Giant Anthem X 29er - See first post for info
- Thread starter Jubas
- Start date
extreme_dog
Likes Bikes
Can't really comment on the X1, but spec wise alone I'd the X0 or better again track down the 2011, should be able to get one of those at a really good price. I rate the X0 though, great bike.
Newbie here but having a reason
Well I’m just about confirming order for Anthem X2 2012. 190cm body moving from Kelly’s 26” HT. Because of my back I’m not going to race, willing to win but love to ride fast.
In my surrounding there are mostly narrow forests with roots, sands and small uphills.
Why can’t I sleep.
Afraid that Anthem (size L) would be the same position as Hacker – racy, stretched, lied on arms..
Sense tells me to buy 29” FS to have better comfort, @ opinions say that if I want more comfort than I should take Trance.
Well trance is still 26 and more plushy.
Anyone had similar experience, anyone can tell me what is the position on Anthem? (In Poland) 29: anthems are expected for the first time in March 2012.
Well I’m just about confirming order for Anthem X2 2012. 190cm body moving from Kelly’s 26” HT. Because of my back I’m not going to race, willing to win but love to ride fast.
In my surrounding there are mostly narrow forests with roots, sands and small uphills.
Why can’t I sleep.
Afraid that Anthem (size L) would be the same position as Hacker – racy, stretched, lied on arms..
Sense tells me to buy 29” FS to have better comfort, @ opinions say that if I want more comfort than I should take Trance.
Well trance is still 26 and more plushy.
Anyone had similar experience, anyone can tell me what is the position on Anthem? (In Poland) 29: anthems are expected for the first time in March 2012.
silentbutdeadly
has some good things to say
It's fair to say that the OE bar and saddle on the X29 are not things of comfort.
The flat bar with very little sweep and that damn Fizik saddle combine to give great position but hammered contact points. I've since swapped the bars for a strongly swept Ragley Carnegie alloy riser (with Ergon GX2 grips) and the saddle for a Selle Italia SL XC Flow. Upshot is that I have the weight off the hands and a more comfortable body position....I could ride the thing all day without complaint (instead of just half of it!).
So yes the Anthem is a stretched fit in stock form - but easy to sort out.
The flat bar with very little sweep and that damn Fizik saddle combine to give great position but hammered contact points. I've since swapped the bars for a strongly swept Ragley Carnegie alloy riser (with Ergon GX2 grips) and the saddle for a Selle Italia SL XC Flow. Upshot is that I have the weight off the hands and a more comfortable body position....I could ride the thing all day without complaint (instead of just half of it!).
So yes the Anthem is a stretched fit in stock form - but easy to sort out.
This one of crucial points for me , thanks “silentbutdeadly”
From my research it looks that Anthem 29 is the best choice when looking on type of riding and wheel size.
Small tuning of bar and stem may be the solution for ultra-sport position – I think I’ll go this way.
I have a 2011 Meduim X29 which I'm very happy with - except the bars which I find too wide and too straight. I've noticed my natural hand postion would suit a bar with more sweep.
A question for everyone that has changed the bar/stem combo for a riser bar with more sweep. When you change the stem are you taking into account the additional rise and sweep of the bars so as to replicate the current position? i.e if changing the bars only, a bar with more back sweep would bring your hands and shoulders (ie weight) back and a bar with 20mm rise would put you more upright by 20mm. The original stem on my the Medium is 100mm with 8deg so I'm thinking then to reatain a similar position the stem may need to be 110mm and 6deg - this might also help to keep the weight on the front wheel.
Hopefully I'm not over analysing this - I realise for the usual few laps of your local these numbers might not mean much given that your position changes a fair bit when riding sniggle but when doing a 100km enduro they might. Anyway, thought I'd ask.
A question for everyone that has changed the bar/stem combo for a riser bar with more sweep. When you change the stem are you taking into account the additional rise and sweep of the bars so as to replicate the current position? i.e if changing the bars only, a bar with more back sweep would bring your hands and shoulders (ie weight) back and a bar with 20mm rise would put you more upright by 20mm. The original stem on my the Medium is 100mm with 8deg so I'm thinking then to reatain a similar position the stem may need to be 110mm and 6deg - this might also help to keep the weight on the front wheel.
Hopefully I'm not over analysing this - I realise for the usual few laps of your local these numbers might not mean much given that your position changes a fair bit when riding sniggle but when doing a 100km enduro they might. Anyway, thought I'd ask.
