is that what we’re talking about here?
 

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
I’m having trouble understanding what’s going on here.
On all of my hitches, I have drilled a hole underneath and welded on a 1/2” nut, with a bolt I tighten to take any wobble out of the coupling.
Is that what we’re talking about here?
Same as my ISI Rack, it works really well too.

Singletrail Racks has made a mechanism that by tightening a bolt (below) on the front of the rack, pushes a cylinder out of the hitch (above) and eliminates the wobble on the rack. It also has a standard pin.

356974
 

Plankosaurus

Spongeplank Dalepantski
I’m having trouble understanding what’s going on here.
On all of my hitches, I have drilled a hole underneath and welded on a 1/2” nut, with a bolt I tighten to take any wobble out of the coupling.
Is that what we’re talking about here?
Yeah, more or less same thing I reckon.

My receiving hitch on the deli and the triton have the extra bolt already too. But then extra in the rack can't hurt.

Anywhere I can look at all these racks next to each other?

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Ky1e

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Can't see the issue with the U-bolt... had my shingleback for 2 years now, dont over 40,000km, was one of the first, and the u-bolt is still going strong.
 

moorey

call me Mia
Can't see the issue with the U-bolt... had my shingleback for 2 years now, dont over 40,000km, was one of the first, and the u-bolt is still going strong.
Seems a difficult answer to a simple question.
 
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ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
Can't see the issue with the U-bolt... had my shingleback for 2 years now, dont over 40,000km, was one of the first, and the u-bolt is still going strong.
Mate, as I said, I'm not knocking other racks. I did my research and spoke to the 3 manufacturers, the place I bought from stood out by a long way for me.

The tow bar on a Landcruiser is built in to the chassis, I have no 'lip' to clamp the U-Bolt thing on to so its out of the question for me anyway, but I could have welded the nut assembly to the inside as discussed by Moorey above, same as my ISI.

Also the powder coating was a factor, my ISI has seen over 100,000km and done probably 30,000km on dirt, including 2 x 5000km trips across the Simpson Desert. The rack will last forever, the powder coat looks like shit, chipped and rusting... Hello galv coating.

My thinking is when spending up to $1500 on a vertical rack, we need to get what we need from it, no point regretting your purchase.

The Shingleback, PigDog and SingleTrail are all great racks, just pick the one that fits your needs and go with it. I am simply pointing out the good bits of the SingleTrail vs the others IMO.
 

D01

Likes Dirt
If there's anyone else out there who, like me, thought to themselves that they seem a little pricey and thought they could probably make one themselves, the answer is yes, you probably can. And it was much easier than than I thought it would be.

I built a vertical 5 bike rack and garage stand for under $300 with no special skills, only my penuriousness and a drill, grinder and welder.
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
If there's anyone else out there who, like me, thought to themselves that they seem a little pricey and thought they could probably make one themselves, the answer is yes, you probably can. And it was much easier than than I thought it would be.

I built a vertical 5 bike rack and garage stand for under $300 with no special skills, only my penuriousness and a drill, grinder and welder.
Is your penuriousness cnc? :p
 

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
... and thought they could probably make one themselves, the answer is yes, you probably can. And it was much easier than than I thought it would be.

I built a vertical 5 bike rack and garage stand for under $300 with no special skills, only my penuriousness and a drill, grinder and welder.
Nice work ! You going to show off your skills ?
 
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