BIKE RACKS AND CARRIERS FOR CARS MEGATHREAD - all questions asked and answered here

Haakon

has an accommodating arse
A mate of mine had this Gripsport one that attaches under the tow ball.
View attachment 395711
View attachment 395712
That looks secure. Pain to fit though… Needs to have an adapter compact enough to leave fitted to the bar, not having to bolt it up with the ball every time…

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, my German clampy thing is awesome - drop it on the ball and pull the handle down. Literally a three second job to install it.
 

komdotkom

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Has anyone got any experience with the VelociRAX? I can't see much difference between this and the others except a few hundred dollars.
 

Smiker

Likes Dirt
I tested the 412. Nice rack, lower weight limit than some. It can only be fitted so far into your hitch given the expanding wedge system. This means it can still clear a spare tyre though, which is handy. Having the dampening assembly to lower it down is awesome, especially for the price. It doesn't lift it back up, but it does mean it won't fall on you with the full force of gravity! They have a lot of models, each one has different clearance between the bikes - the details are on their site. But the 4-bike 412 is pretty generous, for their range.
 

richie_gt

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I have a vertical rack (custom - no brand name) with 2 inch square hitch for a year now. From day dot I’ve been dealing with ‘wobble’.

Solutions have been using are anti-rattle hitch pin (sort of fixed it until I stripped the thread), shims (reduced wobble) and anti-rattle clamp (worked but cheap eBay job and I stripped the threads).

I slot the rack into a family members new Ute and it has a bolt about 50mm into the hitch - anti-rattle I assume - my towbar doesn’t have this! WTF! All used was a hitch pin and did up the bolt and no wobble!

So…could I/should I think about getting a bolt drilled and tapped into my towbar? Or does anyone have a recommendation for a good anti-wobble clamp? I’m reluctant to waste my money on any more shit bolts/clamps
 

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
I have a vertical rack (custom - no brand name) with 2 inch square hitch for a year now. From day dot I’ve been dealing with ‘wobble’.

Solutions have been using are anti-rattle hitch pin (sort of fixed it until I stripped the thread), shims (reduced wobble) and anti-rattle clamp (worked but cheap eBay job and I stripped the threads).

I slot the rack into a family members new Ute and it has a bolt about 50mm into the hitch - anti-rattle I assume - my towbar doesn’t have this! WTF! All used was a hitch pin and did up the bolt and no wobble!

So…could I/should I think about getting a bolt drilled and tapped into my towbar? Or does anyone have a recommendation for a good anti-wobble clamp? I’m reluctant to waste my money on any more shit bolts/clamps
I have had 2 of the SingleTrail vertical racks now, a new one and a V1 which I just sold, the anti wobble on both is a sophisticated work of art, its awesome. Even more so on the new V3.

But...

Just as good and works 100%, I used this on my ISI for nearly 10yrs and still have it, a rock solid way of stopping wobble.

Get yourself a 100mm bolt that fits the hitch hole and nut, weld the nut to a piece of plate that fits up yer 50mm hitch. Forget about adhesive.

isi hitch.jpg


Fit the plate to the inside of you hitch. As per number 1 into number 2.

isi hitch 2.jpg


Line it up with the hole you require for your car, missus car, mates car etc....

Adhesive... poke a stick welder in there and tack the plate in place :cool:

You could even wind the bolt in to hold it in the right place to get the outside tack in place, then remove the bolt and poke the stick welder through the bolt hole to tack the inside.

Next is to work out how much of the thread you need to just go through the nut plate and car hitch thickness, then grind the excess off. This is wasted threads that you do not need to be winding in every time you fit the bolt.

See mine after 10yrs of use and about 100,000km behind vehicles and on a caravan.

20221231_200011.jpg



Drill a hole big enough to fit a padlock to.

When the bolt is tightened, it pulls the bike rack tongue against the hitch side wall and its never moving. I even had a cheap ratchet with the correct socket in my 'hitch roll' that stayed in the car.

Cheap, simple and 100% effective.

Well seeing I'm working all weekend and heading to work in the morning for a drug and alcohol test at 6am, times have changed, should be partying and drinking piss... instead on GravelBurn posting pics and nonsense at 8:30pm on NYE ;)
 
Last edited:

richie_gt

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I have had 2 of the SingleTrail vertical racks now, a new one and a V1 which I just sold, the anti wobble on both is a sophisticated work of art, its awesome. Even more so on the new V3.

But...

Just as good and works 100%, I used this on my ISI for nearly 10yrs and still have it, a rock solid way of stopping wobble.

Get yourself a 100mm bolt that fits the hitch hole and nut, weld the nut to a piece of plate that fits up yer 50mm hitch. Forget about adhesive.

View attachment 395832

Fit the plate to the inside of you hitch. As per number 1 into number 2.

View attachment 395833

Line it up with the hole you require for your car, missus car, mates car etc....

Poke a stick welder in there and tack the fucker in place :cool:

You could even wind the bolt in to hold it in the right place to get the outside tack in place, then remove the bolt and poke the stick welder through the bolt hole to tack the inside.

Next is to work out how much of the thread you need to just go through the nut plate and car hitch thickness, then grind the excess off. This is wasted threads that you do not need to be winding in every time you fit the bolt.

See mine after 10yrs of use and about 100,000km behind vehicles and on a caravan.

View attachment 395835


Drill a hole big enough to fit a padlock to.

