I’ve got the replica of the Ford axle spacers which step out the actual stub assembly from the beam. 10mm per side which keeps me within track width change rules with respect to road use and have the tick from certifying engineer as it mimics a factory fitment and doesn’t change axle or bearing loads. (That probably comes across as a bit smart arse, but basically is a long and convoluted way of saying I’m not just firing a parts gun at the car) They’re also not designed to induce camber change which would require a bit more wrangling on the design/safety certification aspects
Definitely interested in the road mount, it’s not too dissimilar to putting inserts into a “good” one, and I’ve done both (poly or resin fill and well as press in inserts) to other cars in the past and found it a good compromise.
Once I’ve gotten over the initial “catch up the stuff the last owner didn’t take care of” I’ll drop a line.
I have to do the steering reservoir relocation, it has a stupid huge cooler that’s mounted a little too high for full airflow but still is puking/cooking fluid under spirited conditions. May as well just resolve that whole thing once only.
Asides from that, the standard corrosion and seepage from the alloy water outlet housing and upper rad hose - pretty normal for most Duratecs of that age), needs a new thermostat as it’s not getting stable to operating temperature. The PCV pipe to the intake, you know the hidden one, is stuffed like they all are by now. Throw fresh fluids through it, catch a few oil leaks here and there and sort out the butchered exhaust. Some peanut flanged the rear muffler and it does nothing but smack the rear floor
It’s fully Dynamat lined and has a fairly comprehensive stereo install that needed a little updating. But it’s probably the fattest XR4 in the country for that.
Don’t get me started on the $380 Coilovers the previous owner installed. The low is nice the weirdly unmatched damping to spring rate not so nice.
Seriously...
In the airflow....
Cop magnet tint and ride height.