Knopey
Likes Dirt
Like you I found the stock bars terrible for my wrists due to lack of sweep. I swapped for bars with some sweep and also rise though in a deliberate move to give me a position which was more forgiving for my back and shoulders on longer rides. A bit less aggressive maybe, but it works for me for marathons etc.
As well as flipping your stem which would make a dramatic difference, there are spacers under the stem in stock form which can easily be removed or put on top of the stem to take out the 15 or 30mm or whatever of rise that riser bars give you - voila, sweep with no added rise.
silentbutdeadly
has some good things to say
I've swapped the OE bar for an extreme sweep alt bar - the previously mentioned Ragley Carnegie. Mine is the alloy +ve 25mm riser version (there are also a -ve 25mm riser and flat versions in alloy). The stem is original. And yes this took my original position into account. My riding environment is basically flat, fast and twisty over soft ground. And I felt the shoulders forward position I had was not ideal for this environment nor was it entirely comfortable. My first effort to adjust the position was to chop the OE bar down by 30mm either side and fit Ergon GX2 grips with little bullhorns. The grips made more of a difference than anything else. The bar chop helped in the narrow confines of the saltbush but that's about it.
The new bar has brought my hands back and roughly into midline between stem end and the steerer and lifted them about 20mm centre to centre (see the pics). So I'm slightly more upright and the steering feels more...direct (or maybe I'm just telling myself that). If I was in a more topographically interesting part of the world then I'd give very strong consideration to the -ve rise bar and (perhaps) a 110 - 120mm stem just to make the downhill control that bit better than the current set up would be...
Dictatorsaurus
Likes Bikes
My 2011 Anthem X29 has developed a creek. I can duplicate it by pushing down on the saddle or by holding the rear wheel and moving it side to side. It sounds like it's coming from the upper seat tube pivot.
Anyone experience the same issue?
Anyone experience the same issue?
Thanks guys. Some good info and suggestions there, it's always good to see what other people have done and why.
The medium came stock with 15mm of spacers and the stem setup +8deg. The stock bar with (I think) 5deg sweep puts the end of the bar at about 25mm back (straight edge and tape measure).
Trawling the net for info I found this site http://www.brightspoke.com/t/bike-stem-calculator.html and plugged in the details. Flipping the stem to -8deg will put the bars lower by just over 26mm and will increase the reach by about 9mm so we're getting close. I now have some numbers to go on with and can (hopefully) get it right the first time...
Thanks again.
The medium came stock with 15mm of spacers and the stem setup +8deg. The stock bar with (I think) 5deg sweep puts the end of the bar at about 25mm back (straight edge and tape measure).
Trawling the net for info I found this site http://www.brightspoke.com/t/bike-stem-calculator.html and plugged in the details. Flipping the stem to -8deg will put the bars lower by just over 26mm and will increase the reach by about 9mm so we're getting close. I now have some numbers to go on with and can (hopefully) get it right the first time...
Thanks again.
silentbutdeadly
has some good things to say
Seen it on a 26" Anthem. It's probably one of the pivot bearings has come a tiny bit loose. They need to be regularily checked for tightness but I don't know what the appropriate torque is.
The same bike also developed a creaky clunk in the drivetrain - turned out to be the cassette lockring had loosened off and the unloaded cassette components were moving on the freehub.
Dictatorsaurus
Likes Bikes
Took apart the suspension and felt the lower shock bearing were rough and notchy. I ordered the Maestro Bearing tool kit and Enduro Max bearings.
Very disappointed how flimsy the stock bearings are. I could probably take it to the dealer to get it fixed or replaced under warranty but to be honest I don't trust many people to service my bike. Especially when it comes to something critical as taking out and installing the bearings.
silentbutdeadly
has some good things to say
Don't disagree about the hanging up bit. However, apart from dramatically shortening the cable I don't see how I can do what you suggest whilst keeping the cable properly anchored to the fork...have you got pics to go to school on?Silent, your front brake cable routing is deadly.Pass it on inside of fork to save getting hung up in the bush.Ive seen it happen it can be nasty!range:
silentbutdeadly
has some good things to say
Gotcha. Understand now. Especially having had a better look at my bike. And I realise what the issue is. This is the way it came from the LBS where it was assembled by a specialist roadie - he (like me but for different reasons) obviously doesn't know all the MTB setup tricks.