The Tool Thread

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
243 is medium strength from memory, which you're technically meant to heat to remove but will often come apart with enough brute force if threads and fasteners are strong enough (Particularly on smaller fine-pitch threads with good quality hardware). High strength is, funnily enough higher strength, and will almost certainly require heat to break the thread lock.
 

Nambra

Definitely should have gone to specsavers
Is there a Loctite stronger than 243 but still able to be undone with hand tools, ie not heat gun?

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243 has a breakaway torque of 230 in/lb (datasheet), which appears to be the highest of the Henkel blue Loctites. You'd have to compare with other brands of blue threadlocker to see if others were any better. In addition to the breakaway torque there is also the "prevail torque", which is how hard it is to disassemble once you've broken the thread lock - prevail torque is 40 in/lb for Loctite 243. Depending on your application, you might be looking for a higher prevail torque.

Perhaps look at Permatex 25210 removable orange (datasheet). It's supposed to be 3x stronger than blue but still removable.
 

Ultra Lord

Hurts. Requires Money. And is nerdy.
For anyone else after loctite brand stuff the red one 263 can be undone with hand tools.
Harder than 243 but a little shock loading does the trick (or don’t be a bitch and pull harder than a 12yr old who just discovered the incognito browser).

Honestly most loctited stuff lets go well before what they advertise. Surface contaminants have a huge impact on how good things are.

If your really worried about it, mix some grease in to keep it lubricated.
 

Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
No doubt all ratings assume the joint was primed with 7471, which most bolt shops don’t even stock in their little loctite display cabinets
Does that make the bond stronger?

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Scotty675

Cable thief
Drill press vice recommendations? Cross slide would be nice but not essential, 125mm. Don't want to spend a fortune but learnt not to buy a cheapo like last time.
 

dazz

Downhill Dazz
No doubt all ratings assume the joint was primed with 7471, which most bolt shops don’t even stock in their little loctite display cabinets
^^^ This. Almost all fasteners are either black oxide, zinc plated, or stainless, which are all listed as 'inactive' surfaces. Same with aluminium.

243 and 277 are our go to here at work, most of the time we find that we get enough of a locking effect even without the primer. We mostly use the 277 to lock studs into aluminium housings, and it's pretty strong. 243 everywhere else. So generally I'd advise to just make sure both threads are cleaned of any old compound, grease etc, give it a good spray with some contact cleaner, then dry off with an air gun and you're good to go.

Though don't listen to me, I rarely use Loctite at all and have a preference for anti seize for most applications.

"Insert some sort of innuendo here about not jamming the bolt in dry ... ending in tears."
 

link1896

Mr Greenfield
Now the caffeine has done its thing....I’d assumed everyone was cleaning things thoroughly. Isopropyl is my go to, even ultrasonic cleaning parts in an infant formula tin full of isopropyl floating in the ultrasonic bath.


But I’ve a feeling 7471 does a better job then even this. The magical 10% not disclosed in the MSDS?


I had a machine that loved to bust the roll pins holding bevel gears in place from a rudimentary 3 phase motor soft start using resistors and a timer, for a bad soft start.

Isopropyl cleaned parts that then got 263 lasted 12-14 months, when I used 7471 as well it made it to 2 years before failure.
 
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hellmansam

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Honestly most loctited stuff lets go well before what they advertise. Surface contaminants have a huge impact on how good things are.

If your really worried about it, mix some grease in to keep it lubricated.
Yeah this - I used Loctite on bikes 'back in the day' during the pinnacle of my bike mechanic career. Only for stuff that had issues, and in some cases with judicious use of grease/oil to ease future disassembly.
 

Binaural

Eats Squid
Yeah this - I used Loctite on bikes 'back in the day' during the pinnacle of my bike mechanic career. Only for stuff that had issues, and in some cases with judicious use of grease/oil to ease future disassembly.
243 doesn't work very well when the parts are greasy. The lower-grade 222 stuff is what you should be using if you're not cleaning the parts with isopropyl before reassembly.
 

SummitFever

Eats Squid
Now the caffeine has done its thing....I’d assumed everyone was cleaning things thoroughly. Isopropyl is my go to, even ultrasonic cleaning parts in an infant formula tin full of isopropyl floating in the ultrasonic bath.
Ultrasonic is great. If we want to get something properly free of oils before assembly, the ONLY way to do that is to use some type of mechanical method. No matter how much solvent you use on something, all you are really doing is diluting the surface grease. Yes, you can dilute it to a level that its no longer critical but for certain sort of assemblies and adhesives where you want to form a bond at the molecular level with the base material some sort of mechanical cleaning (typically media blasting) is the only way to get it clean enough.

If you want to test that you've got the oil/grease off something, see if water wets it. The thinnest film of oil will cause the water to bead.
 

teK--

Eats Squid
Ultrasonic is great. If we want to get something properly free of oils before assembly, the ONLY way to do that is to use some type of mechanical method. No matter how much solvent you use on something, all you are really doing is diluting the surface grease. Yes, you can dilute it to a level that its no longer critical but for certain sort of assemblies and adhesives where you want to form a bond at the molecular level with the base material some sort of mechanical cleaning (typically media blasting) is the only way to get it clean enough.

If you want to test that you've got the oil/grease off something, see if water wets it. The thinnest film of oil will cause the water to bead.
And I thought I was anal when I scrub threads with a toothbrush or a cotton bud and iso, then air or heatgun dry before applying loctite lol.
 

Jpez

Down on the left!
I know this thread is full of sexy engineering tools and whatnot and I’ve got much sexier tools than this (Festool) oh baby, and lovely old vintage handplanes and beloved 6ft Dawn sahclamps etc but I just wanted to give a shout out to the quiet achievers.
This old Irwin quick grip has got to be at least 15 years old. I’ve done all sorts of unspeakable things to it. It’s been with me through carpentry jobs, structural steel work, left in the weather for days at a time, left to fend for itself in the back of the Ute tray, you name it.
I have an appreciation for well designed, dependable tools that just keep going and going.
It also shits me when a proper designed tool gets the redesign treatment and gets turned into a piece of shit. Makita I’m looking straight at you updating the old bulletproof ls1013 Slide dropsaw
366818
 

andrew9

Likes Dirt
Drill press vice recommendations? Cross slide would be nice but not essential, 125mm. Don't want to spend a fortune but learnt not to buy a cheapo like last time.
Something with step jaws.
Something long enough that you can hold it by hand and have leverage over it, so you don't have to clamp it down for small stuff

I've mostly used the big Dawn drill vices, big heavy agricultural things that are hard to kill. Dawn are expensive and lacking features, but made in AUS

This would be one that I'd consider, never used this one, but Vertex make good stuff

 
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