I will have the Muru up there end Nov. Have a ride and you can dismiss Ti.
Confessions from the fuckwits
- Thread starter moorey
- Start date
Jim Junkie
Used to sell drugs, now he just takes them
I want to buy A hardtail. Or a gravel bike. However, I also love my wife and would like her to stick around a bit longer.
Ultra Lord
Hurts. Requires Money. And is nerdy.
So buy her a hardtail too?
Cardy George
Piercing rural members since 1981
No, definitely wrong topic, I highly recommend it.
(for the record I don't know how good modern duallies are, but I know my modern hardtail is FREAKING AWESOME)
fatboyonabike
Captain oblivious
fixed it for you!
Jim Junkie
Used to sell drugs, now he just takes them
She already has one, sadly too small for me.
stirk
Burner
My wife has a soft tail and sadly it's too large for me.
cokeonspecialtwodollars
Fartes of Portingale
Well played Stirk, yes well played.
Spike-X
Grumpy Old Sarah
I strained a groin muscle or something swimming a couple of days ago.
Well, I say swimming. I was running for the dunny after getting home from swimming. Turned a corner too sharply, put my weight on my right leg at an odd angle, and things went wrong. Now I'm not sure if I'll be up for riding this weekend.
Well, I say swimming. I was running for the dunny after getting home from swimming. Turned a corner too sharply, put my weight on my right leg at an odd angle, and things went wrong. Now I'm not sure if I'll be up for riding this weekend.
foxpuppet
Eats Squid
Long day at work, came home and my daughter was keen for a ride so who am I to shut her down. Cruising the streets and started practicing manuals while seated and standing. Getting a pretty good rhythm and then whack!!! Looped out and went down hard on the bitumen. Tailbone took most of the hit then back and helmet. Bike seat is a bit torn and i think I blacked out a bit, I’m still seeing stars and ears are ringing as I type this while she plays in the park.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
hifiandmtb
Sphincter beanie
Coccyx injury FTL! I crashed my BMX thirty-five years ago on tarmac like that & *still* remember the pain.
ashes_mtb
Has preferences
Go for a slow post work ride with my 5yr old. Look down at one point and wonder why I'm in the big ring given how slow we're riding. Go to shift down and think, where the hell is the front shifter? Looking around like it's fallen off for a bit before I remember it's a 1x.
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
Oh I did laugh a little loud at this. If only you'd shit yourself in the process. Alas...
safreek
*******
Probably did, just to scared to admit it
foxpuppet
Eats Squid
Last night I kept waking up with the pain and trying to move around to get comfortable was a shocker. Today walking around is ok, but trying to pick up the 16 month old or put on shoes it’s pretty bad. Doesn’t hurt to touch of press though so I think it’s just bruising and muscle tightness from the impact.
I think I got lucky, the seat looks to have taken the brunt of the impact and then my body. The seat had been shunted forward on the post to the max distance forward (about 50mm)
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Spike-X
Grumpy Old Sarah
You can't have everything.
Oddjob
Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
What do you get when you combine clever german engineering with a sleep deprived dad who doesn't read instructions...
a f@#/wit.
So I was originally going to build up my Liteville 301 with a set of Hope Pro2 Evos in non boost with a Wolftooth boost adapter for the rear. The 6mm extra offset from the boost adapter was going to give me equal spoke length/tension left to right.
As a general rule, I order my spokes 2mm too long to ensure that the spoke will thread all the way through the nipple, even if I use a washer.
Then I got a sweet deal on some I9 Torch hubs with a boost rear. I agonised for weeks as to whether I should switch out the hubs and lose the almost perfect side to side spoke length. In the end the 150gm cut in rotating mass and 120 poe was too hard to ignore.
So I built up the perfect set of wheels. Used Lanotec for the nipple lubricant. Stress relieved countless times. Lateral true within 0.1mm etc.
Fitted tape, valve, sealant and tyres. Fitted the wheel to the frame and WTF!!!!! The tyre is almost rubbing on the drive side chainstay and I've got the grand canyon on the non drive side.
