2016 Specialized Enduro 650 Coil Shock

smitho

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Currently running an Öhlins STX22 on my Enduro. Aside from some reliability issues with air loss, no complaints once it was dialled in.

Mostly out of curiosity keen to try a coil shock and try the small bump sensitivity everyone is raving about. Love the playful pop of the current air shock, but previously had a Commencal with Bos Coils front and rear which was the last word in plushness.

Current shock is a 215x57 with the irritating Specialized proprietary Yoke rather than eyelets. Can use a BikeYoke to run a normal 200x57 Shock.

https://www.mountainbikesdirect.com.au/bikeyoke-yoke-to-suit-specialized-enduro

Current options are either a Cane Creek Double Barrel Coil CS, or Coil Inline CS. Reason is largely for the climb switch as while my riding is gravity focused I still earn my descents.

Questions I have are:

1. Aside from weight, what are the difference between the regular Double Barrel and the IL? Have searched online but haven’t been able to find any comparisons.

2. Anything I need to know about shock setup on the Enduro - leverage ratio doesn’t work with coil, won’t fit, etc?

3. Any other options I should be looking at? Can’t afford a Push 11.6 and Öhlins TTX sold out for the foreseeable future.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Z

Zaf

Guest
I've been running a CCDB Coil on my Stumpjumper with the aid of a Bike Yoke.
The main thing with Specialized bikes is they usually run a bit of a higher leverage rate on the shock, so when it comes to setting spring pressure for a coil, you generally need to run a heavier spring to get the same sag. Most spring calculators will put you in a good ballpark though, so just trust it.

The Double Barrel vs the Inline, the reservoir is an obvious one so better thermal regulation and higher oil volume. Also, depending on the model year, they may run their 14.7mm eyelet and norglide bushings for it. I also believe the main piston shaft of the Double Barrel is thicker (one of the places they saved weight going to the Inline), and less prone to snapping off like a twig.

That being said, I don't think it's a big issue with the BikeYoke Enduro style mounting hardware. The orientation of the eyelet allows the shaft to move (ie, have a slight side to side variation) if there are any lateral forces across the joint, just don't cinch down the lower bolt so much the eyelet can't move. I also don't think the Inline's fit that well with some Enduro models anyway, something about the form factor of shock with relation to the mount holes and it contacting the frame etc. I'd want to check first, but less of a problem with the DB.
 

smitho

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I've been running a CCDB Coil on my Stumpjumper with the aid of a Bike Yoke.
The main thing with Specialized bikes is they usually run a bit of a higher leverage rate on the shock, so when it comes to setting spring pressure for a coil, you generally need to run a heavier spring to get the same sag. Most spring calculators will put you in a good ballpark though, so just trust it.

The Double Barrel vs the Inline, the reservoir is an obvious one so better thermal regulation and higher oil volume. Also, depending on the model year, they may run their 14.7mm eyelet and norglide bushings for it. I also believe the main piston shaft of the Double Barrel is thicker (one of the places they saved weight going to the Inline), and less prone to snapping off like a twig.

That being said, I don't think it's a big issue with the BikeYoke Enduro style mounting hardware. The orientation of the eyelet allows the shaft to move (ie, have a slight side to side variation) if there are any lateral forces across the joint, just don't cinch down the lower bolt so much the eyelet can't move. I also don't think the Inline's fit that well with some Enduro models anyway, something about the form factor of shock with relation to the mount holes and it contacting the frame etc. I'd want to check first, but less of a problem with the DB.
How effective is the climb switch on your Stumpjumper? The LBS (a Specialized dealer) have tried it and were of the view that the difference between the modes is minimal and there’s a somewhat limited benefit to having it.

Alternative is now a Fox DHX2 with the 2 position lever. From what I can find online this is a more traditional lockout albeit with a little give.

It is a do-it-all bike and the CCDB would seem to make more sense for the times I use it on more XC oriented trails, while the DHX2 would for self-shuttling back up the fire-road before bombing back down gravity trails. The Ohlins on it now effectively has both.

