AM Banshee Titan

@northvanguy Just got some first hand info from someone who has the Zeroback plate:

"I got one. Short - it works, bike feels smoother over square edge hits. There are 2 downsides, it's noisy and small 12T pulley gets worn quite quick. International shipping from Rulezman is kind of expensive, so are spare pars (I guess just premium niche product pricing thing). I would prefer to be able to fit some generic idler pulley (GT fury has 12T, NSB makes stainless steel one). I tried going with plastic jockey wheel but it broke quickly due to the loads. If You plan to change frame anytime I would probably go with Ochain if anything or buy WRP ratchet thing for DT swiss hub instead."
 
teK-- said:
@northvanguy Just got some first hand info from someone who has the Zeroback plate:

"I got one. Short - it works, bike feels smoother over square edge hits. There are 2 downsides, it's noisy and small 12T pulley gets worn quite quick. International shipping from Rulezman is kind of expensive, so are spare pars (I guess just premium niche product pricing thing). I would prefer to be able to fit some generic idler pulley (GT fury has 12T, NSB makes stainless steel one). I tried going with plastic jockey wheel but it broke quickly due to the loads. If You plan to change frame anytime I would probably go with Ochain if anything or buy WRP ratchet thing for DT swiss hub instead."
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Very interesting.

Given my history with idler pulleys it's probably not a solution for me..... pic is the idler I just pulled off my Norco Range... it was still working!
 

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northvanguy said:
Very interesting.

Given my history with idler pulleys it's probably not a solution for me..... pic is the idler I just pulled off my Norco Range... it was still working!
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Jeebus. What does the rest of the bike look like!!?!?
 
In my defence... the Norco idlers are absolute junk. And if you want the NS Billet one they only do it in alloy and costs and arm and a leg so you're stuck. You need a new one probably every 6 months with moderate riding.
 
northvanguy said:
In my defence... the Norco idlers are absolute junk. And if you want the NS Billet one they only do it in alloy and costs and arm and a leg so you're stuck. You need a new one probably every 6 months with moderate riding.
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If you own the bike for a while surely getting the NS one would pay for itself or are the idlers from Norco cheap?
 
shiny said:
If you own the bike for a while surely getting the NS one would pay for itself or are the idlers from Norco cheap?
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NS Billet ones are alloy only for the Range. They do make steel for some bikes but not the range.

I’ll probably risk it next but it’s $90 vs $45
 
This really makes apparent how much wear and load goes through these idler wheels...

Say for a 32T chainring and a 12T idler that means it is spinning at 2.66 times the rate of your cranks, plus carrying a heap of load as the suspension keeps pulling on it. I'm not surprised they are wearing so quickly.
 
Interesting about these idler wheels. I did a couple thousand km on the Highlander before I sold it and the idler was fine. Had a spare but never needed it.
I wonder if it’s got something to do with the float on the Deviate bikes which some people thought was a fault but the idler wiggled around a bit therefore not constantly fighting against chain line as much.
 
For what it's worth, my mate has a pair of Forbiddens and they came with idler pulleys made of cheese.
 
Jpez said:
Interesting about these idler wheels. I did a couple thousand km on the Highlander before I sold it and the idler was fine. Had a spare but never needed it.
I wonder if it’s got something to do with the float on the Deviate bikes which some people thought was a fault but the idler wiggled around a bit therefore not constantly fighting against chain line as much.
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Nearly 3000km on my Deviate idler before I changed funnily enough to a NS idler. First one was noisy and did not float and was replaced. Second one seems better have not had much time on it due to back issues keeping me off the bike but the few rides I got in it was quiet. I thought NS idlers were stock on Forbidden now?
 
shiny said:
Nearly 3000km on my Deviate idler before I changed funnily enough to a NS idler. First one was noisy and did not float and was replaced. Second one seems better have not had much time on it due to back issues keeping me off the bike but the few rides I got in it was quiet. I thought NS idlers were stock on Forbidden now?
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I remember on the Deviate group there were always people asking why their idler seemed to wiggle about including myself. The response was it was designed that way. Seems they might be onto something.
 
Jpez said:
I remember on the Deviate group there were always people asking why their idler seemed to wiggle about including myself. The response was it was designed that way. Seems they might be onto something.
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It makes sense to have float in the idler.

Consider the chainring and the angle of the chain in the extreme gears, except with an idler there is a lot less chain wrap.

Reminds me of when I used to have a lower chain guide with idler, and having 1mm of spacers more or less than optimal would cause the chain to be jammed or fall off.

Just like the Trek Slash debacle, where the lower idler guide came with the incorrect amount of spacers from the factory.
 
teK-- said:
It makes sense to have float in the idler.

Consider the chainring and the angle of the chain in the extreme gears, except with an idler there is a lot less chain wrap.

Reminds me of when I used to have a lower chain guide with idler, and having 1mm of spacers more or less than optimal would cause the chain to be jammed or fall off.

Just like the Trek Slash debacle, where the lower idler guide came with the incorrect amount of spacers from the factory.
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Total sense! Do the Range and Forbidden bikes have float? There’s obviously a lot more of them out there but I’ve seen a lot more chat about worn idlers on those bikes.
 
Jpez said:
Total sense! Do the Range and Forbidden bikes have float?
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Not officially but if you are moron and forget to reinstall the idler tightly enough after a drivetrain clean it's actually fine. Ask me how I know. It's like the designers built some tolerance in to account for variable owner diligence..
 
@teK-- how tall are you? I'm considering upgrading my small rune v3 to a medium titan 3.2 running mullet. I am only 165cm and have been riding small all my life with relatively long stem (40-50mm). Tempted to try upsizing to a medium with super stumpy stem like 30mm as i'm kinda in between sizes, but afraid it's gonna be too much top tube. I've tried medium frames (Liteville 601, Pole evolink), but none have worked thus far - top tube always feels too long and too much of a stretch.
 
gippyz said:
@teK-- how tall are you? I'm considering upgrading my small rune v3 to a medium titan 3.2 running mullet. I am only 165cm and have been riding small all my life with relatively long stem (40-50mm). Tempted to try upsizing to a medium with super stumpy stem like 30mm as i'm kinda in between sizes, but afraid it's gonna be too much top tube. I've tried medium frames (Liteville 601, Pole evolink), but none have worked thus far - top tube always feels too long and too much of a stretch.
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Hey mate 172cm here, and my arms aren't particularly long for my height either.

Whether the Medium will fit you depends not only on the reach, but also the stack height, and how you're going to configure the bike.

I'm assuming you will set it up as a mullet? Also will you run a 170 or 160 fork?

The Banshee mullet charts assume a 160 fork, so if you go a 170 fork for example, that might help by shortening the reach by around 4mm. The stack height and head tube length on these are pretty generous. Unless you are riding steeps all the time, you may end up running minimal spacers and a 20mm (or less) rise bar. It's not the kind of frame to run lots of spacers just to bring the bars closer to you.

The titan has long chainstays, so if you run a 32mm stem then you will need to ride aggressively over the bars to get good grip out of the front tyre and stop it from lifting on climbs.

Compared to other modern enduro frames, I'd say the reach on the Titan is a bit shorter than average. Some people do go a size up on the Titan and just go super short stem with the saddle forward a bit more. (Dave Rulezman for example).

Another thing to consider is the seatpost insertion depth is not the best on this frame, so for your height it is likely you will only get 150mm drop and that is using a really low stack post like a Oneup V3.

Ultimately you can make this bike fit so long as you are clear what kind of bike you want... it is not going to be a super response whippy playful thing. Where it will shine is its high stiffness, and stability at high speeds.
 
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