Chainsaw advice....

[Shredden]

In the end, a chainsaw is a tool...and a dangerous one at that. But the important thing is that it is a tool that is used as part of a potentially dangerous activity in a potentially dangerous environment. So be aware of more than just the tool. Look up. Look around. Plan your moves. Understand what's possible. Protect yourself as much as possible. Don't die.

I'm a specialist procrastinator, and remember watching this entire series a while back (you know, just for fun):

Lots of good info and case studies in there, even if the only time I ever use a chainsaw currently is a little 12" Bunnings one clearing DH trails.

Looking at upgrading to a Stihl MS180 later on this year, so I'm glad to see that consensus here is that it's a goodie.

 

[moorey]

It’s great little saw. Bought Naomi one to replace her ozito.
Not huge power, but punches above its weight. Wouldn’t use it too much on logs bigger than 6” though.

 

[safreek]

Well, eat my words, after some fucking around it runs properly but only on choke
Fair enough.
At least it cut what was needed, easily. At least my large pole still works

 

[moorey]

Always wondered what you looked like....now I just want to splash acid in my eyes.......or if that’s your wife, she could do better.

 

[rowdyflat]

Woohoo , you did it , you showed that tree who is the boss.
Years ago we bought a Stihl arborist saw which is lightweight and designed to be used one handed due to the grip and balance point, awesome for track work.

 

[hifiandmtb]

Did your dog take the photo?

 

[safreek]

Always wondered what you looked like....now I just want to splash acid in my eyes.......or if that’s your wife, she could do better.

Rather sensitive looking chap, eh, surprised?

 

[safreek]

Woohoo , you did it , you showed that tree who is the boss.
Years ago we bought a Stihl arborist saw which is lightweight and designed to be used one handed due to the grip and balance point, awesome for track work.

Rather stoked it all worked out in the end.
I bought a stihl pruning chainsaw at work once, cost about 500, it was cool dropping trees with such a small saw. They are good stuff

 

[safreek]

Did your dog take the photo?

It really pisses me that just about all photos I post have Burt in them, I admit I stuffed up. Shall fix that tomorrow

 

[Cardy George]

It really pisses me that just about all photos I post have Burt in them, I admit I stuffed up. Shall fix that tomorrow

Hang on, are you pissed that Burt is in the others, or pissed that he's not in this one?

I mean if Burt is a problem I'm sure there are many of us that can help......

 

[safreek]

Hang on, are you pissed that Burt is in the others, or pissed that he's not in this one?

I mean if Burt is a problem I'm sure there are many of us that can help......

Ooh, he will be in the photo in the morning, I guarantee that.
Burt is a great, great problem , but he is my problem til the end.

 

[safreek]

Burt photo bombing again.
Pleased to say the saw got through all the branches on the ground. Have gotten value out of it already

 

[born-again-biker]

Is he a stand-over kinda foreman?
Or more laid back just-let-the-bloke-do-his-job kinda supervisor ?

 

[safreek]

Is he a stand-over kinda foreman?
Or more laid back just-let-the-bloke-do-his-job kinda supervisor ?

Lets you get on with the job, as you can see he is slinking away, probably because of lack of health and safety, "I see nothing, noooothinggg "

 

[MasterOfReality]

I have about 2000sqm of bushland with a whole heap of dead trees I need to cut up into firewood. Can't decide between the stihl ms180 or ms181. About a $150 price difference. I dont want to get a bigger saw as the trees are not that big (30-40cm dianeter), but don't want to spend heaps on something that's going to get used once a year.

I prefer stihl as i have their kombi system and have given it hell with no complaints but am open to suggestions.

Counted about 15 trees I want to get rid of, max trunk diameter is 30 cm. These will then be cut into firewood.

Can I get away with a 12" bar, or should 14" be a minimum when it comes to the size of trees I have? If 14" is ok, can get a cheap Husqvarna 120 MkII for $249, or a Stihl MS 171 for $399.

Any experience with battery? Stay away from the Bunnings gear?

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Counted about 15 trees I want to get rid of, max trunk diameter is 30 cm. These will then be cut into firewood.

Can I get away with a 12" bar, or should 14" be a minimum when it comes to the size of trees I have? If 14" is ok, can get a cheap Husqvarna 120 MkII for $249, or a Stihl MS 171 for $399.

