BIKE RACKS AND CARRIERS FOR CARS MEGATHREAD - all questions asked and answered here

I think people should be wary of assuming that cops are applying discretion when not taking action on racks that may be illegal. It’s just as likely that they aren’t aware of the relevant laws.

Now that I type that out, I’m unsure if that difference even matters. But this is the internet; post first, think later.
 
JB 4-5-6 bike racks, shed stand and loading strut for $999. Additional $20 off with JB20 code.

Unsure of quality but its a cheap way to carry a family load of bikes.

jbracks.com.au

6 Vertical Bike Rack & Stand Bundle

Built Tough, Made Simple – The 6 Rack from JB is our largest model, built to tackle the toughest on-road and off-road conditions while carrying your entire group’s bikes. With its easy-to-use design, you can load and unload with ease, making it a great choice for serious riders and families. JB...
jbracks.com.au jbracks.com.au
 
ozzybmx said:
JB 4-5-6 bike racks, shed stand and loading strut for $999. Additional $20 off with JB20 code.

Unsure of quality but its a cheap way to carry a family load of bikes.

jbracks.com.au

6 Vertical Bike Rack & Stand Bundle

Built Tough, Made Simple – The 6 Rack from JB is our largest model, built to tackle the toughest on-road and off-road conditions while carrying your entire group’s bikes. With its easy-to-use design, you can load and unload with ease, making it a great choice for serious riders and families. JB...
jbracks.com.au jbracks.com.au
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Cheers!

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fjohn860 said:
@Haakon you still running this bike rack setup?

What brand is it with the "euro dick-ball" clamp setup?

Who else is using a euro towbar clamp setup?
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Do you mean a towball?

If so I am - I've got this

www.thule.com

Thule Epos | Thule | Australia

Thule Epos - Thule Epos bike rack fits all types of bikes and is fast, easy and convenient to use – it takes minimal effort to mount bikes thanks to an innovative telescopic bike attachment system. The bike arms simply let you attach your bike anywhere on the frame or the rear wheel, providing...
www.thule.com www.thule.com

It's farken expensive but it's a breeze to use, keeps the bikes super secure and off the frame on my carbon bike. I love it. I just hope it lasts a good few years top justify the eye watering price.

If you don't mean a normal towball then I'm an idiot and will crawl back under my rock 🤣 🤣
 
@fjohn860 I’ve got an older Thule Euro Ride that mounts on the towball. Was the gold standard before the vertical racks popped up and around $12-1300 at the time. Carries 3 bikes and has never come close to coming off. It’s been all over Victoria and into NSW too.

The wiring for the lights on the other hand, is a pain in the bum. My rack tilts for boot/tray access and depending on how thorough I was when putting it on, the wires often get pulled from terminals due to stretch with the tilt.

It’s way easier to store and move than a big hitch mount but I really do need to find a better wiring route and fix it - probably a simple job but it’s low priority, I continue to use it without the lights.

My oldest is on a 24” now and a vertical rack will probably have to take its place in the next 2-3 years.
 
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F G said:
Do you mean a towball?

If so I am - I've got this

www.thule.com

Thule Epos | Thule | Australia

Thule Epos - Thule Epos bike rack fits all types of bikes and is fast, easy and convenient to use – it takes minimal effort to mount bikes thanks to an innovative telescopic bike attachment system. The bike arms simply let you attach your bike anywhere on the frame or the rear wheel, providing...
www.thule.com www.thule.com

It's farken expensive but it's a breeze to use, keeps the bikes super secure and off the frame on my carbon bike. I love it. I just hope it lasts a good few years top justify the eye watering price.

If you don't mean a normal towball then I'm an idiot and will crawl back under my rock 🤣 🤣
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Yeah, euro style retractable tow ball.

Looking at a small car for the Missus (Suzuki Ignis) which is even smaller than the 2011 Swift she currently has. I need to take both wheels off to get the bike in the swift, so thinking a towbar on the ignis with a 2 bike rack would be the best way forward. They only have those euro towbars for the ignis.
caad9 said:
@fjohn860 I’ve got an older Thule Euro Ride that mounts on the towball. Was the gold standard before the vertical racks popped up and around $12-1300 at the time. Carries 3 bikes and has never come close to coming off. It’s been all over Victoria and into NSW too.

The wiring for the lights on the other hand, is a pain in the bum. My rack tilts for boot/tray access and depending on how thorough I was when putting it on, the wires often get pulled from terminals due to stretch with the tilt.

It’s way easier to store and move than a big hitch mount but I really do need to find a better wiring route and fix it - probably a simple job but it’s low priority, I continue to use it without the lights.

My oldest is on a 24” now and a vertical rack will probably have to take its place in the next 2-3 years.
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Thanks, yeah as above I'm going to be limited to a towball clamp style if we get an Ignis.
 