Will probably get the DHX2 because it comes with an orange spring....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zaf
Z

Zaf

Guest
How effective is the climb switch on your Stumpjumper? The LBS (a Specialized dealer) have tried it and were of the view that the difference between the modes is minimal and there’s a somewhat limited benefit to having it.

Alternative is now a Fox DHX2 with the 2 position lever. From what I can find online this is a more traditional lockout albeit with a little give.

It is a do-it-all bike and the CCDB would seem to make more sense for the times I use it on more XC oriented trails, while the DHX2 would for self-shuttling back up the fire-road before bombing back down gravity trails. The Ohlins on it now effectively has both.

Will probably get the DHX2 because it comes with an orange spring....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I found the climb switch on the fox float ctd to have a reasonable adjustment, that I just never used. The CCDB was bought without one after that and pedals brilliantly still.

You can't make a wrong choice really.

Sent from my Agora 4G Pro using Tapatalk
 

tkdbboy

Likes Dirt
I run a monarch plus RC3 on my 2011 Enduro with a bikeyoke.

One thing to keep in mind is that the orientation of the shock changes due to the yoke. You will have to rotate one end of the shock 90 degrees which will put your LS/HS/3pos etc adjustments facing one side rather than down.
Also I tried to fit a DB IL Air and there wasn't enough clearance on the frame mount for either end of the shock to fit.
By the looks of it, your generation of specialized shouldn't have any issues.
 

smitho

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Now coil sprung!



Already ordered some stealth black Slik Graphics decals for the reservoir to go with the rest of the murdered out theme, and also because my OCD can’t deal with it being upside down.

Orange SLS spring (to match the hubs) or maybe a Ti spring to come once I’ve been for a spin and confirmed the spring rate is correct.

Unfortunately will have to wait until the weekend to ride it in anger!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

smitho

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I found the climb switch on the fox float ctd to have a reasonable adjustment, that I just never used. The CCDB was bought without one after that and pedals brilliantly still.

You can't make a wrong choice really.

Sent from my Agora 4G Pro using Tapatalk
I run a monarch plus RC3 on my 2011 Enduro with a bikeyoke.

One thing to keep in mind is that the orientation of the shock changes due to the yoke. You will have to rotate one end of the shock 90 degrees which will put your LS/HS/3pos etc adjustments facing one side rather than down.
Also I tried to fit a DB IL Air and there wasn't enough clearance on the frame mount for either end of the shock to fit.
By the looks of it, your generation of specialized shouldn't have any issues.
Any tips of setup specific to this type of linkage? Finding with correct 30% sag I’m blowing through the travel and bottoming out over fairly mild stuff even with a load of HSC. Suspect I’m going to have to sacrifice some sag, run 20-25% in order to avoid that.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Z

Zaf

Guest
Any tips of setup specific to this type of linkage? Finding with correct 30% sag I’m blowing through the travel and bottoming out over fairly mild stuff even with a load of HSC. Suspect I’m going to have to sacrifice some sag, run 20-25% in order to avoid that.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Run some more HSC to begin with. How harshly is it bottoming out? And anywhere out of the ordinary? Is it failing to recover and then smacking the bumper or just slamming on big compressions?

It might worth backing off some HSR so it can recover quickly from deeper hits if that's the case.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

smitho

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Run some more HSC to begin with. How harshly is it bottoming out? And anywhere out of the ordinary? Is it failing to recover and then smacking the bumper or just slamming on big compressions?

It might worth backing off some HSR so it can recover quickly from deeper hits if that's the case.
Just slamming on bigger compressions. HSR and LSR are quite fast.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Z

Zaf

Guest
I'd increase HSC a good turn, then step it back until you're hitting the bumper again, see how that plays.

Sent from my Agora 4G Pro using Tapatalk
 

smitho

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Problem solved (I think). Assumed the shock was set at baseline when setting preload. Already had a couple of turns of preload on it. I’ve effectively been running it with 3-4 turns of preload, well above Fox’s max to avoid spring bind. When set at two full turns I’m at about 35% sag, so will need to go up to a 550lb spring. Hopefully with the 550, slightly less sag at 25%, and a load of HSC will have a coil spring monster!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zaf
Top