First trail wheelset advice

yuley95

soft-arse Yuley is on the lifts again
i find this spoke calculator pretty good and it gives you all the details fo the hope hub so you can cross’s check on the DT spoke calculator.

for the rim, just put 601 in the ERD section at the top rather than looking for the ex511 in the drop down (hope that makes sense.

Either way, looks like the rear also needs 16 x 290mm and 16 x 292

377386
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Forgive my ignorance, I've never organised for a wheel build before.

So the spoke calculator says for the Hope hubs and DT rims, I need these spokes for the front wheel:

Left spoke length: 290.6
Right spoke length: 291.4

But the DT Champ spokes come at lengths of 290 & 292

View attachment 377364

I assume that the 290 & 292 lengths are the right ones for me. Is that right?
Yes. I always round off to the nearest even-numbered increment. It's never let me down. :)
 

Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
This guy makes a case of going longer rather than shorter:
Wheel fanatyk blog
Definitely go longer, I usually round up to the nearest 2mm. It's always better to be a little long than short, so that the spoke supports the nipple head properly. You can also correct with extra shims if necessary.

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johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
OK, more noob questions from me about wheel builds:


I'm sure that there will be more questions.
 

blacksp20

Likes Bikes and Dirt
OK, more noob questions from me about wheel builds:

I'm sure that there will be more questions.
You need hubs, rims, spokes, nipples and washers for the nipples. Shims are only used at the head of the spoke if you are using a hub with a badly worn flange.

The spokes you listed are 2.0mm or 14G at the threads. The first linked nipples are what you want. Go with standard, 14G in 12mm length with your choice of colour. The DT nipples you linked are 15G (1.8mm) and won’t fit those spokes.

Normally the rim manufacturer will specify if washers are to be used and sometimes supply them (thanks Spank) so check your rim manufacturers specs. If you’re still using DT I think they recommend washers.
https://www.dirtworksb2b.com.au/rim-nipple-washer-pw7542

I used lanolin as a lubricant and thread lock when I built my wheels. It lubricates on assembly but dries tacky to hold the nipples a bit. Not sure if it’s required but it was advised earlier in this thread and it worked well for me.
 
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Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
You need hubs, rims, spokes, nipples and washers for the nipples. Shims are only used at the head of the spoke if you are using a hub with a badly worn flange.

The spokes you listed are 2.0mm or 14G at the threads. The first linked nipples are what you want. Go with standard, 14G in 12mm length with your choice of colour. The DT nipples you linked are 15G (1.8mm) and won’t fit those spokes.

Normally the rim manufacturer will specify if washers are to be used and sometimes supply them (thanks Spank) so check your rim manufacturers specs. If you’re still using DT I think they recommend washers.
https://www.dirtworksb2b.com.au/rim-nipple-washer-pw7542

I used lanolin as a lubricant and thread lock when I built my wheels. It lubricates on assembly but dries tacky to hold the nipples a bit. Not sure if it’s required but it was advised earlier in this thread and it worked well for me.
+1 to all of this. Washers are a good idea one any rim without eyelets, or ENVEs. Add 1mm to the spoke calc, except where the manufacturer explicitly includes washers. Rims like Dt ex471 already take into account washers in their erd.

I use the late great Sheldon Brown (https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html) for a great explanation and links to resources like spoke calculators.

Lanotec is my nipple lubricant of choice. Ensures that the nipples don't corrode, bind or slip and that retuning will always be possible. Avoid prolock and alloy nipples like the plague.

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PJO

in me vL comy
I use boiled linseed oil as a lubricant which then dries out and acts a little like a thread locker.
Have in the past just used motor oil and weak Loctite. The Loctite goes off too quickly for my liking.
 

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
Thank you, all.

Now that I think about it, there was a bag of nipples and crap that came with the DT rims. There's probably some washers in there that will work just fine. I recall some one suggesting that I not use those nipples (likely alloy) and get brass ones, as listed above.
 

yuley95

soft-arse Yuley is on the lifts again
Thank you, all.

Now that I think about it, there was a bag of nipples and crap that came with the DT rims. There's probably some washers in there that will work just fine. I recall some one suggesting that I not use those nipples (likely alloy) and get brass ones, as listed above.
This is correct. Use the washers but the nipples will be alloy and should be avoided
 

ashes_mtb

Has preferences
Quick question for my build; is there any point worrying about butted spokes for a commuter/occasional bike packing / occasion gravel grinder, or is straight gauge fine?
 

ashes_mtb

Has preferences
How do I work out what size spoke wrench I need? Going with pillar brass 14g nipples, but can’t find the spec anywhere.
 
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