Dura-ace/xtr Chain Cn7701 ?????

Rat

Likes Dirt
I'm looking into buying the above chain, but I want to know about joining links for them.

I have read that with all Shimano chains you need to use their special long pin that you have to snap the end off. That sounds like a hassle and would cost me valuable race time if I broke a chain in a race.

Is there a good easy to use joiner that I could use with the above chain for breakage repair ?
 

LTR

Annoys the hell out of Grip!
Its a really easy way to put a chain together, without compromising with strength. There is a smaller diameter in the first half of the pin, so it slips in easily and makes sure the pin is going in straight whilst holding your chain together. Then you use a chain-breaker tool, and push the pin through with that til it sits nicely, then you use pliers and break off the end of the pin which has the smaller diameter. Easy. ;)
 

Rat

Likes Dirt
Hmmm, ok but I don't carry pliers in my seat bag, how much force is needed to break the end off ?
 

gravelclimber

Likes Dirt
You can use a SRAM joiner link instead (cost about $1). I use one with an XTR chain and have never broken one. Doesn't affect shifting.
 

udi

swiss cheese
Third that. I'm using a KMC joiner with my XTR/CN7701 and it has been going great.

Good choice on chain btw. :)
 

bazza

look at me
hehehhehe im joining the bandwagon and picked up a durace/xtr chain the other day to replace my old flogged out hg (dont know what level one it was though...) and im thinking i should stop being lazy and get a new cluster as well..mind you none of the gears are near close to getting shark toothed though. is it still highly recommended i get a new cluster as well? if so anyone got one for sale heheheh.
 

Cave Dweller

Eats Squid
I use an XTR chain with a connex link.

Been using that combo for 2 or so years. Been on XTR chains for at least 3 years. Had only one problem with it 2 months ago when the joining link came undone while hammering through a really rocky section. I have never had an XTR chain snap on me.

Recommend it at the moment, its great to be able to pull your chain off, give it a degrease, clean, and a lube every couple of rides. But if it comes undone again i will ditch the joining links and go back to shimano pins
 

Cave Dweller

Eats Squid
bazza said:
hehehhehe im joining the bandwagon and picked up a durace/xtr chain the other day to replace my old flogged out hg (dont know what level one it was though...) and im thinking i should stop being lazy and get a new cluster as well..mind you none of the gears are near close to getting shark toothed though. is it still highly recommended i get a new cluster as well? if so anyone got one for sale heheheh.
New chain = New cluster. Should always change them at the same time.
 

bazza

look at me
Cave Dweller said:
New chain = New cluster. Should always change them at the same time.
damn. yeah figured that. hermmmmm my xt rear der is pretty flogged out already so im thinking of just changing over to a road set up for the dh bike. what is the best cluster to give me maximum range but still be able to handle shimano road rear deraliurs? i have no idea what ranges they come in.
 

wtr

Likes Dirt
bazza said:
damn. yeah figured that. hermmmmm my xt rear der is pretty flogged out already so im thinking of just changing over to a road set up for the dh bike. what is the best cluster to give me maximum range but still be able to handle shimano road rear deraliurs? i have no idea what ranges they come in.
Cassette: 105s 25-11t
Derailleur: 105 SC
Cable: Aztec Powerlink
Shifter: you existing one or LX

You might want to take some time to get used to the set up if u run a 36t up front, but once you are comfortable with it, you'll be smiling.:)
 

wombat

Lives in a hole
bazza said:
damn. yeah figured that. hermmmmm my xt rear der is pretty flogged out already so im thinking of just changing over to a road set up for the dh bike. what is the best cluster to give me maximum range but still be able to handle shimano road rear deraliurs? i have no idea what ranges they come in.
I'm running a CN737 (XT) 8spd cassette in 11-28T with a 105 short cage mech and it's quite happy, although I wouldn't go any larger that 28T.
 

bazza

look at me
hmmmm 8spd ey. any 9spd's out there with the same or very similar spread? even a 27 or so? i have run a road set up before, however it was very dodgy, ie hunt around bike shop for parts to make up an 8spd system and only a tiagra rear mech.
 

bradh

Likes Bikes and Dirt
bazza said:
hmmmm 8spd ey. any 9spd's out there with the same or very similar spread? even a 27 or so? i have run a road set up before, however it was very dodgy, ie hunt around bike shop for parts to make up an 8spd system and only a tiagra rear mech.
Shimano do 9-speed 12-27 cassettes, but if you want 11-27, you'll have to make your own.
 

Rat

Likes Dirt
Thanks for the replies, I bought my new XTR/CN7701 and will fit it soon. I think I will just carry a spare shimano connecting pin for now.

I read a warning on the back of the chain packet saying........

"Use neutral detergent to clean the chain. Do not use alkaline based or acid based detergents such as rust cleaners as it may result in damage and/or failure of the chain"

Well I have been using a cheap spray on degreaser from the local discount shop for my old chain without problems, but it doesn't tell me the active ingredients on the can. Do you think it would be safe to keep using this on my new chain ???
 

bazza

look at me
hermmmmm cant answer that one but listen to what the other fools have said, get a sram or connex connecting link and use that for on the trail. its a hell of a lot easier than trying to use a freakin connecting pin!!!
 

Cave Dweller

Eats Squid
Rat said:
Thanks for the replies, I bought my new XTR/CN7701 and will fit it soon. I think I will just carry a spare shimano connecting pin for now.

I read a warning on the back of the chain packet saying........

"Use neutral detergent to clean the chain. Do not use alkaline based or acid based detergents such as rust cleaners as it may result in damage and/or failure of the chain"

Well I have been using a cheap spray on degreaser from the local discount shop for my old chain without problems, but it doesn't tell me the active ingredients on the can. Do you think it would be safe to keep using this on my new chain ???
I drop mine in a tub of metho and give it a good scrub with a brush, dry it and relube it. Easy as pie if you use a connecting link.
 

bazza

look at me
what type of lube are you using? just out of curiosity/extra info for him. i heard pedro's dry lube did a damn good job!
 

Cave Dweller

Eats Squid
bazza said:
what type of lube are you using? just out of curiosity/extra info for him. i heard pedro's dry lube did a damn good job!
I use tri-flow wet lube. I don't like dry/wax lube, i find it attarcts more dirt then the wet lube, is harder to clean off and doesn't seem to really get inside the links to lubricate like the wet stuff.
 

udi

swiss cheese
I clean mine with dishwashing detergent and a toothbrush.
If you are going to use harsher stuff you'll find kerosene works the best as it is oil based and will cut through the grease much better than metho will. But I don't find the need really.

And for lube, I use ATF hehe.. how poor. It's been working great, just lube up and spend some time wiping all the excess off. Thanks to the joiner link I clean/relube once a week, or once every two weeks at the worst; I think the regularity is the important part. :)

I've tried triflow before and i'll go back to it someday, I too like the idea of wet lube over dry.
 
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