pink poodle
気が狂っている男
Put it through the dishwasher every now and then.
I’m with you, I don’t trust the pressed metal chain stretch checkers either. If you run quick links, you can simply hang the chain vertically on a 3mm screw through a piece of aluminium angle or similar, then measure down from the centre of the screw hole and mark distances of 50” / 1270mm (100 x 1/2” links, new 0% chain), 1276.5 mm (~0.5%) and 1282.5mm (~1.0%). This way you measure stretch over 100 links with more accuracy. If you rotate chains you can also hang several chains on the screw and compare relative stretch between chains to ensure you are rotating to the least stretched chain.I had a clunking noise from one of my bikes and I even replaced the whole bb and lubed the crank. Took it to the mec to diagnose and he laughed and said new chain. My chain checker (park tools one) didn't register it as worn. I used his park tool CC-2 and it showed it was worn beyond 0.75. Basically the static checkers are rubbish and these days I use a vernier caliper to measure. The interesting thing is from new the chains tend to have different tolerances. Shimano tends to be on the more stretched side and then KMC stuff then YBN. YBN stuff takes a while to run in though if you have a worn drivetrain so keep that in mind.
Me too but since the great geoblocking event of 2018, Consumables cost a lot more than they used to now!I try not to get paralysed by thinking about it.
Every bike we have has a KMC chain on it, since the geo-blocking farce I only order KMC from Germany.Me too but since the great geoblocking event of 2018, Consumables cost a lot more than they used to now!
Are you telling me I just wasted $15.99? At the very least I will be able to quickly check roughly how bad it is compared with riding 2000km without checking. Is the measurement centre to centre of the hole/pin for the 100 link setup? I really like this idea. My old chain was way longer when I replaced it, I was a little amazed, but more ashamed I overlooked it. $220 of cassette and chainring says I don't do that againI’m with you, I don’t trust the pressed metal chain stretch checkers either. If you run quick links, you can simply hang the chain vertically on a 3mm screw through a piece of aluminium angle or similar, then measure down from the centre of the screw hole and mark distances of 50” / 1270mm (100 x 1/2” links, new 0% chain), 1276.5 mm (~0.5%) and 1282.5mm (~1.0%). This way you measure stretch over 100 links with more accuracy. If you rotate chains you can also hang several chains on the screw and compare relative stretch between chains to ensure you are rotating to the least stretched chain.
I put it on let it sit 15 mins - put more on the first time - Make sure its only a shortish (sub 20KM ) ride first time out then just wipe and lube between ridesI prefer squirt over everything else I’ve tried. Takes a full degrease/clean to begin with, but after that a quick brush after a ride and a light reapplication every few rides. Found I needed to put about 3 coats on to begin with to get it working right.
You didn't waste your money (I've got one too) - they're handy for quickly checking <0.5, <0.75 or rooted. I'm trying to rotate several chains to preserve an expensive cassette and want to be able to see relative stretch between chain 'A' and chain 'B' a bit more accurately so I can swap to the other chain when the one I'm running has stretched more than the other one.Are you telling me I just wasted $15.99? At the very least I will be able to quickly check roughly how bad it is compared with riding 2000km without checking. Is the measurement centre to centre of the hole/pin for the 100 link setup? I really like this idea. My old chain was way longer when I replaced it, I was a little amazed, but more ashamed I overlooked it. $220 of cassette and chainring says I don't do that again
I have 2 cheapies, they are ancient, both read exactly the same at 0.75mm.Are you telling me I just wasted $15.99?
Same. One of the quirks is that when the chain wears the weakest link generally starts wearing and then accelerates so it's common for a chain to read normal in one section but have one or a few links absolutely shagged. This caused a clunking noise in my drivetrain.You didn't waste your money (I've got one too)
Cool so if I measure at a few sections that would also give me a better picture.Same. One of the quirks is that when the chain wears the weakest link generally starts wearing and then accelerates so it's common for a chain to read normal in one section but have one or a few links absolutely shagged. This caused a clunking noise in my drivetrain.
CC-2? Thought about getting one but wasn't convinced about the short length of them as longer ones don't need as much tolerance to be accurate.I have a fancy park tool chain checker - its Ace !