ROAD Ashes has a Ful Väg

ashes_mtb

Has preferences
This is my shitty road bike named Ful Väg (Swedish for ‘ugly road’).

It’s a 2006 Trek 1000 SL I paid way too much for ($150). Have always been a vocal anti-roadie but I’m getting less judgemental in my old age (opposite of what’s supposed to happen) and a mate was keen for me to join him on some rides so I thought I’d give it a whirl.

Was rideable when purchased, but grabbed it on the way to trails one night and didn’t realise how bad a shape it was in. Most bolts rusted to hell and some galvanic corrosion around the bolt bosses. Must have been sitting in a vat of some sort of electrolyte to end up that bad.

Not to be perturbed, I cleaned it up as best I could and started using it. First decent ride saw the rear wheel self destruct. Ordered a fresh set of cheap Shimano R501’s and committed to a full strip down and respray. Fork turned out ok with a blue/orange blend, but I couldn’t be stuffed painting the whole frame so just shot some matte clear on it and left it looking rough. Also picked up a cheap set of hollowtech cranks as the old square tapers weren’t really up to carrying my weight.

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Brake calipers were in a really bad way. I managed to pull them apart and get them moving ok, but they’re going to need to be replaced soon. Quick bit of research suggests Shimano have applied 4 different pull ratios to their road brakes since 2000, which makes finding a compatible set a bit trickier. FFS.

Landsvägscyklar är skit och borde förbjudas. (Ancient Swedish proverb).
 

ausdb

Being who he is
What Roscharch said. Seems they’re Super SLR, and not compatible with New Super SLR or the latest SLR-EV or the old SLR and whatever came before that. Madness.
The older stuff is reasonably compatible despite what Shamino says. I think I have something from around that era, I'll check tonight.
 

ForkinGreat

Knows his Brassica oleracea
@ashes_mtb both your brake calipers have the lever (that makes it easier to remove the wheels) in the open or semi-open position.
when properly adjusted for use, the lever on the caliper should be fully down / 6 o'clock.

Does the bike have a fork with an alloy steerer? If it's a carbon fork with a carbon steerer, you want to be using an expander plug, not a star nut.
If it's an alloy steerer on the fork, then all good, as you were :)
 

Rorschach

Didnt pay $250 for this custom title
@ashes_mtb both your brake calipers have the lever (that makes it easier to remove the wheels) in the open or semi-open position.
when properly adjusted for use, the lever on the caliper should be fully down / 6 o'clock.
Fair point. Rode my old roadie round without the brakes in properly and that was fun the first time I used the brakes...
 

ashes_mtb

Has preferences
@ashes_mtb both your brake calipers have the lever (that makes it easier to remove the wheels) in the open or semi-open position.
when properly adjusted for use, the lever on the caliper should be fully down / 6 o'clock.

Does the bike have a fork with an alloy steerer? If it's a carbon fork with a carbon steerer, you want to be using an expander plug, not a star nut.
If it's an alloy steerer on the fork, then all good, as you were :)
Cheers. I wasn’t sure which direction the lever should go, but it’s kind of academic as the levers at both ends are refusing to move at all.

Alloy steerer luckily.

Thanks for the tips!
 

ForkinGreat

Knows his Brassica oleracea
Cheers. I wasn’t sure which direction the lever should go, but it’s kind of academic as the levers at both ends are refusing to move at all.

Alloy steerer luckily.

Thanks for the tips!
spraying WD40 or Boeshield T9 on/into the caliper levers may help. Also into the Brake/Shift levers
 

ashes_mtb

Has preferences
Get some of the current gen 105 calipers. Pull ratio can be changed by the tension in the inner wire (It's been about 7 years since I ran rim brakes so take with a pinch of salt)
Have been close to doing just that.
calipers are among the cheaper parts, the brake/shift levers are the exxy ones.

what cassette (inc # of cogs) & front/rear derailleurs are they?
Sora levers (8sp), Tiagra derailleur, 8 speed cassette.

I’ll ride it for a while and decide whether I even like the whole drop bar thing. Then I’ll either flat bar it or maybe put a newer groupset on it.

Leaning towards the modern 105 calipers either way.
 

bear the bear

Is a real bear
Have been close to doing just that.


Sora levers (8sp), Tiagra derailleur, 8 speed cassette.

I’ll ride it for a while and decide whether I even like the whole drop bar thing. Then I’ll either flat bar it or maybe put a newer groupset on it.

Leaning towards the modern 105 calipers either way.
Let me know as I have a few parts in the spares box for this if you go round bars.
 

Rorschach

Didnt pay $250 for this custom title
The new 105 R7000 is fantastic stuff, running it on my roadie, and I think the current Tiagra rates pretty well too. If you flatbar it, you can buy flat bar Tiagra shifters too
 

ashes_mtb

Has preferences
Let me know as I have a few parts in the spares box for this if you go round bars.
Cool. Let me know what you’ve got and I can factor it in to the over analysis I’m working through :)

The new 105 R7000 is fantastic stuff, running it on my roadie, and I think the current Tiagra rates pretty well too. If you flatbar it, you can buy flat bar Tiagra shifters too
There’s actually a set of levers, shifters and rear derailleur going cheap at the moment. Just need to get some more rides in; at this stage I hate the ergonomics of drop bar setup, but I guess that’s to be expected having only ridden mtbs my whole life.
 

Rorschach

Didnt pay $250 for this custom title
Yeah the ‘head down, arse up’ bit takes some getting used to but it’s pretty comfy once it’s all set-up. I can do much further more comfortably on my roadie than I can on my mtb, it really needs to be fitted reasonably well though
 
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