Any experience with battery? Stay away from the Bunnings gear?

14" is the sweet spot and I'd not go smaller.

The Husqvarna is a fine little saw. Stihl has the very similar MS170 for the same coin at some outlets - the 171 is the newer fancy pants version.

Cheap battery or electric saws from Bunnings et al are more dangerous than sweaty dynamite.

Both the Husqvarna and Stihl battery saws are much nicer but expensive and the usage periods are short and charging is not fast. No-one wants to run out of battery half way through a back cut.

Have you had training in tree felling or are you planning to just wing it?

 

[rowdyflat]

Battery powered saws are OK for little jobs but an expensive way to go esp when battery fails.
I have had a small Stihl 190 T for ages but a cheaper Husky or Stihl is the way to go.
Never touch Bunnings shit.

 

[MasterOfReality]

14" is the sweet spot and I'd not go smaller.

The Husqvarna is a fine little saw. Stihl has the very similar MS170 for the same coin at some outlets - the 171 is the newer fancy pants version.

Cheap battery or electric saws from Bunnings et al are more dangerous than sweaty dynamite.

Both the Husqvarna and Stihl battery saws are much nicer but expensive and the usage periods are short and charging is not fast. No-one wants to run out of battery half way through a back cut.

Have you had training in tree felling or are you planning to just wing it?

Thanks for that, I get the feeling whatever I buy from Husqvarna and Stihl will be much of a muchness. I have a couple of Stihl whipper snippers and a KM131R Kombi system with various attachments. They all run off the same fuel/oil mix from the one fuel can. I wouldn't mind changing it up a bit if I can be convinced. My only Husqvarna tool is a leaf blower which is awesome. The Husqvarna 14" saws are listed as having slightly higher kW (1.4 vs 1.3 for the Stihl) and a larger engine 38.2 cc vs 30.1-31.8 cc Stihl.

I haven't had any training in tree felling. The trees are approx 5-10 m in height, and I have cleared a lot of the lower limbs with the pole chainsaw. Been watching a few instructional videos for some initial guidance.

Bunnings points, noted.

Battery powered saws are OK for little jobs but an expensive way to go esp when battery fails.
I have had a small Stihl 190 T for ages but a cheaper Husky or Stihl is the way to go.
Never touch Bunnings shit.

Cheers mate. I did speak to a Husqvarna rep at one of the local shows and he reckons that the battery ones outsell the petrol. I expected him to say that because he only had the battery ones on display!

On another note, I just noticed how cheap saws are in the USA and there is a fair bit of discussion on bringing them in, albeit from around 5 years ago. Is it worth the hassle trying to get them through customs? I guess if I'm not buying right up the top end of the range its just easier to go the local shop but the thought of getting something a lot better for marginally more than a bottom end Stihl/Husqvarna saw here can't be ignored.

 

[rowdyflat]

Yeah I bought my new Husky from USA actually from ebay but a trusted seller at about 60% AUS price , no problem but about 6 years ago before GST and before things got really bad with postage.
If you can find 2 nd hand from a hobby farmer in AUS it should be OK.
Lots of hobby farmer chainsaws get barely used.
Dropping trees is easy if all is good but care if tree is leaning against another or leaning radically the wrong way unless you have someone pulling with a cable.
Cut a notch in the felling direction then a sloping downward cut towards it from the other side so the fall is predictable and wont jam the saw..
I always wear a helmet doing that, as dead branches can hit your head.
30 cm diameter isnt that big ,any decent small saw will do and they are easier to handle.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Dropping trees is easy if all is good but care if tree is leaning against another or leaning radically the wrong way unless you have someone pulling with a cable.
Cut a notch in the felling direction then a sloping downward cut towards it from the other side so the fall is predictable and wont jam the saw..
I always wear a helmet doing that, as dead branches can hit your head.
30 cm diameter isnt that big ,any decent small saw will do and they are easier to handle.

Dropping trees IS easy. But it's also easy to fuck up. I'm aware of two dead in NSW so far this winter...one of them was my neighbour. Both of them died in front of their children.

It's also easy to make mistakes. I made one today - wonky scarf cut due to being too...over confident? Fortunately, I knew enough and had the right tools at hand to recover it and get it down where it was supposed to go...