LIGHTS MEGATHREAD - all questions on riding lights asked and answered here!!!

rockmoose

rockmoose

his flabber is totally gastered
Depends on your amp draw. I've never used the Panasonic, but they only have a 6.7amp continuous rating, so far too low for me. The 25R are a good batt. 20amp continuous, no problems. VTC4 is good for 25amp continuous, the VTC5 too, if available.

Be very wary of your supplier. Plenty of fakes getting about which can have disastrous effects.
 
rockmoose

rockmoose

his flabber is totally gastered
For reference, LG HE2 are my all time favourite 18650, but they are the most faked battery out there. Samsung 30Q is my fallback.

Mostly now, I'm running 21700 batts. Samsung 40T, 4000mAh @35A continuous.
 
johnny

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
rockmoose said:
Depends on your amp draw. I've never used the Panasonic, but they only have a 6.7amp continuous rating, so far too low for me. The 25R are a good batt. 20amp continuous, no problems. VTC4 is good for 25amp continuous, the VTC5 too, if available.

Be very wary of your supplier. Plenty of fakes getting about which can have disastrous effects.
Click to expand...
It's for one of these suckers (every few years I have to go back and lead about ampage, mAh, etc., which I have not done yet)
100v-240v Battery Charger. ( LED indication for Power On / Charging / Full charge )
Model of Battery required: 1 x 8.4v 6400mAh 4x18650 Battery Pack.
387829





I have one of these that I am planning using:
387828
 
rockmoose

rockmoose

his flabber is totally gastered
That's low amp draw, even the panasonic's would handle that.

Just be certain of the quality of your supplier. I'm serious about how many fake batteries are flowing around the market place. A good supplier will load test all cells, and sell you matched cells, if you're buying pairs, or 4 packs.
 
johnny

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
rockmoose said:
That's low amp draw, even the panasonic's would handle that.

Just be certain of the quality of your supplier. I'm serious about how many fake batteries are flowing around the market place. A good supplier will load test all cells, and sell you matched cells, if you're buying pairs, or 4 packs.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I know that it's a risk with batteries - I see the equivalent of these selling on Ebay for half price, which I avoid for obvious reasons. That supplier was given to me by @komdotkom on the previous page (https://www.lanplus.com.au/index.php?route=product/category&path=74). I have no idea which suppliers are good or not. Do you have any suggestions?
 
johnny

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
rockmoose said:
Depends on your amp draw. I've never used the Panasonic, but they only have a 6.7amp continuous rating, so far too low for me. The 25R are a good batt. 20amp continuous, no problems. VTC4 is good for 25amp continuous, the VTC5 too, if available.

Be very wary of your supplier. Plenty of fakes getting about which can have disastrous effects.
Click to expand...
The VTC5 is available but the HG2 is out of stock. They're both at $14 a pop from this seller, though and I was trying to keep it to around $10ish per batt as I have to purchase a minimum of 8 (trying to stem the bleeding on bike related stuff after paying out close to $8 to build the Hyrax).

How can you tell what the amp draw is. For instand, the Panasonic only says "High draw" or something similar.
 
rockmoose

rockmoose

his flabber is totally gastered
I always used supersports600 from ebay, but unfortunately he has given it away. Will need to check battery mooch on ECigarette Forum, when I need to restock. He has all the info you could ever need. He is also on farcebook and instaflog if you are that way inclined.
 
S

SummitFever

Eats Squid
Does the battery box you intend to use have protection (over charge/discharge) circuitry? The plain cells will need external protection circuitry.

Also the pany 3400s are the go for bike lights. Highest genuine capacity and sufficient discharge current.
 
link1896

link1896

Mr Greenfield
I take a very dim view of any manufacturer that believes series charging lithium cells is ok, with them falsely trusting that natural balancing is ok. It is simply not plausible the pack manufacturers are grading cells for capacity and internal resistance that are within 0.5% of each other before assembly.

Speaking of which, Sony’s chemistry, now owned by Murata, has the best consistency and after 500 plus cycles will still match within themselves the best. Often batteries built with competing brands cells, when pulled apart at the end of their service life, one cell is letting the battery down. And this is in a fully balanced pack with a proper BMS. Your unmanaged, series changed battery isn’t making it to 500 or more cycles. Even with a BMS, you cannot just replace that now faulty cell and return the pack to service. What goes in must match it’s neighbours for capacity and internal resistance.