When the bolt is tightened, it pulls the bike rack tongue against the hitch side wall and its never moving. I even had a cheap ratchet with the correct socket in my 'hitch roll' that stayed in the car.

Cheap, simple and 100% effective.

Well seeing I'm working all weekend and heading to work in the morning for a drug and alcohol test at 6am, times have changed, should be partying and drinking piss... instead on GravelBurn posting pics and nonsense at 8:30pm on NYE ;)
Makes sense…and come to think of it my previous Yakima rack had a similar bolt setup! Cheers mate appreciate it!
 

ausdb

Being who he is
I have had 2 of the SingleTrail vertical racks now, a new one and a V1 which I just sold, the anti wobble on both is a sophisticated work of art, its awesome. Even more so on the new V3.

But...

Just as good and works 100%, I used this on my ISI for nearly 10yrs and still have it, a rock solid way of stopping wobble.

Get yourself a 100mm bolt that fits the hitch hole and nut, weld the nut to a piece of plate that fits up yer 50mm hitch. Forget about adhesive.

View attachment 395832

Fit the plate to the inside of you hitch. As per number 1 into number 2.

View attachment 395833

Line it up with the hole you require for your car, missus car, mates car etc....

Poke a stick welder in there and tack the fucker in place :cool:

You could even wind the bolt in to hold it in the right place to get the outside tack in place, then remove the bolt and poke the stick welder through the bolt hole to tack the inside.

Next is to work out how much of the thread you need to just go through the nut plate and car hitch thickness, then grind the excess off. This is wasted threads that you do not need to be winding in every time you fit the bolt.

See mine after 10yrs of use and about 100,000km behind vehicles and on a caravan.

View attachment 395835


Drill a hole big enough to fit a padlock to.

When the bolt is tightened, it pulls the bike rack tongue against the hitch side wall and its never moving. I even had a cheap ratchet with the correct socket in my 'hitch roll' that stayed in the car.

Cheap, simple and 100% effective.

Well seeing I'm working all weekend and heading to work in the morning for a drug and alcohol test at 6am, times have changed, should be partying and drinking piss... instead on GravelBurn posting pics and nonsense at 8:30pm on NYE ;)
My Yakima rack shed ornament uses the same system, it is just slightly more elegant as the hole drilled in the end is replaced with one of the Yakima locking thingys that locks into a groove around the end of the bolt.
Replacement bolts are pretty cheap.
 

Stredda

Runs naked through virgin scrub
I have a vertical rack (custom - no brand name) with 2 inch square hitch for a year now. From day dot I’ve been dealing with ‘wobble’.

Solutions have been using are anti-rattle hitch pin (sort of fixed it until I stripped the thread), shims (reduced wobble) and anti-rattle clamp (worked but cheap eBay job and I stripped the threads).

I slot the rack into a family members new Ute and it has a bolt about 50mm into the hitch - anti-rattle I assume - my towbar doesn’t have this! WTF! All used was a hitch pin and did up the bolt and no wobble!

So…could I/should I think about getting a bolt drilled and tapped into my towbar? Or does anyone have a recommendation for a good anti-wobble clamp? I’m reluctant to waste my money on any more shit bolts/clamps
You'll find those anti rattle bolts (the single bolt with a lock nut) on tow bars are only for when there's no load and to stop the hitch from rattling. Most even have a warning sticker to loosen the bolt when hitching up to a trailer. They are a different thing to other anti wobble devices.
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
You'll find those anti rattle bolts (the single bolt with a lock nut) on tow bars are only for when there's no load and to stop the hitch from rattling. Most even have a warning sticker to loosen the bolt when hitching up to a trailer. They are a different thing to other anti wobble devices.
You talking about bras? Confused.
 

richie_gt

Likes Bikes and Dirt
View attachment 395832

Fit the plate to the inside of you hitch. As per number 1 into number 2.

View attachment 395833
Whilst I would've preferred to go the home made route I found this on ebay and purchased:-

CURT Anti-Rattle Hitch Pin & Shim | eBay

Works well. Pretty happy with it.

Maybe I'm being really petty with eliminating bike rack movement but I've been following some cars down the freeway and the amount of cars I've seen with bikes swinging about off the back of cars and on roofs is frightening. I'm still of the opinion that if it looks dodgy it probably is!
 

foxpuppet

Eats Squid
Anyone having issues with singletrail racks and rust? Seems the anti vax ex NSW rep has a beef with Currie and is shitposting about them all over the socials. I’ve seen a bit of surface rust on some moving parts that rub like the springs in the tilt mech and the undersides of the rope locks but nothing too serious.
I feel like If you drove it on the beach and didn’t give it a rinse down every now and then it could be an issue, but he’s making out like they are failing left right and centre.

http://instagr.am/p/Co4DRoSBsgo/
 

fjohn860

Alice in diaperland
Anyone having issues with singletrail racks and rust? Seems the anti vax ex NSW rep has a beef with Currie and is shitposting about them all over the socials. I’ve seen a bit of surface rust on some moving parts that rub like the springs in the tilt mech and the undersides of the rope locks but nothing too serious.
I feel like If you drove it on the beach and didn’t give it a rinse down every now and then it could be an issue, but he’s making out like they are failing left right and centre.

http://instagr.am/p/Co4DRoSBsgo/
From @ozzybmx's post here inwards there is some background...

 
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