boxxer crowns
- Thread starter bighitter
- Start date
don't put a spacer under the lower race. the steerer is tapered to make the lower race sit tight on it, and you don't want unsupported material between the lower edge of the headset and lower crown. a kid came to us one time with sever damage to the frame, fork and himself because he tried spacers between the lower crown and the headset.
if you mean you just want to slide the crowns down the legs, just make sure you stay within the butted section of the fork leg (but this might just be with bombers, so feel free to ignore if i'm wromg)
if you mean you just want to slide the crowns down the legs, just make sure you stay within the butted section of the fork leg (but this might just be with bombers, so feel free to ignore if i'm wromg)
crown
i think he means he wants to put more spacers under the top crown
to lift it up so it clears his top tube
and hence doing so lowers his bottom crown
from the boxxer manual it says not to have more than 160mm of stanchion sticking out above the bottom crown
and you have to check you have enough tire clearance between the bottom crown and tire when your boxxer is fully compressed
i think he means he wants to put more spacers under the top crown
to lift it up so it clears his top tube
and hence doing so lowers his bottom crown
from the boxxer manual it says not to have more than 160mm of stanchion sticking out above the bottom crown
and you have to check you have enough tire clearance between the bottom crown and tire when your boxxer is fully compressed
OK, first measure the distance from your tire to the lower crown, if this is over 7inches and you're able to raise it up by 5mm without making it to close to that distance then you're fine. Depending on which year boxxers they are will decide wether the stanchions are taper or straight wall, but i dont think that will make much of a difference, as i belive they are only double butted not triple, like the marz forks.
It is very common practice to alter the position of the top crown in relation to the stanctions. This is usually done to adjust head angle to suit specific bike geometry requirements. You can run spacers where ever you like (above or below the top crown) as long as the tyre does not bottom out on the bottom crown when the fork bottoms out - for obvious reasons.
The best way in my opinion is to simply remove the top caps from your forks, and letting them bottom out. Then adjust the spacers as desired and your on. This way you'll not get any nasty suprises when you launch that big gap at 60.
I used this technique on my v10 to get the head angle as steep (and bike length short) as possible, as it has world cup geometry, and none of the QLD courses are at world cup speed.
The best way in my opinion is to simply remove the top caps from your forks, and letting them bottom out. Then adjust the spacers as desired and your on. This way you'll not get any nasty suprises when you launch that big gap at 60.
I used this technique on my v10 to get the head angle as steep (and bike length short) as possible, as it has world cup geometry, and none of the QLD courses are at world cup speed.