I go and read the manual. Aha it says the 'Evo6' rear end is offset to allow boost hubs to have even spoke length/tension. (See where this going yet.) But what is the offset? Check the Liteville website, three different manuals, google, nothing. Finally see a discussion on pinkbike discussing superboost and how its bullshit. Someone mentions that even spoke length/tension is more important than moving flanges outward and references how S-Works and Litevilles achieve this with boost hubs and a 6mm offset. MOTHERF@!%ER!
So I go back to my truing stand and centre the stand and then carefully offset the calipers by 6mm. Re-true wheel, get perfect tension etc etc. Pull off wheel measure the dish with the Park WAG-4, and there is 12mm gap from the wheel and the dishing tool. WTF!? I give up for the day.
Next day. I re-centre the stand. Check the centre with a perfectly dished wheel. Get the verniers out and measure the 6mm offset and true again. The gap on the dishing tool is still measuring 12mm. I give up for the day.
Next week. I read everything that Park publishes on truing and dishing and come across this line:
"With situation B, the rim should be moved to right. Rim is off-centered to the left in bike, but only half the distance from indicator pointer to locknut. For example, if indicator point is 3mm from locknut, wheel is off centered to mid plane of the bike by 1.5mm." What a f@#kwit.
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a f@#/wit.
So I was originally going to build up my Liteville 301 with a set of Hope Pro2 Evos in non boost with a Wolftooth boost adapter for the rear. The 6mm extra offset from the boost adapter was going to give me equal spoke length/tension left to right.
As a general rule, I order my spokes 2mm too long to ensure that the spoke will thread all the way through the nipple, even if I use a washer.
Then I got a sweet deal on some I9 Torch hubs with a boost rear. I agonised for weeks as to whether I should switch out the hubs and lose the almost perfect side to side spoke length. In the end the 150gm cut in rotating mass and 120 poe was too hard to ignore.
So I built up the perfect set of wheels. Used Lanotec for the nipple lubricant. Stress relieved countless times. Lateral true within 0.1mm etc.
Fitted tape, valve, sealant and tyres. Fitted the wheel to the frame and WTF!!!!! The tyre is almost rubbing on the drive side chainstay and I've got the grand canyon on the non drive side.
I go and read the manual. Aha it says the 'Evo6' rear end is offset to allow boost hubs to have even spoke length/tension. (See where this going yet.) But what is the offset? Check the Liteville website, three different manuals, google, nothing. Finally see a discussion on pinkbike discussing superboost and how its bullshit. Someone mentions that even spoke length/tension is more important than moving flanges outward and references how S-Works and Litevilles achieve this with boost hubs and a 6mm offset. MOTHERF@!%ER!
So I go back to my truing stand and centre the stand and then carefully offset the calipers by 6mm. Re-true wheel, get perfect tension etc etc. Pull off wheel measure the dish with the Park WAG-4, and there is 12mm gap from the wheel and the dishing tool. WTF!? I give up for the day.
Next day. I re-centre the stand. Check the centre with a perfectly dished wheel. Get the verniers out and measure the 6mm offset and true again. The gap on the dishing tool is still measuring 12mm. I give up for the day.
Next week. I read everything that Park publishes on truing and dishing and come across this line:
"With situation B, the rim should be moved to right. Rim is off-centered to the left in bike, but only half the distance from indicator pointer to locknut. For example, if indicator point is 3mm from locknut, wheel is off centered to mid plane of the bike by 1.5mm." What a f@#kwit.
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rowdy71
Squid
money plus wheelbuilder makes all that go away. you are a better man than i my friend
Flow-Rider
Burner
I got caught out years ago.
Always centre the wheel from your frame and fork, build the wheel loosely, sit the wheel in position, tighten the axle and measure at a reference point on the rim with the gaps then move the rim in the position you want on the truing stand.
petertronica
Likes Dirt
So I just finished strapping up my crank with protective tape/wrap for a weekend of shuttles. Stepped back to admire my work, and realised I'd spent the last 45 mins applying tape to the wrong side...