Gluing metal

0psi

Eats Squid
Hey folks.

So my Schhram shifter wasn't working all that well and being bored at work I figures I'll pull it to pieces and rebuild it. Hopefully there's just a bit of gunk in there and a good clean and rebuild will have it working wonderfully again. Nope, turns out there's a little crack in a bit that means another bit sometimes doesn't to it's bit properly.

Long story short I was thinking I'll glue the bit back together and it will work like new. I know it can be done (most of a plane is held together with glue) but all my previous attempts at gluing anything metallic have failed dismally despite the package saying it will work with metal. My googling tells me Selleys Metallic cement or Gorilla glue will both work but I've been told other things will work and they just plain don't.

So does anyone have any experience with gluing alloy? Any real world experience would be much appreciated.
 

brisneyland

Likes Dirt
Is it actually aluminium?

I think you need an ally specific etch/primer and two pack epoxy if you want a decent structural bond.

The problem is that aluminium oxidises very rapidly on exposure to air and most glues don't bond well to aluminium oxide, hence the need for an etch/primer.
 

0psi

Eats Squid
Is it actually aluminium?
No idea :noidea:

Although the rest of your post isn't filling me with confidence, was hoping someone would come on here and say, "Yeah, use ***** and you'll never get the suckers apart!" :pout:

Edit: Oh, and what started as a crack is now 2 pieces. Bugger.
 

redbruce

Eats Squid
No idea :noidea:

Although the rest of your post isn't filling me with confidence, was hoping someone would come on here and say, "Yeah, use ***** and you'll never get the suckers apart!" :pout:

Edit: Oh, and what started as a crack is now 2 pieces. Bugger.
Probably a better start anyway. You can see the surface condition and no need to rely on a wicking adhesive.

I have had a bit of success with 24hr araldite (much stronger than 5 minute), cured in an oven at low temp (50 degrees) on cast aluminium, diecast, cast iron and even some plastics. Many of which were small parts.

Success depends on many things, surface oxidation (but can be fixed with suitable primer), and bonded surface area to load (or more specifically how much and how far from the repair surface the load is applied).

I'd give it a go. What are your alternatives other than replacing the unit.
 

harmonix1234

Eats Squid
Hey folks.

So my Schhram shifter wasn't working all that well and being bored at work I figures I'll pull it to pieces and rebuild it. Hopefully there's just a bit of gunk in there and a good clean and rebuild will have it working wonderfully again. Nope, turns out there's a little crack in a bit that means another bit sometimes doesn't to it's bit properly.

Long story short I was thinking I'll glue the bit back together and it will work like new. I know it can be done (most of a plane is held together with glue) but all my previous attempts at gluing anything metallic have failed dismally despite the package saying it will work with metal. My googling tells me Selleys Metallic cement or Gorilla glue will both work but I've been told other things will work and they just plain don't.

So does anyone have any experience with gluing alloy? Any real world experience would be much appreciated.
When I used to build rockets I used 5 minutae araldyte on aluminium and it bonded really well.
Just a little rub with some sandpaper to get a surface and make sure it's clean.
Do a test though. Find an old scrap of alu and give it a whirl. Sets rigid but not glassy. Great stuff.
 

0psi

Eats Squid
I'm intimately familiar with 5 minute Araldite, I once even used it to glue a fishing rod to my chest but that's a story for another day.

I've used it for bonding many things usually with great success however it never seemed to work too well with alloy but then again I didn't sand the surfaces first. Maybe that's where I went wrong. Didn't think of curing it in an oven either.
 

bootsandall

Likes Dirt
Industrial adhesive

First off best option is replace part, can you get just the broken element? I would avoid welding if it is small and crucial in the way it works Tigging it will most likely lead to distortion, there is amazing welders out there the guys that build rally cars for neil bates have a drink can that is welded together, top Coke bottom sprite but it most likely not going to be cheap.
If the part is small and aluminium then adhesive with support material is your best bet. Try googling industrial suppliers in your area, they may stock some very speccy adhesives that I have seen at my local industrial supplier down here in Canberra.
And sometimes it just easier and quick to hand over the cash.
Good luck
 

MudRhino

Likes Dirt
Yeah what cookie said - get it tig welded- will be like new and will probably cost $5.

Glue wont cut it.
 

Isildur

The Real Pedant
I've used JB Weld on a few occasions for similar stuff. Works really well, as long as the surfaces are clean. Can be found at Bunnings pretty easily these days :)

Good luck!
 

trailworx

Likes Bikes
I have used Devcon heaps on all sorts of metal parts, it is a 2 part epoxy like araldite, but is made to work on metals. If Devcon doesn't work I'd say no glue would. 2 stroke tuners use it to change the shape of the ports, so if it falls off it destroys the piston and bore, but I have never heard of it failing, pretty good stuff.
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
You're probably pushing shit uphill with a toothbrush, but hey, you don't know if you don't try. Whatever of the above suggestions you choose to try, be sure to really thoroughly clean all traces of the shifter's lubricating agent off; any oil/grease/other slippery shit will ensure your adhesive agent doesn't adhere to anything that you want it to.
 

MARKL

Eats Squid
Please video the response from the welder when you ask him to weld those two little bits of alloy together!
 
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