29er 'specific' bars..
- Thread starter Petero
- Start date
galumay
Likes Bikes
I started with flat bars on mine and didnt like them, changed to Crank Bros Carbon risers, they suit me much better.
Its purely personal preference I believe.
Bodin
GMBC
Yep.
I have a preference for a low front end, so I have to run flat bar + negative rise stem, but there's no reason why someone shouldn't run riser bars on a 29er if it suits them.
Probably a bigger issue is the width of the bars - the bigger wheels theoretically carry more momentum and therefore (theoretically) need more leverage applied to turn them... in theory...
Having said that, I run standard 580mm flat bars on my bike and don't appear to have trouble negotiating corners. Theory be damned, I say - just do what suits you.
+1
I also run (relatively) narrow flat bars with a negative stem. And I have excessively long chainstays but don't seem to have any problems going around corners. Just ride what feels good.
thelankyman
Likes Dirt
Got a set of Titec J-Bars on my SS 29er. Works well for SS application giving heaps of leverage at 700mm wide and doesnt feel wide (till you met some tight trees)
Guess it depends on what you want from your bike setup. Racing you will want flat bars that are narrow, AM stuff is the opposite. Reckon it is personal perference rather than anything else
Guess it depends on what you want from your bike setup. Racing you will want flat bars that are narrow, AM stuff is the opposite. Reckon it is personal perference rather than anything else
Steve_N
Likes Dirt
Agree with the other posters that it's a personal preference... I run a 630mm carbon flat bar on the race bike but a 630mm low rise on the commuter. I use Ergon grips with built in bar ends on both bikes. Bar height is nearly the same on both bikes relative to the rest of my bike. When I finally get around to building an SS I will probably go with something wider (660mm+), mainly for extra leverage... If I find that this works I may even update the others... we'll see...
iscarrr
Likes Dirt
I think generally 29ers come with flat bars because the front end of the bike is typically higher than the equivalent sizes 26er - basically because it has to accommodate the larger wheel on the front.
People have is talked about wider bars suiting 29ers, helping steering etc - tell you what the first thing i changed on mine was the 690mm stock bars. Got sick of clipping tree's, they didnt have enough sweep and i just found i didnt need bars that wide. Now running 630mm.
People have is talked about wider bars suiting 29ers, helping steering etc - tell you what the first thing i changed on mine was the 690mm stock bars. Got sick of clipping tree's, they didnt have enough sweep and i just found i didnt need bars that wide. Now running 630mm.
I raced for a year on my SS 29er (it's currently doing time as a touring bike) with 580mm bars and loved it. Wide bars may provide leverage for SS but they're not required if you like to spin.
Thanks for the input guys, the question was purely out of curiosity.
Although thinking at SOME stage I will upgrade to a carbon bar (99 bucks on cellbikes...), also think the sweep (or lack of) on the stock bars are a bit of a pain in the wrist.
Guess you don't really know until you try it. Damn this biking thing will be a drain on the mortgage repayments!
Although thinking at SOME stage I will upgrade to a carbon bar (99 bucks on cellbikes...), also think the sweep (or lack of) on the stock bars are a bit of a pain in the wrist.
Guess you don't really know until you try it. Damn this biking thing will be a drain on the mortgage repayments!
ozzybmx
taking a shit with my boobs out
I have just bought a set of Salsa Pro Moto carbons , they come in either 5/11/17 deg backswing and 680mm wide , nice bars to get the front end down. My FS has Syntace Vector 10mm rise and 12deg backswing .
Quite a few of the 2011 29ers are coming with integral and zero stack headtubes to combat the rise at the front, but as said its a completely personal thing on which bar you run.
Quite a few of the 2011 29ers are coming with integral and zero stack headtubes to combat the rise at the front, but as said its a completely personal thing on which bar you run.
rone
Eats Squid
I went for Ragley Carnegie's flat bars. They are some of the most comfortable bars i've used, with their 25 degree sweep, BUT, at 685mm wide they just weren't quite wide enough for me, but i'm 6'3" and 90kg. I'm currently running the Gravity 777's, which are wider and have quite a big sweep for a 'DH' oriented bar and they are perfect for my preferred setup. As always it is entirely subjective...
Anyone want some Carnegie's
Anyone want some Carnegie's
what about grip choices for your bars, i like oury,s + am thinking of trying flat bars , found since converting from a 5 inch bike to a 100mm hardtail ,ourys are the only grips that are comfy enough with the xtra shock i seemed to be gettin through the bars with the shorter travel
workmx
Banned
Lizard Skin Charger grips are very nice too. They dampen vibration like Oury grips without being as chunky.
aaron01
Likes Bikes and Dirt
uhuforrest
Likes Dirt
Was interested in a set of these.
Pity they make the most out of postage, which means your $15 grips end up costing closer to $60
Worthwhile if you really like them, but I have an aversion to profiteering through postage
Instead purchased some JETBLACK foam grips from LBS for $18. (which they fitted for me while I waited at no cost)
Roland
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tomacropod
Likes Dirt
Pretty sure Dirtworks distribute ESI grips in Australia. Will cost you much less than $60 from your LBS...
- Joel
Barspin Imports
Likes Dirt
The geometry (head angle, fork rake) and wheel size of a 29'er means that the front end is much higher and if you 'sit down ride', then your centre of gravity is further back down the bike.
The wider flatter bars and a shorter stem, draw you forward and down over the front wheel, providing more weight on it, so it doesn't wash out in fast cornering. It's about getting you low down over the front end of the bike and getting grip on your front wheel.
Those that just 'sit down ride' with straight arms and stay pretty much perpendicular (with the horizon) and ride slow through the turns will never have an issue. If you like to shred trails, rail berms, and pump your bike for speed wherever possible, the lower and flatter bar setup will be your friend.
It's actually the same theory to downhill bikes, that have extremely slack head angles and raked out front forks etc. You need to keep weight over the front wheel for grip.
The wider flatter bars and a shorter stem, draw you forward and down over the front wheel, providing more weight on it, so it doesn't wash out in fast cornering. It's about getting you low down over the front end of the bike and getting grip on your front wheel.
Those that just 'sit down ride' with straight arms and stay pretty much perpendicular (with the horizon) and ride slow through the turns will never have an issue. If you like to shred trails, rail berms, and pump your bike for speed wherever possible, the lower and flatter bar setup will be your friend.
It's actually the same theory to downhill bikes, that have extremely slack head angles and raked out front forks etc. You need to keep weight over the front wheel for grip.
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workmx
Banned
Which is higher?
I have been thinking about this for a while now.
My 26" Charge Duster was a long head-tube, 5 degree rise stem, 100mm fork and riser bar...
That makes the front end higher than my 29" Haro with heaps of spacers, 5 degree rise stem, suspension corrected rigid fork and Salsa flat bar.
Ends up that the Charge has a higher front end than the Haro...!
Photo to illustrate:
I have been thinking about this for a while now.
My 26" Charge Duster was a long head-tube, 5 degree rise stem, 100mm fork and riser bar...
That makes the front end higher than my 29" Haro with heaps of spacers, 5 degree rise stem, suspension corrected rigid fork and Salsa flat bar.
Ends up that the Charge has a higher front end than the Haro...!
Photo to illustrate:
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