Bleeding hydraulic brakes after 1 year - worthwhile?

[Oddjob]

I've got a brake bleed question:
I have Saint M820 brakes F&R. Front bled ok, with plenty of bubbles and now works well. Simple bleed, just pushing the bubbles out really.

Rear has not gone so easy. Still pulls to lever and now dirty fluid is coming up to the cup on lever bleed port. I bled second time, still crappy. Again just pushing bubbles, not full bleed.

Question is: I have 25ml left in my container - is that enough to fully bleed the rear brake - push ALL old fluid out and refresh completely so all new red fluid. How much fluid does the rear take for that? Is 25ml enough?

Nope. I would want at least 50ml for a mulitpot rear. I've got litres of mineral oil if you are in Sydney.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

 

[scblack]

Nope. I would want at least 50ml for a mulitpot rear. I've got litres of mineral oil if you are in Sydney.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Way cool matey, I am in Sydney in Baulkham Hills. I shall pm for details.

Thanks wkkie too!

 

[mooboyj]

OK, good debate/input fellas.
Based on some of your experience, I'll prolly choose Hope/Clarks/other rotors & give ice tech a miss, regardless of what system I end up with.

Without having any way to benchmark any of the relative pros & cons of brands/diameters/no. of pistons etc, the big question for me still remains:

How undergunned will my current set-up be at Maydena?
Others were struggling with much tougher set-ups than mine....but how much faster do they descend compared to me?

There's so many variables with braking performance for each person & bike.

Does my set-up need an incremental upgrade OR is it so far below 'adequate' it will be dangerous and a full overhaul/upgrade is the only way forward for shuttle days??

(Well, only one way to find out sonny boy!)

Sadly work, & other stuff going on means my first Maydena visit won't likely happen 'till late Feb, or failing that, early April.
...and then maybe a few visits per year after that.

So I think I'm gonna go with this first:
- Finned & sintered pads f & r.
- Hope (or Clarks?) 203mm front rotor (floating)
- Stick with SLX / XT calipers & levers for now.
- And stay off the fuggen brakes!!!

After first visit I'll have more answers

Sent from my LG-H870DS using Tapatalk

What tyres are you running Born Again Biker? I ask this as I have a friend from WA move to Maydena for work and he rides it everyday and said rubber choice is crucial as you are descending endlessly but don't want to hammer the brakes. Maybe a DHR2 our back if you don't have one already?

 

[born-again-biker]

What tyres are you running Born Again Biker? I ask this as I have a friend from WA move to Maydena for work and he rides it everyday and said rubber choice is crucial as you are descending endlessly but don't want to hammer the brakes. Maybe a DHR2 our back if you don't have one already?

Good point - the best brakes are only making skids if the tyres don't grip.

At the moment I'm running DHFII front & Aggressor rear.
Whaddya reckon?



Sent from my LG-H870DS using Tapatalk

 

[Delazy]

Good point - the best brakes are only making skids if the tyres don't grip.

At the moment I'm running DHFII front & Aggressor rear.
Whaddya reckon?

Sent from my LG-H870DS using Tapatalk

im running a DHRII front and Aggressor rear on 30mm easton arc rims...definitely feels good at maydena...but didnt seem to help my hope e4 situation

 

[mooboyj]

If I rode it regularly I'd have a substantial tyre on the back without a doubt (HR2, DHR2, Hans Dampf etc). If you aren't going there on a regular basis, then I'd do the 203mm rotor and decent pads like you were suggesting.

 

[born-again-biker]

Is anyone running the new XT BRM8020 4-piston brakes?
Feedback? Opinions?

Sent from my LG-H870DS using Tapatalk

 

[Binaural]

So I've bled my Avid Guide R brakes after swapping the levers, and the quality of the bleed is pretty spongey. I used the somewhat modified method below because I heard the standard method in the manual isn't very good at achieving a firm lever feel, but I am not happy. Does anyone have any tips for getting a harder lever feel out of these brakes?

 

[fatboyonabike]

So I've bled my Avid Guide R brakes after swapping the levers, and the quality of the bleed is pretty spongey. I used the somewhat modified method below because I heard the standard method in the manual isn't very good at achieving a firm lever feel, but I am not happy. Does anyone have any tips for getting a harder lever feel out of these brakes?

 

[link1896]

Guides are tricky to bleed. MBRmagazines how to is close.

Here is my take on it. I was using the below method before I jumped to using a vacuum pump and compressed air.

Remove brakes from the bike. Bleed on the bench so you can really tap the bubbles out. Fit an old handle bar into a vice to mount the lever to. Use more fluid then suggested. Push a couple of syringes worth from lever to calliper, ditch it, following the videos tips on eliminating air from the syringe. Once you’ve got fresh fluid in there, cycle the fluid from syringe to syringe while tapping everything to eliminate bubbles. Move calliper around while eliminating bubbles. It’s critical you pull the lever to the bar and pull on the syringe at the calliper to generate a vacuum to get as many bubbles out as possible.




Don’t remove the syringe from the levers until you’ve fitted the rotor and set the pads to rotor by pulling lever in multiple times (do check for rotor rub in case pads are now too close). If pads are highly worn, you’ve now over filled the system and before new pads are fitted, you will need to refit the syringe to the lever and push some fluid out.

 

[slowmick]

Going to need this once it's time to use the glory again - the guides are very spongy after sitting in the garage for the last couple of years.