Advice please: Bring 10yr old bike into 2008!

Justin Fox

Likes Bikes and Dirt
LOL.

Speaking of bargain bins.

Apart from the classifieds on Farkin, and eBay. Where else is a great haunt? Council Cleanups in poshy areas perhaps?! Any street markets?

My local bike shops don't seem to have bargain bins...
 

Justin Fox

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Also another question (I'm learning a lot every day here!):

What exactly do I have to do to set up the bike so that there's only one single gear at the front so I can remove the front derailleur and grip shifter off the handle bars?

Thanks in advance for any help on that one.
 

Woodsie

Likes Dirt
It should be as simple as just removing the bits that you don't need, leaving the middle chainring as the only one.

Though not having a front mech will make it more prone to dropping the chain as there is nothing there to guide it. Things you can do to help with this are:
- Reduce the chain length be a couple of links. You won't need to extra length to fit around the big chainring and this will increase the tension on the chain. You can achieve a similar result by putting a a larger middle chainring on.
- Run a chainring with no shifting ramps, ie. a DH ring. A DH ring is designed to keep the chain on, XC rings are specifically designed to make derailing the chain easier.
- Putting a bashguard on can stop the chain dropping to the inside. A full chain device would be over the top for the type of riding you are planning on doing.

If you still have problems then double check that your chainline isn't completely out of whack.
 

AngoXC

Wheel size expert
Woodsie is on fire! Yeow!

Might just add a bit also...
If your planning on just using the single front ring, you may need to purchase the appropriate bolts to affix the middle ring as without the largest ring, the existing bolts are a smidge long. (You could also space them with washers but its probably better to get the said bolts). To get the granny ring off, you are more then likely going to need to remove the crank arm. Just watch out though. If there are no bolts like the ones above, it probably means your chainrings are rivited in place which means you would need say a new crank arm that accepts the 4-bolt pattern. A new crankset off here would not set you back very much at all.
It might be worth investing in say a tool kit at this stage so you dont have to go visiting the bike shop all the time. When you come to taking the derailleur off, you will have to break the chain and if you plan on removing the cassette, you need the tools for that also. It also helps if say you do go Singlespeed yourself and want to change/experiment with different ratios, you can do it quickly yourself. Plus, it teaches you how things are put in place etc. The Park Tool Website is very helpful for all your DIY bike mechanic needs.

In terms of bargains, you will be suprised at what you can get off the council clean ups but the majority of the time, it isnt anything flash. Trawling though the For Sale section here on Farkin is likely to get you a little further, say for cheap cranksets, SS conversion kits, levers and everything cheap. 'Bargain Bins', well you never know whats in them but usually its a whole lot of odds and ends like saddles and tyres etc that bike shops take off new bikes when customers say want to put different items on when they purchase a said bike.
 

Cooch

Likes Dirt
My top 3 sites for cheap (2nd hand and new) bike bits:

1. Farkin
2. eBay
3. www.mtbdirt.com.au

I've even picked up new stuff, off these three sites, cheaper than worn 2nd hand parts!! It's amazing what people will sell - especially if they're upgrading a completely new bike from purchase...

www.chainreactioncycles.com sell the Da Bomb single speed conversion kit and chain tensioner real cheap! Do a search on Da Bomb and you'll see the ss kits and chain device thingy (that replaces a rear derailleur, but works in the same way to keep chain tension on).
 

Justin Fox

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Despite having experience in mountain bikes when I was a kid, and working in a bike store on weekends back in the day too. I feel like a TOTAL NOOB these days.

Being a little lazy doesn't help either. I have a great workshop for my cars and they do all the hard work for me. I'm tempted to find a great "workshop/mechanic" for my bike too but for sure, more excited and keen to buy some tools, a stand too, and do it myself.

You guys are seriously a massive help and a credit to this forum. I really appreciate all the help (I've been doing hours of research a day thanks to links and other threads on this forum).

I'm pretty sure I'll be buying a very nice frame sooner or later, a building my own bike from frame up. That interests me a whole lot more than buying a bike that's already "done".
 

Cooch

Likes Dirt
...

I'm pretty sure I'll be buying a very nice frame sooner or later, a building my own bike from frame up. That interests me a whole lot more than buying a bike that's already "done".
Justin, that's the only way to do it. When you're flowing down some awesome piece of single track on your fully custom boutique bike, thinking to yourself that you put it all together, your way, with your choice of bits - every bolt, every screw, every colour choice, every component. The satisfaction is enormous. It's even especially cool when someone asks "which shop did you buy your bike from? - I want one", and you answer, "Nah, I built the whole thing myself"!! :D

The "Noobs" are those that buy an "out of the box" "off the shop floor" mass produced piece of junk with poor/cheap components, cause they were told it was "the shit" by the bike shop salesperson... and they end up upgrading to a new bike after a year cause they're caught up in the whole "gotta have the latest" cause everyone says so thing... Never really enjoying their bike at all.
 
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Turner_rider

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Spend as little on it as possible.
This is coming from someone that has way too much interest in retro bikes, it'd be OK to throw $75-$150 at it to get working smoothly but any more is a waste.
I agree with Rik except I'd limit spending money to $100 on that bike.

It was a low end bike then and all it is now is a 10+ year old low end bike.