I have a Mini Countryman with a euro ( donkey dick ) removable tow hitch / ball .
I have a Thule euro style 2 bike rack - was used on my previous 3 cars - all had 50 mm balls

it attachs with a clamp and is adjustable and lockable - once on its ‘tight’ hasn’t ever moved - I’m not doing hectic off road - but yes dirt gravel roads etc .
Oh and in worse news … it is an Fatbike and and ebike …..occasionally 2 fat bikes …. And other random units
 
Ok, so I have a Rola vertical bike rack which has been going well for quite a while now, but the new car (Toyota) doesn't have a pinch bolt on the tow bar receiver, so it klunks rather concerningly on potholes and speed bumps. Need to figure something out as it freaks everyone out on long trips.

I have tried one of the anti rattle clamps which is a U-bolt and plate around the hitch, but its too close to the pivot point to do much. In my googling I came across the Gripsport insert which adds a nut on an expansion plate inside the hitch tongue, but given that the problem is the pivoting around the locking pin axis I'm not sure it will add much, unless the sheer friction secures it in place.

Anyone have better solutions before I have to get creative with trying to weld a pinch bolt in?
 
Dales Cannon said:
Drill and tap if you don't want to weld.
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Yeah, usually that ends with the threads tearing out of the 5mm or so of meat in the hitch receiver. Plus the bigger issue is all the shrouding around that makes accessing it a pain.

Have come across both a hitch pin bolt and thin shims from Mister Hitch for $20 each. Cheap enough to give it a go before i bust out the welder and try and figure out a place to put a bolt without having it liable to being torn off.
 
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takai said:
Yeah, usually that ends with the threads tearing out of the 5mm or so of meat in the hitch receiver. Plus the bigger issue is all the shrouding around that makes accessing it a pain.

Have come across both a hitch pin bolt and thin shims from Mister Hitch for $20 each. Cheap enough to give it a go before i bust out the welder and try and figure out a place to put a bolt without having it liable to being torn off.
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Is a rivnut an option?
 
Dales Cannon said:
Drill and tap if you don't want to weld.
Click to expand...

My old Prado tow bar had a M10 bolt that went in at 45° from the top, it was basically a welded factory nut. That was as good as any new fancy non-wobble system.

Alternatively, weld a nut-plate inside the 50mm box section and use a bolt instead of pin, the bolt tightens the 50mm tongue to the 50mm receiver and there is zero wobble.

I have had 2 x Singletrail racks and both of the non wobble systems are ok but not as good as the bolt tongue/receiver combo. Its flawless.
 
This may fit your towbar tongue https://isi-carriers.com/product/hitch-stabiliser-system/

I am using the older ISI stabiliser. This is just a plate with a nut welded to it placed inside the hitch. I have used a piece of polypipe to wedge the plate in place. The polypipe does not do anything once the hitch is bolted up, but does stop the plate falling out when not in use. Don't use for towing though. Also don't put the bolt in from the other side, as this will just crush the polypipe and do nothing to stop the movement.

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teK-- said:
An M6 or larger rivnut can handle 6.0mm thick metal... or am I overlooking something here?
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The rivnut's weakest point is the flange, and that will only be 1mm thick. Ideally you are looking at a M10 minimum for a pinch bolt, and at the pivot point forces that it will see the 1mm flange wont last long before tearing out against the tension load.
dkselw said:
This may fit your towbar tongue https://isi-carriers.com/product/hitch-stabiliser-system/

I am using the older ISI stabiliser. This is just a plate with a nut welded to it placed inside the hitch. I have used a piece of polypipe to wedge the plate in place. The polypipe does not do anything once the hitch is bolted up, but does stop the plate falling out when not in use. Don't use for towing though. Also don't put the bolt in from the other side, as this will just crush the polypipe and do nothing to stop the movement.

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Yeah, this is basically the Mister Hitches option: https://www.misterhitches.com.au/products/mharbl and for $20 its easier than busting out the welder to make my own (even though I probably have all the stuff here to do so)
 
takai said:
The rivnut's weakest point is the flange, and that will only be 1mm thick. Ideally you are looking at a M10 minimum for a pinch bolt, and at the pivot point forces that it will see the 1mm flange wont last long before tearing out against the tension load.

Yeah, this is basically the Mister Hitches option: https://www.misterhitches.com.au/products/mharbl and for $20 its easier than busting out the welder to make my own (even though I probably have all the stuff here to do so)
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That is a good solution, better than a pinch bolt which can mushroom and be hard to remove.
 
Put the pinch bolt through the lhs to tighten the rack. On the rhs, it's torque is trying to lift the rack and if it bounces at all it can come loose. I started making vertical racks in 2010 and copied the spring nut idea and a couple of others to try. Spring nut is the cheapest and easiest or make, I found they can loosen on the rhs though.
 
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