Yeah, pass on that deal too.SpotX are meant to be good.
https://www.spotxracks.com.au
Most are up around that without the extras.
There was a company on FB few months ago.
Pay $900 now, and in a few months we will deliver your rack.....yeah nah.
Not knocking any of the racks but the SpotX and the Shingleback rely on a U Bolt and piece of bent plate to stabilize the rack, which was the big decider for me.
The SpotX's lazer cut branding and light set was tempting but the stabilization and door clearance was more important to me.
Everyone has different needs.
Can you show it down with the tailgate open?View attachment 356964
View attachment 356966
Couldn't agree more. The Ubolt was the killer for me. Paying that amount of money to rely on a ubolt is very ordinary IMHO. Mitch's rack is superior in terms of function and ease of use.
I don't have a photo of it with the tailgate open and it down. I can out one up soon. There are no clearance issues.Can you show it down with the tailgate open?
are you talking about how the spotx and shingleback pivot on a bolt and have a pin to hold it in place?Not knocking any of the racks but the SpotX and the Shingleback rely on a U Bolt and piece of bent plate to stabilize the rack, which was the big decider for me.
The SpotX's lazer cut branding and light set was tempting but the stabilization and door clearance was more important to me.
Everyone has different needs.
Riiiight, I got it now. So how does the Currie rack do it? I see a bolt out the back, is it a wedge inside the hitch that spreads out stablize it?Where the 50mm tongue of the rack enters the tow hitch receiver of your vehicle. Both Shingleback and SpotX need one of these U bolt clamps (below) to stop the rack rocking about.
As said, its a pretty agricultural solution for one of the biggest factors on a ~$1400 bike rack.
Potentially with a 5 bike rack, you could have $50k of carbon bikes rocking and smashing themselves together.
View attachment 356970
Same as my ISI Rack, it works really well too.I’m having trouble understanding what’s going on here.
On all of my hitches, I have drilled a hole underneath and welded on a 1/2” nut, with a bolt I tighten to take any wobble out of the coupling.
Is that what we’re talking about here?
Yeah, more or less same thing I reckon.I’m having trouble understanding what’s going on here.
On all of my hitches, I have drilled a hole underneath and welded on a 1/2” nut, with a bolt I tighten to take any wobble out of the coupling.
Is that what we’re talking about here?
Seems a difficult answer to a simple question.Can't see the issue with the U-bolt... had my shingleback for 2 years now, dont over 40,000km, was one of the first, and the u-bolt is still going strong.
Mate, as I said, I'm not knocking other racks. I did my research and spoke to the 3 manufacturers, the place I bought from stood out by a long way for me.Can't see the issue with the U-bolt... had my shingleback for 2 years now, dont over 40,000km, was one of the first, and the u-bolt is still going strong.
Is your penuriousness cnc?If there's anyone else out there who, like me, thought to themselves that they seem a little pricey and thought they could probably make one themselves, the answer is yes, you probably can. And it was much easier than than I thought it would be.
I built a vertical 5 bike rack and garage stand for under $300 with no special skills, only my penuriousness and a drill, grinder and welder.
Nice work ! You going to show off your skills ?... and thought they could probably make one themselves, the answer is yes, you probably can. And it was much easier than than I thought it would be.
I built a vertical 5 bike rack and garage stand for under $300 with no special skills, only my penuriousness and a drill, grinder and welder.