Changing a smashpot spring

DMan

shawly the least hangeriest guy on rotorburn
I'd like to change my spring in my fork. I've read the document from Vorsprung and it seems sensible enough. Anyone done one and is there anything extra to know that the manual doesn't tell you?
 

Isaakk

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Depends on spring length. If the springs are the same overall length to within a mm or two, you can just replace the spring by removing the topcap/collar & swapping them as per instructions.

If the lengths vary though (the 40lbs spring I received was a few mm shorter than the 45/50), you may need to pull the whole assembly out & add (or remove) a main spring spacer, or you won't be able to get preload set correctly with the required amount of thread showing above the spring collar.
 

DMan

shawly the least hangeriest guy on rotorburn
Depends on spring length. If the springs are the same overall length to within a mm or two, you can just replace the spring by removing the topcap/collar & swapping them as per instructions.

If the lengths vary though (the 40lbs spring I received was a few mm shorter than the 45/50), you may need to pull the whole assembly out & add (or remove) a main spring spacer, or you won't be able to get preload set correctly with the required amount of thread showing above the spring collar.
Ok, great to know. I'm looking at going from a 50 to a 45 so I'll find that out first.
 

teK--

Eats Squid
Depends on spring length. If the springs are the same overall length to within a mm or two, you can just replace the spring by removing the topcap/collar & swapping them as per instructions.

If the lengths vary though (the 40lbs spring I received was a few mm shorter than the 45/50), you may need to pull the whole assembly out & add (or remove) a main spring spacer, or you won't be able to get preload set correctly with the required amount of thread showing above the spring collar.
What he said. The length comes down to manufacturing tolerances. You can have 2 springs same weight but different length.

My 40lb was 2mm longer than the 35lb.

If the new spring is shorter you can drop a 2mm spacer (or two) down the shaft from the top of the fork without disassembly. If new spring is longer you will have to drop the lowers ti remove spacer(s)
 

DMan

shawly the least hangeriest guy on rotorburn
What he said. The length comes down to manufacturing tolerances. You can have 2 springs same weight but different length.

My 40lb was 2mm longer than the 35lb.

If the new spring is shorter you can drop a 2mm spacer (or two) down the shaft from the top of the fork without disassembly. If new spring is longer you will have to drop the lowers ti remove spacer(s)
Here's to the same length or shorter then. Out of curiosity are you running higher or lower than the recommended spring rate for purpose on their spring chart? @Isaakk?
 

Isaakk

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I don't currently have the Smashpot in, but when running it I settled on exactly what was recommended for what was pretty much a middle ground recommendation (Intermediate, mixed terrain, most jumps) for my weight/travel.
 

smitho

Likes Bikes and Dirt
It's probably worthwhile taking the whole assembly out and adjusting bottom out too. In my experience the bottom out was very over-damped. Was like riding a rigid fork when compressed to 2/3 travel.

I swapped the washers around to reduce the bottom out damping, leaving only a single washer and the fork is substantially better.
 

teK--

Eats Squid
It's probably worthwhile taking the whole assembly out and adjusting bottom out too. In my experience the bottom out was very over-damped. Was like riding a rigid fork when compressed to 2/3 travel.

I swapped the washers around to reduce the bottom out damping, leaving only a single washer and the fork is substantially better.
It seems to be weather dependent and also how heavily sprung you are.

For example I am running a slightly softer than ideal spring and I wind in about 6 turns of HBO in Summer. In winter I turn it back to about 3 clicks HBO to maintain a similar feel.

For friends who run an overly firm spring they like 0 clicks HBO all year round.
 

kten

understands stuff moorey doesn't
It seems to be weather dependent and also how heavily sprung you are.

For example I am running a slightly softer than ideal spring and I wind in about 6 turns of HBO in Summer. In winter I turn it back to about 3 clicks HBO to maintain a similar feel.

For friends who run an overly firm spring they like 0 clicks HBO all year round.
What weight oil do you use? I find the Motorex 10W great for all temps and I also moved one washer on the HBO (88kg with 50lb spring @170mm travel 64 degreee head angle).
 

teK--

Eats Squid
What weight oil do you use? I find the Motorex 10W great for all temps and I also moved one washer on the HBO (88kg with 50lb spring @170mm travel 64 degreee head angle).
Fox gold 20wt. Maybe your slack HA makes yours feel firmer. 64.6 or so here.

Maybe the motored doesn't fluctuate so much across colder temps. The fox is like molasses in winter.
 
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