A murata VTC6 is hard to go past when lifecycle is considered, but…..

Things significantly enter the region of “currently unknowable” when we introduce MTB vibrations into the equation. For road going EV usage, testing has revealed 18650 lithium-ion cells degradation is predominantly charge/discharge cycling, that vibration is an order of magnitude smaller with regards to cell capacity degradation.


I’m planning on a test jig, that has 2 of each cells of interest mounted to a vibrating platform that moves in X y a roll and yaw planes to discharge while being vibrated, and charged while stationary, three times a day hopefully to get some data on degradation in a mountain bike scenario.
 
link1896

link1896

Mr Greenfield
Looping back to Johnny’s question.

Johnny you’ve linked to an unprotected cell. You want a protected cell. A few dollars more for a world of extra safety

Unprotected cells should only go into spot welded battery packs with an integrated battery management circuit boards with proper balance charging.


Anything else should have a cell with an integrated protection pcb.

And lanplus are also a trustworthy supplier as far as genuine cells are concerned, but all of these suppliers lack iso9001 certification , their middleman in mainland China is the risk. I’ve seen legit businesses like Jaycar get bitten by fake transistors, so it can happen to anyone.
 
beeb

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
link1896 said:
Looping back to Johnny’s question.

Johnny you’ve linked to an unprotected cell. You want a protected cell. A few dollars more for a world of extra safety

Unprotected cells should only go into spot welded battery packs with an integrated battery management circuit boards with proper balance charging.


Anything else should have a cell with an integrated protection pcb.

And lanplus are also a trustworthy supplier as far as genuine cells are concerned, but all of these suppliers lack iso9001 certification , their middleman in mainland China is the risk. I’ve seen legit businesses like Jaycar get bitten by fake transistors, so it can happen to anyone.
Click to expand...
Nothing worse than getting bent over by an unprotected dodgy tranny.
 
link1896

link1896

Mr Greenfield
While this video shows a 18650 being penetrated with a metal screw, it’s the same outcome from over charging above 4.25v, or massively exceeding output current, like a dead short.


Fun begins at 1m35


 
johnny

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
ozzybmx said:
Have you ordered the light yet ?

I have 3 of the triple LED ones in a drawer, they were absolute shithouse.

A crap narrow beam and about 300-400lm max.

They were advertised as 6000 or 10000 or something really silly.

View attachment 387859
Click to expand...
I’ve had my lights for years, the double LED ones and they’re fine for my purposes. I just put them up against some cleanskins and there was no notable difference. I tend to ride tighter, slower trails at night and don’t require huge field of vision.

link1896 said:
Looping back to Johnny’s question.

Johnny you’ve linked to an unprotected cell. You want a protected cell. A few dollars more for a world of extra safety

Unprotected cells should only go into spot welded battery packs with an integrated battery management circuit boards with proper balance charging.


Anything else should have a cell with an integrated protection pcb.

And lanplus are also a trustworthy supplier as far as genuine cells are concerned, but all of these suppliers lack iso9001 certification , their middleman in mainland China is the risk. I’ve seen legit businesses like Jaycar get bitten by fake transistors, so it can happen to anyone.
Click to expand...
Yeah, thanks. Does that Pany up the page that you pictured tick the boxes that you’re referring to? And sorry if I’ve misunderstood something, but would they work well in that box that I linked to? (I actually thought it did have inbuilt protection against overcharging, at least). I have a “smart charger” from Jaycar that I use for my 18650s. I rarely, if ever charge in those boxes.

ah, I see now that they are unprotected
 
moorey

moorey

call me Mia
ozzybmx said:
Have you ordered the light yet ?

I have 3 of the triple LED ones in a drawer, they were absolute shithouse.

A crap narrow beam and about 300-400lm max.

They were advertised as 6000 or 10000 or something really silly.

View attachment 387859
Click to expand...
Yep. The triple are useless. I only run one on the bar as a back up if the helmet light spontaneously fails. They also chew through the power. The double are great though.
 
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