Some of the suggestions although meant with good intent have missed the mark, as there is no way you can bring that bike into this millenium without spending a stupid amount of money.

Ride it as is and save your money for something better if the need arises.
 

Justin Fox

Likes Bikes and Dirt
It's OK. It's not really primarily about the money or the quality of the bike. It's more about having fun and getting up to speed with bicycle maintenance too.

Since starting this post I have already made a few impulse purchases:

Full Service + tubes (should have done this myself but got itchy on day one):
Sun Rims Black Eye 26" front Wheel + Novatec hub $25 delivered
06 WTB CXC riser bars $20 delivered
Wellgo C002 MTB Cleats Bike Pedals $33.52 delivered
Controltech stem 120mm $47 delivered

661 Filter SPD MTB Shoe - 42 Euro $74.95 delivered
WORKSTAND - $149.99
SUPER-B Bike Tool Set $64.99

So thanks again for all the suggestions. I'll post updated pics as I go somewhere else on this forum.
 

Stylin

Likes Bikes
I agree with Rik except I'd limit spending money to $100 on that bike.

It was a low end bike then and all it is now is a 10+ year old low end bike.

Some of the suggestions although meant with good intent have missed the mark, as there is no way you can bring that bike into this millenium without spending a stupid amount of money.

Ride it as is and save your money for something better if the need arises.
I think you missed the point where he said he saw it as a more interesting challenge than having an awesome new out of the box bike....

It's a cheap little project and I know where he's coming from. Incidentally I've also dropped alot of money into my old Supra's back in the day. That's why I'm still eating cold beans;)
 

Rik

logged out
The biggest concern I'd have with this bike now is how it rides, especially with a 120mm stem :eek:
IMO you've overspent already, without even changing things like tyres, cables, grips, brakepads and saddle (the only parts that should have money spent on).

But hey, have fun with this and you'll surely learn a few things about bikes in the process.
 

Customjimmy

Likes Dirt
From experience with old bikes and grandiose dreams, limit yourself to tyres and brake pads, new cables where needed (too late I know). Need a project? Plan one out. Can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear!
 

floody

Wheel size expert
Sorry if I didn't read the whole thread...

Any modern fork up to about 130mm travel will be fine on it, its a '97, they ran a long suspension corrected fork (I know, I had one), and its definitely 1-1/8" steerer.

Forget about discs, just run a good set of Vee-brakes, XT or avid items would be ideal.
If the drivetrain is serviceable, just use it.
However, the crankset used a strange setup where (I think) the outer and small chainrings bolted to the middle one which bolted to the spider. If the chainrings are worn you won't be able to buy a replacement so something like an LX crankset would be your logical progression.

7speed cassettes, chains etc are still easily available.

I think those have gripshift? They were low end shifters in their day, I'd run a set of shimano 7 speed pods. In fact if you need a set, PM me and we can work something out.

For a fork, I'd say Rockshox Tora or similar. I'm assuming the controltech one is a threadless item to go with an upcoming fork upgrade? Otherwise its pissing away money.


I rode one of these a lot when they were new, they are a reasonably light, good handling modern steel frame. The only concessions to modernity it doesn't really have is disc mounts.

Anyway, do what you want.
 

Turner_rider

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I think you missed the point where he said he saw it as a more interesting challenge than having an awesome new out of the box bike....
I'm all for the challenge, its a great way to learn about bikes etc, but as a starting basis for upgrading to modern standards the Hardrock really has limited potential. Alternatively you could keep the bike as is and spend the same or less money on a newer bike (maybe up to mid 00s) and end up with something far more usable in the end. As well as retaining the Hardrock for commuter duties.

I too have sunk quite a few dollars into various old cars and bikes over the years and while its fun you don't want to end up flogging a dead horse. ;)
 

AngoXC

Wheel size expert
Sorry if I didn't read the whole thread...

Any modern fork up to about 130mm travel will be fine on it, its a '97, they ran a long suspension corrected fork (I know, I had one), and its definitely 1-1/8" steerer.
You sure man? That picture looks like it has the quill stem set up that drops down into the fork and is fixed using the expanda bolt...(im sure that set up has a specific name...beyond me for the moment) or did that set up also come in 1 1/8th?
 
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Customjimmy

Likes Dirt
You sure man? That picture looks like it has the quill stem set up that drops down into the fork and is fixed using the expanda bolt...(im sure that set up has a specific name...beyond me for the moment) or did that set up also come in 1 1/8th?
1 1/8th quill stems were made (very rare) but this is not one of them.
 

floody

Wheel size expert
You sure man? That picture looks like it has the quill stem set up that drops down into the fork and is fixed using the expanda bolt...(im sure that set up has a specific name...beyond me for the moment) or did that set up also come in 1 1/8th?
I am certain.
I ran the fork/headset/stem from a mate's hardrock (same year) in another 1-1/8" headtube frame briefly at one point. It was also about about 1.5" longer than my non-suspension corrected fork.
Thus the frame/fork is both 1-1/8" and suspension corrected geometry.

Yes, there were quill setups in 1", 1-1/8", even 1-1/4".

1 1/8th quill stems were made (very rare) but this is not one of them.
1-1/8" Quill stems aren't even remotely rare (well, weren't anyway).
 
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