aviation welding australia, any good on mtb fix
- Thread starter safreek
- Start date
stirk
Burner
Purple, you mix the red and blue together for best results.
Flow-Rider
Burner
I hope ya not serious, have a think about it 'grease and loctite' :whistle:
What's the problem ? Just make sure that you put the loctite onto the thread before the grease or else the loctite won't adhere to the metal.
:thumb:
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
Follow stork's advice on mixing the red and the blue to make a purple. The shade of which is really up to you and your needs in this situation. The more red = better bonding in hotter environments. The more blue = better bonding of metals. It's not often stork is spot on, but o copied his recipe on one of my bikes a while back and it came out stronger and lighter.
Have you stripped the rig down yet and cleaned it up?
link1896
Mr Greenfield
Flow-Rider
Burner
Yes, but asked so randomly sounds a bit strange.
link1896
Mr Greenfield
true
hard to pick up on safreek's understanding with no body language or tone.
I find adding loctite primer 7649 into the mix helps. tastes ace too!
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
I prime with WD-40.
safreek
*******
Sorry if it sounded strange but I hear people talk about the grease on the bolts, I don't grease bolts or use loctite, never have. Purple for strength sounds good but if it makes it lighter bugger that. But seriously loctite or grease, would grease not allow bolts to slip easier. I have pulled the forks off and one of the bearings seems rooted compared to the top one so I hope that is the problem. Have riden it without the seat( and post) and still creaky. Still want to do all the bolts anyway so info still needed. Sorry about no emoticons to give clarity but they won't load
stirk
Burner
I recall a post from John circa 2014 re applying grease to bolts with thread lock already applied.
Chopsticks then backed up the method.
I advise using blue Loctite for components you don't touch much like rotor, caliper, stem and derailleur bolts.
On parts like pedals and seat posts and everything else a dab of anti sieze or grease is a good idea and won't effect the parts ability to stay where it is when torqued correctly.
Just don't apply grease to a bolt with pre-applied threadlock on it, the fact the bolt manufacturers applied the stuff tells you it's best practice to use a locking compound on the bolt.
As for the noise, you need to isolate it, so removing seat is a start, could have just stood up and pedalled there
What about the front end tests I mentioned earlier?
I feel for you, noises like creaks are annoying.
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
Another one just jumps into the boat...
I grease everything that moves or has contact with something else. I've applied loctite to a few components over the years, but it isn't my usual approach and only in extreme situations of "why the fuck is that loose again???????".
Your headset may well be the issue. Pop the cups out of the frame, clean surfaces, grease surfaces, insert cups. Clean bearing races and bearings, apply grease, insert...thick sticky gooey grease. Get the idea? All over the place front to back, every contact surface and every thread and every spot that looks like it might be the issue. In the meantime I'm going to put my flame suit on and ignore the loctite Fan Bois. Bottom bracket, pedal stubs, seat collar, spoke nipples, suspension pivots, seat rails, under your grips, stem bolts...everywhere.
safreek
*******
ok, have replaced the headset bearing that was rooted, feel as though I was rooted as well,38 bucks for a lower bearing. have got new bolts for the fork crowns and replaced. Recon I should get new bearings for the pivots but cant find any info on how to do it, seems a whole set of bearings for it is only about 36 bucks. would this be an easy task and should the bolts come out easily, I tried pulling another frame apart and the bolts kept turning but would not come out.
The main reason I ask this is when I get the parts I want to do the job straight away and keep riding
The main reason I ask this is when I get the parts I want to do the job straight away and keep riding
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
I've got a whole bunch of fresh headsets that will fit your frame. Next time you want to bleed money shoot me a pm.
safreek
*******
yeah, should of thought of buying on roto but had convinced myself that the bearing was the prob, IT WASNT. should I go to the fuckwit thread for paying near 40 for a bearing
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
I suspect the problem will be that this is a very old bike designed to take a very heavy thrashing. During it life as a hard core s&m submissive it's likely been looked after to a mediocre level and is now in serious need of love and tenderness. As such every little bit will be wanting to be cleaned and greased and reassembled and tensioned and refitted square and on and on...there is no short cuts or easy routes and a lot of things will need replacing.
safreek
*******
cheers, do suspension bolts generally have a set torque for them or is it just do them the tightest I can.
finding it hard to track down info about doing the linkages and such. Will be emailing cove today if they still exist.
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
I'm not one for torque settings. Just do them up tight, but not too tight. Given your love of weights go easy.
A well set up workshop should be able to do it, but it will be $$$. If you have a bearing specialist in your hood they may have suitable fresh bearings. Buy quality though.