Dropper post. OneUp vs Brand X vs X-Fusion

[Jpez]

If you have a torque wrench, tighten the seatpost collar up to spec. If you don't, or if you have a binding issue when it's tightened, you'll have to do the dance of having it tight enough that the seatpost won't move in the frame but loose enough that it actuates properly.
Worst case you might need to claim warranty. From my understanding Oneup had a number of warranty claims from this issue (the V1 I bought my husband was one of these).
I like the travel adjustment of the Oneup dropper but if I had to choose again I'd probably go BrandX or PNW. For what it's worth, some of the other internal droppers on the market are able to be adjusted with the V1 travel adjust shims.

PNW have my vote. Running 2 of their posts and not a single niggle. Unlike the One up and several other posts I tried. Love the travel adjust so you can get it juuuust right.

Also sample of one but re the Brand x the lever is a steaming pile of dog turd. Get something else. Anything else. PNW loam and Wolftooth are my go to levers.

 

[moorey]

PNW have my vote. Running 2 of their posts and not a single niggle. Unlike the One up and several other posts I tried. Love the travel adjust so you can get it juuuust right.

Also sample of one but re the Brand x the lever is a steaming pile of dog turd. Get something else. Anything else. PNW loam and Wolftooth are my go to levers.

Bx/tx isn’t that bad. Better than some, and at least they don’t charge $60-100 as an add on for a lever. That said, a converted shifter is 100x better, and a good option seeing that they clamp cable at post (or all of mine internal ones do)

 

[Jpez]

Bx/tx isn’t that bad. Better than some, and at least they don’t charge $60-100 as an add on for a lever. That said, a converted shifter is 100x better, and a good option seeing that they clamp cable at post (or all of mine internal ones do)

Yeah well as mentioned sample size of one.
Was crap from the factory and got worse and worse until it needed hulk force to push it.
tried everything to get it sorted.
Ripped it off, stuck a Wolftooth on and good as gold.

 

[blacksp20]

Well I have the 150mm OneUp on the way. A little concerned about some of the comments relating to the post clamp affecting the movement of the post. Surely the post sits in a sheath that is strong enough to not allow pressure to affect the actual post?

I’ve had no issues with mine binding.

 

[Nambra]

I’ve had no issues with mine binding.

Mine’s fine too, although I wonder whether it makes difference more generally if your post is slammed in the seat tube or protruding some way ie. where the seat post collar is actually clamping around the dropper post’s lower tube?

@DJ_m, the dropper lower tube will compress as you tighten the seat post collar - it’s just a thin aluminium tube after all. Consider the seat post collar torque spec as a maximum, rather than the necessary amount; only tighten it enough that the post doesn’t slip during use. My son’s bike has an old Xfusion HiLo Strate on it and when I tightened the seat post collar to specified torque the post wouldn’t raise - I had to back off the collar a smidge to restore function.

 

[beeb]

There's also the different cable connections with the OneUp droppers as well, V1 and V2.0 had that side-entry style that uses the cable outer to activate the dropper, but the later V2.1 droppers have the more convential inner-cable actuation. I've not owned either type, but apparently on bikes with lots of bends the updated actuator mechanism works a lot more easily.

Also, yes - getting too heavy handed on the clamp tension can make the dropper bind up some. Probably more likely on 30.9mm droppers compared to 31.6mm ad they often share internals, just the 30.9mm models get thinner outer walls due to the narrower outer diameter.

 

[yuley95]

Well this was a b'day present for me from my wife... looks like I'm too late as she has already made a purchase.. my first option which was the OneUp 150mm with an ethirteen vario lever.
All I'll need is a cable and I've read that not all cables are equal. True? Looking at some of the above replies regarding the OneUp not being as smooth, does anyone think a particular type/brand of cable would be best?

Not all cables are equal but just get a reasonable shimano or jag wire cable and you’ll be fine. As others have said, there’s not performance benefit to be gained by any expensive cable. You just want to avoid a really shit one that will corrode and become hard to shift inside the cable outer.

 

[Labcanary]

There's also the different cable connections with the OneUp droppers as well, V1 and V2.0 had that side-entry style that uses the cable outer to activate the dropper, but the later V2.1 droppers have the more convential inner-cable actuation. I've not owned either type, but apparently on bikes with lots of bends the updated actuator mechanism works a lot more easily.

