moorey
call me Mia
Isn't it a rule of thumb, red labeled is sealed bearings, non red is Cup n come?Yeah they're good. I've had a few but thier freehubs and axles are heavy. Solid hubs as you say though (no cones!).
Isn't it a rule of thumb, red labeled is sealed bearings, non red is Cup n come?Yeah they're good. I've had a few but thier freehubs and axles are heavy. Solid hubs as you say though (no cones!).
Who cares, cones are so 90's. I have no idea why anyone would still make cones.. unless you're talking about the ones Dazzlers makes.Isn't it a rule of thumb, red labeled is sealed bearings, non red is Cup n come?
Yeah, that's why Hope make a premium hub called the Cup'n'Cone Pro 5 that costs twice as much.Good cup-n-cone are better sealed than cartridge (sealed? not really) bearings. They also handle cornering loads better.
While I understand the theory, do you reckon there's a rider on the DH or enduro world circuit running cup n cone? Cornering is kinda important to them.Good cup-n-cone are better sealed than cartridge (sealed? not really) bearings. They also handle cornering loads better.
If you aren't able to build the wheel yourself this is an expensive operation. I did it once a few years ago and could have made a significant contribution to a completely new wheelset by the final cost of hub + build + spokes. Have a look at the price of a wheel build on crc as a guide to whether it is worth it or not.Looking at purchasing a secondhand set of stans flow ex wheels but will need to change the rear hub.
Firstly not sure if it's worth it or wait for a set that has a suitable hub.
Secondly what is a decent hub for the money etc?
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See..?Either way, given last weeks advice on wheels from os, it would need to be a good deal. 80 for a rebuild, plus spokes, plus the cost of a hub.
Sure you don't just need end caps?
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Cones...the size of cups! Must he a bucket set up.Cones? You what m8?
There will be some poor bastard with a shimano sponsorship out there.While I understand the theory, do you reckon there's a rider on the DH or enduro world circuit running cup n cone? Cornering is kinda important to them.
Surely they wouldn't make him ride their hubs if the wanted POSITIVE exposure....would be like running Crank Bros wheels.There will be some poor bastard with a shimano sponsorship out there.
I personally wouldn't touch a Nukeproof rear hub again. The Pawls are very weak and break/shear off I went through 2 sets the second only lasting about 300km before I replaced it with a Hope. Not much fun pushing rolling out 10km.Picked up a nuke proof 3 in 1 rear hub a couple of months ago for $63. Ex display. Can't fault it so far. They seem to pop up on a regular basis on CRC
Imagine running a Crankt bros rim on a shimano hub with a Clark's rotor...a wheel made in heaven.Surely they wouldn't make him ride their hubs if the wanted POSITIVE exposure....would be like running Crank Bros wheels.
Hold my beer. A guy on Facebook is asking $200 for s/h araya rims on acera hubs with no name discs....and $50 for a well munted x9 mech.Imagine running a Crankt bros rim on a shimano hub with a Clark's rotor...a wheel made in heaven.
How is this not a story about how you now own this valuable item?Hold my beer. A guy on Facebook is asking $200 for s/h araya rims on acera hubs with no name discs....and $50 for a well munted x9 mech.
You have no idea how hard it was not to troll.
Coz I'm NIL out:How is this not a story about how you now own this valuable item?
Flow mk3 for the win, but Easton ARC are crazy cheap on crc currentlyThanks for the advice lads, I think it might be a good idea to wait for a build that fits.
Any recommendations on decent rims?
After something that can handle some abuse, but not crazy heavy.
Are the stans flow ex a good choice?
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45mm wide rims..!!! Almost makes a boy consider trying something new.
They are cheeeeeep, and wide!Flow mk3 for the win, but Easton ARC are crazy cheap on crc currently
Go 35mm. They'll be bonza.They are cheeeeeep, and wide!
Do 2.3 magic Marys and high rollers go ok on a rim that wide?
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