[AM] 2014 Giant Trance SX 27.5

Thanks peeps!! ^

Hayden what you do with your Trance now you have a Reign? ;)

Also thought I'd share something I found. I've used amalgamating tape before but only to seal loose ends. never thought to wrap a frame with it until I saw Frameskins sell it.

Can get a 20mm x 10M roll from Jaycar for $20 enough to do 8 chainstays. Cheapest I've found.

Best thing is this stuff is heat water chemical UV resistant. Unlike the inner tube I used which has all cracked and faded after a year. Also super light. Both stays only required 20g of tape in total. The tubes were 90g.

rps20141122_164927.jpg

rps20141122_165138.jpg
 
Thanks peeps!! ^

Hayden what you do with your Trance now you have a Reign? ;)

Also thought I'd share something I found. I've used amalgamating tape before but only to seal loose ends. never thought to wrap a frame with it until I saw Frameskins sell it.

Can get a 20mm x 10M roll from Jaycar for $20 enough to do 8 chainstays. Cheapest I've found.

Best thing is this stuff is heat water chemical UV resistant. Unlike the inner tube I used which has all cracked and faded after a year. Also super light. Both stays only required 20g of tape in total. The tubes were 90g.

View attachment 302822

View attachment 302823

Best thing for chainstay is 3M mastic tape (2228 I think)... best stuff out use it on all my bikes


The trance has been sold on to a buddy of mine who wanted to get into trail riding


Might be headed to buller in feb for the first round of that SRAM endure challenge thingo, will you be there?
 
Best thing for chainstay is 3M mastic tape (2228 I think)... best stuff out use it on all my bikes


The trance has been sold on to a buddy of mine who wanted to get into trail riding


Might be headed to buller in feb for the first round of that SRAM endure challenge thingo, will you be there?


Tempting mate will have to see what the rest of the boys want to do! We are heading up to check out the new Epic trail prob second week of December.

Also going to the Nationals at You Yangs might see you there.

Will be at Yangs this weekend I'll probably take one of the demo Reigns for a spin and see what I might be missing out on. Let's compare notes later ;)
 
Both rotors have had a decent amount of runout since new but over Winter they became quite scored from all the dirt etc. So when the Saints went on they were making a god awful chirping nose on the warped, grooved rotors.

CRC have a cracker deal on the new SRAM Centerline rotors, and from all reviews their design makes them very quiet. I also felt no real difference between the stock Shimano rotors and the ones I fitted with the alloy spider, so I was keen to move back to a 1 piece rotor for more simplicity.

So here goes.

20141206_202132.jpg
 
I spy a rear mounted marsh guard...

did you have to chop/trip/drill to get it to fit?

No modding needed although I did put an extra zip tie on the seat stay slightly above the holes in the guard, to pull it up tight against the stay to avoid rubbing on tyre.

Also at near bottom out it touches the seat tube but doesn't make any noise so not noticeable at all. Keeps most of the mud and dirt out of suspension and shock.


20141212_212626.jpg

20141212_212644.jpg
 
Last edited:
Happy New Year Everyone!!!

A few updates:

1.
Dropped a chain recently on some heavy rooted sections. Only once in the whole year but too often for me.

Picked up MRP AMG guide which required taking off the Hope ring bash guard, and I thought to take off the C-Guide Eco tensioner as well to reduce drag a bit. This is why I didn't go for any of the guides with integrated tensioner.

Pretty happy with outcome so far it is quiet and no rubbing at all. Plus I'm not going to be doubting the chain again.

The only caveat for anyone buying chainguides with polycarbonate parts in it is that there is a list of chain lubes and degreasers strictly forbidden to be used otherwise it can destroy the plastic. Check first before crying later;)


IMG_4512.jpg


2.
Cranked up the tension on the derailleur clutch (to the maximum of Shimano spec) and the fucking thing snapped mid ride (common issue). Wiggle were total arsehats and insisted I send the derailleur back to them but gave no guarantee they would warranty it. Despite having sent them several links to people reporting this issue they wouldn't budge.

