Crank Removal Question.

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Dub cranks are absolutely ridiculous. Get your 8mm in there, chuck a 24" 48" bar on the allen key and stand on it. You might need two people.
With some I've had to remove the left pedal and slip a length of pipe over the (protectively wrapped) crank, which then rests on the floor to stop the crank spinning, and physically stand on the allen key to get it to release!

DO NOT remove the outer extraction ring, otherwise you won't get the crank off.
 

link1896

Mr Greenfield
Get two 600mm breaker bars

The stationary side, hex socket in the spindle bolt. Pedal left in. One breaker bar goes against the hex socket and the pedal. Zip tied in place. The hex key isn’t engaged to the breaker bar head. Any steel rod would work, for me it’s 600mm long breaker bars

Other breaker bar is driving the 8 or 10mm hex key you’re trying to undo.


I’ve measured 180Nm undoing sram cranks. You need 600mm or longer leverage for this sort of torque.
 

Flow-Rider

Burner
I undo the extracting caps all the time, makes it easier to buff the old loctite off from the retaining bolt, but it's less load on your spanner if you remove the cap, extract the bolt while it's tight to get it out, remove all the loctite on the bolt and reinstall everything with grease and draw the crank out. Of course, you would clean the bolt again before you apply loctite on reassembly. I'd also rather use a crank puller if I have one that fits, rather than those flimsy caps that tear the thread out all the time.

Not for the hands of passion fingers but these save a lot of time and effort in you know what you're doing with them.


371266
 

Flow-Rider

Burner
I've never put Loctite on any part of a crank.
The older 3 piece cranks all come factory with it, even on the Shimano pinch bolt types, I've never owned a truvativ dub type so I can't say but with a bolt that is so tight, it makes sense to unload it as much as possible rather fight yourself with a bigger struggle.
 
Top