custom wheel builds - feedback

Oddjob

Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
EsPeGe said:
I've got 3 sets of them and have had zero issues. I have just replaced the bearing on the first set I got after 3 years or hard riding. They've been sweet and probably could've kept using them but figured it was time. They are super easy to service yourself and have a couple of good videos on how to do it.
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Don't you have to get a special grease for the sprag clutch and then a seperate one for the bearings? (Says the man who has hoarded Dumondetech pro x for freehubs and Finish line ceramic for bearings.)

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
 
S

sbm

Likes Bikes
To hijack this thread...

Just broke another spoke nipple on my crappy SRAM-branded OEM rear wheel and I think it's the last straw. The nipples seem really brittle I've broken 3 or 4 of them, the bearing cups I think are ovalised as there's slight play even with it over-tightned, the cassette has a wobble I swear, and it chews bearings. I'll keep it rolling for now (replace the nipple, patch the rim tape, bodge the truing) but I reckon it's time to get something more solid.

This would be my first aftermarket wheel. I was thinking a DT swiss hub and and alloy rim seems like a solid choice? Is it worth getting one through an LBS, e.g. Summit in Sydney? It's a crappy time to be shopping for stuff made overseas.
 
C

creaky

XMAS Plumper
sbm said:
To hijack this thread...

Just broke another spoke nipple on my crappy SRAM-branded OEM rear wheel and I think it's the last straw. The nipples seem really brittle I've broken 3 or 4 of them, the bearing cups I think are ovalised as there's slight play even with it over-tightned, the cassette has a wobble I swear, and it chews bearings. I'll keep it rolling for now (replace the nipple, patch the rim tape, bodge the truing) but I reckon it's time to get something more solid.

This would be my first aftermarket wheel. I was thinking a DT swiss hub and and alloy rim seems like a solid choice? Is it worth getting one through an LBS, e.g. Summit in Sydney? It's a crappy time to be shopping for stuff made overseas.
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I'd be buying in Aus at the moment. DT hub + DT rim is a damn solid setup but not cheap if you're buying local.

You could look for a used hub, as they are pretty much bullet proof.
 
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S

sbm

Likes Bikes
creaky said:
I'd be buying in Aus at the moment. DT hub + DT rim is a damn solid setup but not cheap if you're buying local.

You could look for a used hub, as they are pretty much bullet proof.
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I'm ready to spend some money on a solid hub at least. Local price on pushys/bikebug seems about $300 which I'm ok with. So $5-600 all up for a complete wheel? Did some idle marketplace searching, and damn there's a lot of junk to wade through looking second hand.

Very fortunately the company I work for is actually in overdrive with extra work with the current situation, so I'm leaning towards just spending money, rather than spending time to save a bit of money.
 
dirtdad

dirtdad

Wants to be special but is too shy
sbm said:
Is it worth getting one through an LBS, e.g. Summit in Sydney? It's a crappy time to be shopping for stuff made overseas.
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Had the same problem with my OEM wheel recently. Didn't trust it anymore after busting a spoke which then snapped my RD. I got quoted 730 for a rear wheel from those guys (dt350 ex471) which was too much for me. Only 100 of that was for build labour. Went with Greg at TWE instead.
 
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silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

has some good things to say
Cardy George said:
I haven't used them (yet) but a couple of locals highly recommend these guys

Xlr8 High Performance Bicycle Wheels

Website says they're in Ballina
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He's done all my wheels since 2014...I've lost count of how many sets. Maybe eight?

So far...none have required additional work apart from one rim that I expired due to the fact that I ride like a plough and the rim wasn't the right specification for the bike and the rider...and I specified it in the first place.

Getting wheels made is never cheap unless you cut corners in the spec, get a used hub and/or you find someone or yourself with the skills to do a decent job and save yourself $150 in labour costs...
 
EsPeGe

EsPeGe

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Ali Clarkson Wheel build

This guy builds wheels for Danny Macaskill as well as rides trials with him. He knows his shit and this video is how I learnt to build wheels. It's super easy to follow and so far I've built 8 wheels and no issues with any of them. The wheels I built before my Canada road trip last year are still as straight as the day I finished em and I've literally only had to tighten two spokes, all thanks to this video. Can't recommend it enough.
 
S

sbm

Likes Bikes
That Ali Clarkson video is great but the list of things you'll need was a bit on the nose. "All you need is a spoke wrench, some lube...and an ordinary shoe haha! So easy!"

"Oh yeah also this premium workshop truing stand will help if you have one lying around"
 
The Duckmeister

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
sbm said:
To hijack this thread...

Just broke another spoke nipple on my crappy SRAM-branded OEM rear wheel and I think it's the last straw. The nipples seem really brittle I've broken 3 or 4 of them, the bearing cups I think are ovalised as there's slight play even with it over-tightned, the cassette has a wobble I swear, and it chews bearings. I'll keep it rolling for now (replace the nipple, patch the rim tape, bodge the truing) but I reckon it's time to get something more solid.

This would be my first aftermarket wheel. I was thinking a DT swiss hub and and alloy rim seems like a solid choice? Is it worth getting one through an LBS, e.g. Summit in Sydney? It's a crappy time to be shopping for stuff made overseas.
Click to expand...
Blowing nipples up indicates that the spokes are too short rather than a nipple flaw. Aluminium nipples are particularly good at exposing short spokes. About the only thing they're good for.

The other stuff does tend suggest a shit hub..... If the rim itself is OK just chuck a new hub in it; depending on profile new spokes may be necessary, but if it's a couple of mm deeper in section than the current one it should correct for the short spokes & then they'll be right. ;-)
 
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