Took clutch off an old Zee I had in the spares box, installed it in the XT, and am back up and running again.

unnamed.jpg


3.
Crown Creak in Fox Forks is driving me fucking mad. Have tried Loctite 209, Loctite 609, WD40, but it only lasts about a ride. But during that one ride the silence is pure bliss and all I can hear is tyres, Hope hub, and dirt.

Am trying now the technique of taking the wheel off and flexing the forks to work the Loctite into all the small voids whilst it is curing. I also found the through axle footnut to be set too loose so have tightened this to Fox spec and this should reduce flex in the fork.

Will report back later to see what difference it makes.
 
Absolutely awesome bike. I am in love with this thing. Please don't hate me but I stole your idea for the rear mounted mud guard - works a treat. Guy at my LBS said it's the best rear guard he has seen (also mentioned he has seen some shockers over the years). Don't worry though, I didn't take the credit :)

Looking forward to seeing what's in store next - hopefully there's a more permanent method to eliminate the crown creak.
 
Absolutely awesome bike. I am in love with this thing. Please don't hate me but I stole your idea for the rear mounted mud guard - works a treat. Guy at my LBS said it's the best rear guard he has seen (also mentioned he has seen some shockers over the years). Don't worry though, I didn't take the credit :)

Looking forward to seeing what's in store next - hopefully there's a more permanent method to eliminate the crown creak.

All good mate and thanks for the feedback!

I can't take credit for the rear guard either I saw it on a mate's bike and just had to have the same thing ;)

Crown creak is reduced now but still there sometimes so I can live with it for the meantime. Although it is not happening at all when removing the wheels and flexing the fork legs so I suspect it may only be creaking at the steerer now. Will Loctite that too and see how it all goes.
 
general update and long term gear review

1. Fox Fork creak/front end noise

Is now mostly gone in fact I can't remember the last time I heard it creak. There are a number of things which have contributed to resolving this (in no particular order).

- Loctite on fork stanchion/crown junction (tried 290 first, then 609)
- Dismantled headset and greased race, all bearing cups and stem/steerer interface
- Loctite on fork crown/steerer junction
- Set front through-axle torque in accordance with Fox guidelines
- Wrapped internally routed cables with rubber amalgamating tape


2. Light Bicycle wheels

Aluminium nipples have corroded on 5 month old carbon rims.

I don't know how I ever got talked into saving 20g by using aluminium nipples, so now I have paid for my weenieness by getting both wheels re-built with brass nipples so I am not left by the trailside when the aluminium ones finally let go.

Props to Astro Boy Racer in Collingwood for re-building my wheels.

This alu-carbon reaction is real, so check your rims out before the nipples disintegrate:
20150309_185710.jpg


3. Drivetrain

Wiggle replaced the derailleur under warranty after receiving the old one back, so all is good. It is apparent Shimano have now revised the clutch mechanism with a heavier duty bracket but it is the same part # so it's a luck of draw really as to whether you receive old or new stock.

Found chain was 0.75% worn so replaced it as it was starting to ghost shift a little. The Wolf Tooth 32T then started crunching like all hell, and the 28T cog on the Leonardi cassette jumping off under load. Put old new chain back on and all back to normal.

So I would say that the Wolf Tooth Ring and Leonardi cassette have lasted one season and 1,700Kms. Probably would have lasted longer if I replaced the chain earlier. 1x10 is always going to wear the chainrings more quickly than 3x.

The Wolf Tooth teeth look a bit weird; are some bent or just wearing in a shark tooth pattern?
20150314_190536.jpg

Here's how the Leonardi cassette held up. I will miss the beautiful CNC design of the spider.
20150314_190646.jpg

Now running a OneUp 32T chainring and 40T rear cog with the optional 16T replacing the standard 15T & 17T. The remaining cogs remain Shimano XT. With all cogs except the 40T now in steel, and alternating between 2 chains every couple of months, I hope to get longer out of these new gears.

