Mmmm I didn’t think of that but a good point you raise. But it’s a trade off because everyone knows it’s a scientific fact that if everything matches you are at least 3km/h faster. Although if everything is all stealth then I suppose that could also be deemed as matching...... something to think about.Running coloured rotors, brake-lines and/or derailleur outers causes a lot of visual noise that the universe matches by trying to draw even more attention to the bike in question through the medium of auditory noise. In most cases it can be resolved by "stealthing it out" to classy levels again.
Good luck.
Yeah me too. Could be caustic as f......Personally I would not use stuff like that without knowing what the product was actually doing, it may make the brakes less effective.
I’m running the Shimano metal pads. Made sure to avoid the organic as I do a lot of gravity riding so I need the longer life from metals plus in general they don’t squeal as much.......What pads are you using? Use a good sintered. Merlin has EBC gold cheap. Organic are more likely to glaze and squeal.
Yeah completely positive. I quarantine the pads whenever I work on the brakes, always clean up with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, I use gloves and never touch the pad faces or the rotors. I’ve also checked to make sure nothing is leaking at the calliper and this is backed up by the fact that the brakes are performing really well. Just screaming like a bastard.I'm assuming that you're 100% positive that there's no oil on your rotors or pads. Use isoprpyl alcohol any time you go near your rotors/brakes.
I’ll check this out. I’ve always done the standard method so I’ll give this a crack. Thanks for the suggestion.If you've met those conditions then you probably have a caliper alignment problem. Don't do the standard method. Manually line up the centre line of the front of the caliper with the disc and then tighten the front bolt and repeat for the rear.
All good there mate. Not married.The problem with going to a stealth bike os that nobody will pick it up on their bike-dar. Except maybe your wife...which doesn't end well. Making it an n+1 with no real pay off.
I hadn't, given they are new pads and that they aren't contaminated. I was under the impression (perhaps incorrectly) that the blow torch was good for maybe recovering stuffed pads that had been contaminated. You reckon it might work here??? I'm thinking if the alignment doesn't work I might get some wet and dry, sand the pads back and try bedding them in again.Have you considered the age old pad bbq?
I know how much you blokes love it when folks start a new thread on the same subject every week.And we'll done for using the search.
Then I don't understand why you haven't just brought new brakes!All good there mate. Not married.
Cooking brake pads is definitely not snake oil. I was a sceptic too until very recently when I bought those zee brakes and was thoroughly underwhelmed. No amount of cleaning pads and rotors with iso or brake cleaner helped, the brakes were shit.Then I don't understand why you haven't just brought new brakes!
I've never bbq'd brake pads. I just recall it.being a popular cure all (and possibly snake oil) on here a few years ago.
Do you have any spacers/washers in the set up? If not maybe a thin shim here and there. If so, perhaps less shims. I had a set not too long ago that ended up with a 1/2mm shim under each end of the calliper. Somehow it just made everything sit right and noise free was had. With all the reverberations and echoes a bike can produce the slightest misalignment cam be very annoying.
Can't unfortunately. Running 203mm on the front and 180mm on the rear. But good idea to at least isolate the problem to one or the other. I think I may have an old rotor that I can use.Swap your rotors front to back, if they're the same size.... That'll at least rule that out.
No spacers except for the half round washers that come with the brake spacer for the front. I spoke with a guy the other day that reckons he shims his pads out using a biscuit tin lid. He gets the pad and draws around it as a template then cuts it out. He swears that it gives really good lever feel. He also adds more as the pads wear which seems logical. Maybe it's worth a try here to see if it stops the noise as well. But you say you had the shims under the caliper? Interesting. You guys are all giving me plenty to look into!!!!Do you have any spacers/washers in the set up? If not maybe a thin shim here and there. If so, perhaps less shims. I had a set not too long ago that ended up with a 1/2mm shim under each end of the calliper. Somehow it just made everything sit right and noise free was had. With all the reverberations and echoes a bike can produce the slightest misalignment cam be very annoying.
This might be on the right track. Check the clearances between any conical washers, spaces etc on the caliper mount and how far is it from the rotor. Is there enough room to allow for any bending or flexing when braking with enthusiasm.Add-subtract-tweak-twerk...think of all the spots that bolt on and start shimming. It is about micro adjusting alignment.
So just to confirm you do this with new pads?Cooking brake pads is definitely not snake oil. I was a sceptic too until very recently when I bought those zee brakes and was thoroughly underwhelmed. No amount of cleaning pads and rotors with iso or brake cleaner helped, the brakes were shit.
Out comes the old butane camp stove, hit the pads with brake cleaner one more time, wipe them down, hold them over the flame with pliers till they stop smoking, cool them down, re install, nearly go ass over while trying to bed the now spectacular brakes...
The little rambo stove is a part of my maintenance kit now, fixed all the brakes in the house, even the ones I thought had no problem!