Definitely worth a test ride next time you swap.
Don't get me wrong. I would love a new Venge (no idea why other than they look cool) and the lack of Discs would in no way stop me buying one.
Alloy VS Carbon Road bike
- Thread starter XYGTHO
- Start date
Don't get me wrong. I would love a new Venge (no idea why other than they look cool) and the lack of Discs would in no way stop me buying one.
XYGTHO
Likes Dirt
Yer not worries about discs or rim brakes. Have rim brakes on my old flat bar and they are fine (except until I brake a spoke). Just happens the new defys all have discs. I would wait but don't think you'd get a better deal than $1600 on the defy advanced. That is $500 off RRP or 24% off.
Otherwise open to second hand also to suit a guy 175cm.
Otherwise open to second hand also to suit a guy 175cm.
Haakon
has an accommodating arse
Spend some proper time on hydro road discs. $20 says you will see the light.
scblack
Leucocholic
Possibly true, but I have no plans to replace my roadie any time soon.
I'd go the carbon one mate. I've got the 2016 Defy Disc 2 in alloy that comes with the Tiagra gruppo and it's been rock solid so far. Would've loved to have the choice you have! But could only stretch for this model.
As for brakes, I haven't used rim brakes since my '98 Apollo Kosciuszko. Maybe they've gotten better since then but I'll stay with discs thanks, lol.
As for brakes, I haven't used rim brakes since my '98 Apollo Kosciuszko. Maybe they've gotten better since then but I'll stay with discs thanks, lol.
Haakon
has an accommodating arse
In that case don't test a roadie with hydros - otherwise you may suddenly find yourself needing to replace your roadie ;-)
XYGTHO
Likes Dirt
Ok so didn't go carbon. And didn't go disc brakes. Also didn't go Giant.
Jonny Sprockets had an unbelievable deal on a 2015 Norco roady with 105 11sp, and not a bad build with carbon seat post, carbon fork with carbon steerer, shimano R050 or something wheels. 50% is hard to beat.
And it looks ace in matt black and orange highlights. So just setting it up with some water bottles and stuff.
So never ridden a road bike. Didn't feel to strange.
But no idea how/what angle to set the bars, hoods, curved part initially. I have only ridden in the yard at work before taking it home.
Any recommendations as a starting point?
When riding through town would you normally rest hand on the top of the hoods and access brakes that way. Obviously with traffic signals need to be ready to pull up. With hands on the top part can't access the brakes.
Think I will break the roady rules and be riding with a camelback. Should be fast compared to what I'm used to.
Jonny Sprockets had an unbelievable deal on a 2015 Norco roady with 105 11sp, and not a bad build with carbon seat post, carbon fork with carbon steerer, shimano R050 or something wheels. 50% is hard to beat.
And it looks ace in matt black and orange highlights. So just setting it up with some water bottles and stuff.
So never ridden a road bike. Didn't feel to strange.
But no idea how/what angle to set the bars, hoods, curved part initially. I have only ridden in the yard at work before taking it home.
Any recommendations as a starting point?
When riding through town would you normally rest hand on the top of the hoods and access brakes that way. Obviously with traffic signals need to be ready to pull up. With hands on the top part can't access the brakes.
Think I will break the roady rules and be riding with a camelback. Should be fast compared to what I'm used to.
Knuckles
Lives under a bridge
Hoods and flat part of bars, parallel with the ground to start.
Hands always on hoods unless climbing or sprinting.
How small are your hands? I've got tiny little mitts, but can still brake and shift from the hoods. I also hydropack it, and wear a mtb lid and baggies on the roadie.
Have shaved my balls though, it's the only concession I'll make to road fashion.
Nice work. I just got a 2015 norco tactic carbon at a price I couldn't knock back. Easy to go hit some hills first thing in the morning. Got any pics of it.
Complete with my mountain bike lights. Still haven't ridden it in the light.
XYGTHO
Likes Dirt
OK cheers mate, you've gone one more step than me with the shaved balls lol. Cheers for the advice. Will start with them level. Have long fingers so should be ok.
XYGTHO
Likes Dirt
Seems to fit me well. Mine is the 55.5cm? I'm 175cm. This is after putting together and taking home. Have adjusted seat height, bars and added bottle cages. Will also be running some xt race pedals.
It is the Valence A1 so I think top alloy model with 105. It is the Forma (female) but looked into this quite a bit and only difference is seat. Its actually not to different to what I run on the MTB, and the stem is like 5-10mm shorter which I think will suit me. And easy changed is needed. And I like this colour combo. Only one 5mm high forma written down under a bottle cage so not noticeable.
Reflectors gone also. They were huge and rattly.
It is the Valence A1 so I think top alloy model with 105. It is the Forma (female) but looked into this quite a bit and only difference is seat. Its actually not to different to what I run on the MTB, and the stem is like 5-10mm shorter which I think will suit me. And easy changed is needed. And I like this colour combo. Only one 5mm high forma written down under a bottle cage so not noticeable.
Reflectors gone also. They were huge and rattly.
Knuckles
Lives under a bridge
Apparently you are required to have a big saddle2bar drop too, for that all important aero effect. Unfortunately, short legs mean I look something like this...
RB 24
Likes Dirt
Hahaha. Seat to bar drop is where it's at!
I have one bike slammed (for cafe and street cred) and the other sitting a spacer of 3mm up off the cone spacer.
Try having the flat of the bars as level as possible and the transition into the hoods flat. XY you could maybe roll your bars forward a little more to try comfort. Of cours the more you roll forward it tends to make you lean further into the bars which may then need them risen so you don't snap in half.
Trial and error.
I was taught to write down every measurement on the bike before you adjusted so you could always go back to factory reset.
And shaved nuts.......all well and good till the ingrown hairs come out to play.
I have one bike slammed (for cafe and street cred) and the other sitting a spacer of 3mm up off the cone spacer.
Try having the flat of the bars as level as possible and the transition into the hoods flat. XY you could maybe roll your bars forward a little more to try comfort. Of cours the more you roll forward it tends to make you lean further into the bars which may then need them risen so you don't snap in half.
Trial and error.
I was taught to write down every measurement on the bike before you adjusted so you could always go back to factory reset.
And shaved nuts.......all well and good till the ingrown hairs come out to play.
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
Very general setup tips, which are subject to variation depending on bar curve: Set the bar angle so there's a flat or slightly dipped transition from bar the shifter hoods. Have the brake lever blades pretty well vertical. It's a common gumby error to crank the bars way up with the levers sticking out at a 45 degree angle, thinking it'll raise their position. It doesn't. This kind of extreme angle cricks the wrists back, so in order to straighten them out results in very bent elbows, which pull the shoulders lower...... Not to mention it's impossible to reach the brakes from the drops when they're like that.
Newer levers are reach adjustable. Peel the rubber hood bach from the peak of the lever; underneath there's a small screw which presses against the head of the brake lever. winding it in will bring the lever closer to the bar, which is handy if you have small hands.
You should ride the vast majority of the time on the hoods, index & middle fingers resting on the brake levers.