Indeed, I have a V1 on my bike and the outer cable would wear down over time against the IR hole in the seat tube. So I changed it to a v2.1 actuator. Details here

 

[slimjim1]

Carbon paste on the post can help get the seat clamp torque down a bit further if needed, and stop the post moving around...probably works fine on alloy frames too, its pretty much just a grip paste.

 

[rowdyflat]

Disagree. I’m only 5’8”. I can rarely use a dropper with more than 150, but I definitely would if I could. Even just fast single track descents and corners....get it out of the way as much as possible.

What you mean you can’t pedal?

Got a good laugh out of that post.
Partly I like to make people think ,esp about "arms races"ie bigger is better .
The implications and the failures of logic.
I mean that if you drop the post too far you have to stand up to pedal up the next hill if it is close to the drop.

 

[moorey]

Got a good laugh out of that post.
Partly I like to make people think ,esp about "arms races"ie bigger is better .
The implications and the failures of logic.
I mean that if you drop the post too far you have to stand up to pedal up the next hill if it is close to the drop.

Lift for a few seconds...or yeah, stand up.

 

[rowdyflat]

My local track has some wild steep drops into 3 G outs that require pedalling so dont know what to do with that one.

 

[moorey]

My local track has some wild steep drops into 3 G outs that require pedalling so dont know what to do with that one.

Just leave it dropped. DHers don’t have the luxury, so just stand and pedal. Or lift between long sections. Have you looked what others are doing?
If you didn’t have a dropper, would you ride the track with the seat right up?

 

[DJ_m]

Consider the seat post collar torque spec as a maximum, rather than the necessary amount; only tighten it enough that the post doesn’t slip during use.

Thanks. Bike currently has a cam style seat post collar. Worth changing to a non cam style? I plan on buying a torque wrench. As for ‘spec’. Specialised don’t seem to publish torque specs, not that I can find. Anyway, not too worried.., needs to be just tight enough not to fall down right!

Not all cables are equal but just get a reasonable shimano or jag wire cable and you’ll be fine. As others have said, there’s not performance benefit to be gained by any expensive cable. You just want to avoid a really shit one that will corrode and become hard to shift inside the cable outer.

Realise now that the ether E-thirteen Vario lever comes with a cable so will see how that goes.

 

[blacksp20]

Indeed, I have a V1 on my bike and the outer cable would wear down over time against the IR hole in the seat tube. So I changed it to a v2.1 actuator. Details here

I think they all now come with the V2.1 actuator from the factory.

 

[PJO]

I think they all now come with the V2.1 actuator from the factory.

Yes bought one 6months ago for wifeys bike and it only came with the V2.1 actuator.

 

[Nambra]

Thanks. Bike currently has a cam style seat post collar. Worth changing to a non cam style? I plan on buying a torque wrench. As for ‘spec’. Specialised don’t seem to publish torque specs, not that I can find. Anyway, not too worried.., needs to be just tight enough not to fall down right!

You can still use a cam style collar but you won’t be able to know what amount of clamping force you have - a bolt clamp would be better. As far as torque specs go, 3-5 Nm is probably enough for most seatposts, but as you say, just tight enough to remain secure.

Another good thing to remember is that if you have a stack and the saddle / dropper rotate, don’t try to force it back into position as you could damage the dropper post internals. Loosen off the seatpost collar before straightening it up - a multi tool is very much worth having with you when riding.

 

[rowdyflat]

Just leave it dropped. DHers don’t have the luxury, so just stand and pedal. Or lift between long sections. Have you looked what others are doing?
If you didn’t have a dropper, would you ride the track with the seat right up?

DHers can eat a dick.
Most others too scared to ride it, so only me.
Rode it the last 20 years with seat down about 35 mm from ideal pedalling height and just got weight back over wheel.
Just saying droppers are great for a prolonged descent but when its down then steeply up you have to compromise.

 

[moorey]

DHers can eat a dick.
Most others too scared to ride it, so only me.
Rode it the last 20 years with seat down about 35 mm from ideal pedalling height and just got weight back over wheel.
Just saying droppers are great for a prolonged descent but when its down then steeply up you have to compromise.

Agree to disagree. Droppers are for when you want it constantly up and down with changing terrain.

 

[Jpez]

DHers can eat a dick.
Most others too scared to ride it, so only me.
Rode it the last 20 years with seat down about 35 mm from ideal pedalling height and just got weight back over wheel.
Just saying droppers are great for a prolonged descent but when its down then steeply up you have to compromise.

Now I’m confused. I thought droppers go up AND down as required. Can’t see where or how you have to compromise.