cleaning breaks
- Thread starter joelhein
- Start date
eyes
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Hey mate - the object you are interested in is a 'brake'.
Now we've got that sorted out - Have you fixed your forks? If not, then don't bother cleaning anything because it will just happen again (depending on what you mean by blown your forks).
If the fork problem is fixed - clean your whole bike thouroughly - there are plenty of threads on here about bike cleaning.
Once you've done that, get some Isopropyl Alcohol from the hardware, or if you can't find any of that, get some metho. Pull your wheel off and clean the rotor with the metho and a CLEAN rag.
You're going to need to replace your brake pads, so go down the LBS and buy some new ones. No matter what you do, your old ones are f*cked if they've had oil on them.
Pull the old pads out, clean the whole caliper with the metho and a clean rag.
Put new brake pads in, put wheel in, ride. Remember it will take a little bit of burning in to get the brakes working 100%.
Now we've got that sorted out - Have you fixed your forks? If not, then don't bother cleaning anything because it will just happen again (depending on what you mean by blown your forks).
If the fork problem is fixed - clean your whole bike thouroughly - there are plenty of threads on here about bike cleaning.
Once you've done that, get some Isopropyl Alcohol from the hardware, or if you can't find any of that, get some metho. Pull your wheel off and clean the rotor with the metho and a CLEAN rag.
You're going to need to replace your brake pads, so go down the LBS and buy some new ones. No matter what you do, your old ones are f*cked if they've had oil on them.
Pull the old pads out, clean the whole caliper with the metho and a clean rag.
Put new brake pads in, put wheel in, ride. Remember it will take a little bit of burning in to get the brakes working 100%.
joelhein
Squid
i blew out my right leg completly, i have a mates set of 888s on at the moment while my others are getting fixed, thanks for the help. i was wondering if maybe even bleach would work?
joelhein
Squid
i like fire.. didnt no fork oil was flammable? thanks mate
eyes
Likes Bikes and Dirt
I don't reckon this will work for fork oil but try it if you want - just make sure you clean the rotor AGAIN if you have to install new pads.
I think you are more thinking about people setting their rotors alight to get oil off them. It's unlikely to work with the pads because the oil might have soaked into them a little.
For God's sake don't burn yourself.
Shellite is good for cleaning your rotor and pads and you can get it at most hardware stores. I would clean the rotor with Shellite give it a light rub with sandpaper then clean it again with the shellite and a clean rag again.
As said before with the pads you are probably better off binning them but if you're short of cash you can try dipping the pads in Shellite and then lighting them and let them burn out. Then put some sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the pads on them to take off the top layer. I have had good results with this process on pads that have been glazed before.
As said before with the pads you are probably better off binning them but if you're short of cash you can try dipping the pads in Shellite and then lighting them and let them burn out. Then put some sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the pads on them to take off the top layer. I have had good results with this process on pads that have been glazed before.
Rippor 215
Likes Dirt
Get a flame on a match or better a bottle with same gas in it. If it works, you'll know because you should be able to see the oil coming off. Then for your pads get them out and sand them down. Worked when my LBS did it for my brothers bike....
Bryce88
Likes Dirt
re-bed the brakes?
A grave dig but don't like starting new topics...
I spilt degreaser on my rotor (thought I was being careful and covered the rotor but obviously still penetrated).
Being degreaser I shrugged it off but seems it contaminated my rotor and pads.
I've sand papered and cleaned with isopropyl alcohol both the rotor and pads (also cooked the pads in the oven for a few minutes).
Everything looks pretty clean now however when I put everything back on the bike I noticed the brakes wouldn't grab well on a heavy load.
Could I possibly just need to re-bed the brakes?
A grave dig but don't like starting new topics...
I spilt degreaser on my rotor (thought I was being careful and covered the rotor but obviously still penetrated).
Being degreaser I shrugged it off but seems it contaminated my rotor and pads.
I've sand papered and cleaned with isopropyl alcohol both the rotor and pads (also cooked the pads in the oven for a few minutes).
Everything looks pretty clean now however when I put everything back on the bike I noticed the brakes wouldn't grab well on a heavy load.
Could I possibly just need to re-bed the brakes?
Last edited:
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
Brakes rely on a certain amount of pad material being embedded in the rotor surface to produce their best performance. Bedding in is the process of getting that layer there. Cleaning the rotor would have taken that layer off, so yes, you'll need to bed the brakes in again to get the bite back.
Bryce88
Likes Dirt
Thanks for that. I'll have a crack in the morning. Good bedding method suggestions? I usually just roll down a hill and slam on the brake about 10 times, although I have heard of people dragging the brakes before slamming them on to get the heat in the pads first?
Bryce88
Likes Dirt
I like my pads medium/rare ... I guess it sounds stupid cooking the pads but I've had mild success doing it before. I'd cook them longer but nervous it would make the pads real brittle?
I sandpapered the pads, cleaned in water, dried, sprayed with alcohol, let that evaporate, baked for 5 minute. Then repeated.
Rotors, I gave a fine sand and wiped clean with alcohol and a clean rag. I did this twice also.
If the pads are stuffed so be it, I'm okay with replacing them, but I do like trying to save $$$ and when I'm bored I tinker.
fundermental
Likes Bikes
I've had contaminated brakes a couple of times, once because I over oiled the chain and the other degreaser. I simply removed that pads, gave them a light sand on a flat surface, used some non chlorinated brake clean on the rotor, wiped with a rag and then gave the pads a squirt with the brake clean and wiped away the excess. They needed to be bedded in again - I found a nice long big hill and got them hot and now they are perfect.
redbruce
Eats Squid
I'm a chemist and I can tell you shellite (also known as lighter fluid) will work fine. Like the alcohols mentioned, it has a low boiling point and leaves no residue.
http://www.recochem.com.au/files/downloads/Cons_Shellite_PDS_Apr11.pdf
Both shellite and isopropyl alcohol have their origin in crude oil.
Both are good solvents for dissolving oils (shellite being the most widely used industrially for the purpose).
If its dot3.4.5 brake fluid (glycol based - another alcohol) you're are trying to remove, the alcohol would be the most appropriate.
Last edited:
Jeffgre_6163
Likes Dirt
Thanks for this. It confirmed what I all ready knew
I have been using Shellite for a couple of years for cleaning bearings, tar off the car, chains etc after I stumbled on it by accident after purchasing it instead of wax and grease remover.
I find it works brilliantly on any dirty, greasy oily parts, dries really fast and exactly as it says, leaves not residue
Oh yeah, to the OP
Breaks are what you get when your brakes don't work : )
pharmaboy
Eats Squid
Anyone know the fundamental difference between spray degreaser and spray brake cleaner? One is $3 and the other $11