I think metallic won...though so did ScoMo.Cheers for the advice fellas, I will look into the Uberbike ones when the OEM ones are up for replacement.
Seems like close to a 50/50 split on organic v. metallic. Might flip a coin...
Pfft. Wear out the resin til it’s the metal backingJust buy resins and flip them over, metal backing same thing
Metal for the front, resin at the back.Resin for the fronts, metal for the backs...
I've been doing it all wrong, such a newbie mistake. Had troubles cooking pads when contaminated, I've been using vegetable oil and the results haven't been great, maybe coconut oil is the goPfft. Wear out the resin til it’s the metal backing
I think the Uberbike racematrix are some sort of fancy semi-metallic, similar to the Trickstuff Power pads. They don't last as long as sintered but they have more bite.Cheers for the advice fellas, I will look into the Uberbike ones when the OEM ones are up for replacement.
Seems like close to a 50/50 split on organic v. metallic. Might flip a coin...
If your heavier metal has a greater advantage.Cheers for the advice fellas, I will look into the Uberbike ones when the OEM ones are up for replacement.
Seems like close to a 50/50 split on organic v. metallic. Might flip a coin...
Thing is that they don't.. Resin bite harder, which is great when you want short, hard dabs of brake, but the range of useful power is less than metal. If you try to modulate the brake for any moderately extended period, feathering/low load substantially increases the heat buildup within the pads, they melt, and glaze, and you lose a huge proportion of their power. Extended hard braking will make them a tad less prone to glazing, you'll just rip them to shreds very quickly.I can see how the resin feel like they have more modulation.....
I live in Tassie and its steep. My bikes all had sintered front and back bar one, and that bike I have resin front and now sintered back as I drag the ass on that bike a lot. I felt a loss of power in the back with resins on my second last ride as I hit some of the DH tracks. I switched to sintered in the back (grabbed a pair locally) and will probably switch the front to sintered as well.Metal for the front, resin at the back.
FWIW I run metallic on the Bronson and resin on the Cannondale hardtail. Metallic for heavier repeated braking but resin are fine.
I concur.Thing is that they don't.. Resin bite harder, which is great when you want short, hard dabs of brake, but the range of useful power is less than metal. If you try to modulate the brake for any moderately extended period, feathering/low load substantially increases the heat buildup within the pads, they melt, and glaze, and you lose a huge proportion of their power. Extended hard braking will make them a tad less prone to glazing, you'll just rip them to shreds very quickly.
Metal pads, being harder for a start, don't bite as hard initially, which can make them feel dead when you do only want the occasional quick dab, especially (as I mentioned previously) in cold conditions, but once warmed up the gentler bite plus higher heat tolerance under load result in vastly superior modulation and outright stopping power. Really though, if you're riding hard enough to need four-pot calipers, resin pads won't be up to the task; metal will be your better bet..