The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
No, that's a downgrade.Fixed.
No, that's a downgrade.Fixed.
So smart in every other way...go figure...No, that's a downgrade.
I started posting something more technical but deleted it as it was beyond what is needed. Basically the gist was that radial ball bearings are ok for bike hubs and on the plus size they are easy to get a hold of and when you replace them you replace all running surfaces with new. Having the races part of the hub shell and the cones really isn't ideal as they aren't replaceable. I'd rather be able to pop into a bearing shop and get a replacement complete bearing. I really doubt the races built in shimano hubs use material or tolerances that even compares with cheap cartridge bearings. They probably have to go overboard with the bearings to make them last. I'd rather go oversize on radial ball bearings to deal with the thrust load and be able to replace all of it when the time comes.Cartridge bearings are pretty reasonable at taking purely radial loads, but pretty ordinary at taking lateral loads. So ther're fine if you don't corner much, or at all. Plus they're not actually that well sealed......
Go by sum fawks u dont ned n wyl nevah youseLipstick on a pig
100% agree...with not that.Rims that seal easily if you want to go tubeless that eliminates Stans IMHO.
Never had any more issue with Stans than DT, Roval etc.Rims that seal easily if you want to go tubeless that eliminates Stans IMHO.
Totes sounds like user error to me, sorry @rowdyflat. A valve hole is a valve hole is a valve hole. Tried tightening?Yeah I dunno they always leak thru the valve stem whatever I try . Sometimes silicon works .
When they leak thru almost every spoke hole I presume that is cos the valve air tracks along the middle channel under the tape.
Maybe I dont use enough sealant or rotate them enough.
Otherwise Stans seem good.
Tried tightening with needle nose pliers to really squish the valve in there?Yeah yeah of course.
I don't like that technique and have always found I can get sufficient compression by pushing down on the valve with my left thumb down on the rubber end inside the rim as hard as I can whilst tightening with my right hand. At least that way you know you can get the valve out if you need to put a tube in whilst out of the workshop.Tried tightening with needle nose pliers to really squish the valve in there?
I use pliers liberally...and always carry mini pliers in my riding kit anyway....I don't like that technique and have always found I can get sufficient compression by pushing down on the valve with my left thumb down on the rubber end inside the rim as hard as I can whilst tightening with my right hand. At least that way you know you can get the valve out if you need to put a tube in whilst out of the workshop.
Yeah was thinking using chain reactions hope hub section where you build up your own rims.+1 for Spank
If you want to buy already built off the shelf then you can't really go wrong with Hope for about $500-$600