IMG_4517--.jpg


Didn't really like the loud artwork on the ring so I positioned it behind the crank arm:
IMG_4515--.jpg


4. Tyres

Still stoked with the Magic Mary but not so much with their durability. Have put around 800Km on them and the centre knobs still have plenty of meat but the shoulders are torn and missing chunks. Is this a characteristic of softer compound on the sides and/or running them on wide rims?

20150303_181910.jpg

After slashing 2 Rock Razors on the rear I am pissed. Second one was brand new and slashed in the middle of a race, which involved pushing bike back to village and to the shop to buy a new tyre then re-join the race. Maxxis was all they had so opted for a High Roller 2 Exo 3C.

It was a pretty good tyre good on straights, braking, and technical climbing, but not so much leaned over hard on a wide rim. The shoulder knobs end up being on the normal contact patch so you are trying to grip with sidewall where there is no tread.

Have just fitted some Minion HR2 which are reportedly much better for wide rims as they are a rounder profile.

Maxxis should start releasing bigger Exo carcasses now with all the wide rims in the market. Rumor has it they will have a 27.5x2.5 Exo Minion DHF out around Jul/Aug this year. Until then I will be keeping the Magic Marys.
 
What compound is that on the Magic Mary? Vert or Trailstar? (I imagine you're not using Pacestar on the front)

Is 800km no good? I'd think 800km of hard riding and still having a tyre intact would be pretty awesome, considering the terrain... :p
 
Don't forget - you can get more life out of a NW chainring by flipping it around & reversing the direction...
 
What compound is that on the Magic Mary? Vert or Trailstar? (I imagine you're not using Pacestar on the front)

Is 800km no good? I'd think 800km of hard riding and still having a tyre intact would be pretty awesome, considering the terrain... :p

Trailstar.

I expect tyres to wear but not rip off in chunks and crack!

Was looking at many demo bikes up at buller all with Maxxis in various stages of wear, and they just wear down all knobs relatively smoothly and don't have chunks breaking off and cracked shoulders etc.

Don't forget - you can get more life out of a NW chainring by flipping it around & reversing the direction...

Thanks for the tip.

What about the ring having a countersunk ridge on the inside face for the bolts? If ring is flipped then wouldn't the bolts be too short as the nut would sit further out?

Hey teK,
Look fwd to see what you think of the minions. Have you gone dhr2 front and rear?
Cheers
Gav

Magic mary on front and DHR2 on rear.

Rode on weekend and the DHR are different to the Rock Razor but overall I like them.

Pros: Much better traction when braking, on technical climbs, sandy/loose on hardpack, and wet treeroots. Rolling speed downhill is about the same.

Cons: More drag uphill on hard pack and road. Rolling speed on flatland is a bit slower.

Other: The tyre when leaned over behaves differently to the Rock Razor. The Rock Razor has increasing grip when leaned over once the big shoulder knobs dig in, but with the DHR2 the grip is more consistent until the point when it finally breaks away.

So with the RR it's more like slip, grip, slip as you are leaning over, but the DHR2 it's grip, grip, slip. Just takes a bit of getting used to but I definitely like them more than the high roller 2, at least on these rims anyway.
 
Thanks for the tip.

What about the ring having a countersunk ridge on the inside face for the bolts? If ring is flipped then wouldn't the bolts be too short as the nut would sit further out?
The countersinking is more aesthetic than anything. Run longer bolts of need be.

These rings aren't cheap, get all the life out of 'me you can ;-)
 
Hey Tek,

Questions about your chain guide mod to remove lower roller:

1. did you buy a different taco or just cut it off?
2. have you noticed significantly less pedal drag?
3. has it dropped a chain / slapped heaps?

I have the same bike.. considering the same thing.

Sorry if i missed info on this earlier in the thread..

Cheers
 
Back
Top