Great, now I don't like my new forks - Pyga Hyrax build thread

So I only rode the local fire trails, which have some small single track areas, which you'd hardly even call single track, TBH. So I don't have much to go on, and given that my last fork had serious sticktion problems at the top end, I'm not comparing apples to apples here. With that as context:
  • The increased small high-speed compression sensitivity is quite apparent. Although, not sure that it's enough to mean less sore/tiredness in the hands.
  • Even with the slow speed compression completely dialed, these forks seem to bob and dive more than the older version did (keep i mind that I have to try dialing a few things yet).
  • I might consider trying some tokens in this model as I've never used them in any fork at all before.
I need to cut that fucking steerer down....
 
By the dirt of them wheels, it looks like you have the same bike washing regimen as me... watch those new buttery stanchions, Lyriks dont like the dust.
 
Drop the lowers before you do anything else. Make sure the seals are properly packed with suspension grease and there is an appropriate amount of splash lube. Make sure the foam rings are properly soaked in splash lube.

As soon as you feel any stiction coming back do this again. You want to service the lowers before the grease in the seals is used up and the foam rings get dry. The grease and wet foam rings stop dirt reaching the bushings.

I have never had a fork come from the factory with the seals properly packed with grease and sometimes even the foam rings have been dry.

If you don't trust yourself to feel the stiction increasing then check them at 50 hours. Over time you'll get an idea for how frequently your fork needs servicing.

It's a 10 min job. Leave the fork on the bike. Remove the front wheel and brake caliper and then drop the lowers.
 
SummitFever said:
Drop the lowers before you do anything else. Make sure the seals are properly packed with suspension grease and there is an appropriate amount of splash lube. Make sure the foam rings are properly soaked in splash lube.

As soon as you feel any stiction coming back do this again. You want to service the lowers before the grease in the seals is used up and the foam rings get dry. The grease and wet foam rings stop dirt reaching the bushings.

I have never had a fork come from the factory with the seals properly packed with grease and sometimes even the foam rings have been dry.

If you don't trust yourself to feel the stiction increasing then check them at 50 hours. Over time you'll get an idea for how frequently your fork needs servicing.

It's a 10 min job. Leave the fork on the bike. Remove the front wheel and brake caliper and then drop the lowers.
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Sounds like a wise thing to do. Any advice on which grease to use? (Servicing forks is completely new to me.)
 
I thought that the front felt a little high when I rode it.

Seems they didn't drop the fork to 150mm before sending it to me. Which is strange as I called them to check that they were going to (and they had my previous fork which was at 150mm) and the guy said we was working on the fork right at that moment.

Not sure where to measure if from - top of the lower or top of the seal, so I've taken a pic of both.

Fork 160mm s 2.jpg
Fork 160mm s.jpg
 
The top pic is the correct way to measure it. 155... It's less than 160, I doubt the crown would ever hit the seal, and allow 3mm for the o-ring, leaves you with 152... About as close as you're going to get m8.
 
johnny said:
Sounds like a wise thing to do. Any advice on which grease to use? (Servicing forks is completely new to me.)
Click to expand...
Any silicon based grease will work but you can't go wrong with any of the proper suspension greases like @Flow-Rider suggested. For splash lube use some fully synthetic motor oil or if you don't have any of that from car servicing then use one of the special splash lube oils.
 
Mattyp said:
The top pic is the correct way to measure it. 155... It's less than 160, I doubt the crown would ever hit the seal, and allow 3mm for the o-ring, leaves you with 152... About as close as you're going to get m8.
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Yeah, at 155mm I'm not going to complain. Surprising that even 5mm difference is noticeable when I'm on the bike.
 
SummitFever said:
Presumably that means they dropped the lowers before installing them? Ie. They don't trust them from the factory.
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I bought a Canyon and they had a lower leg service late last year. Yes they were dirty but they said it was a decently stocked fork in terms of oil and grease.
 
Can I suggest you get in the habit of wiping the stanchions down on the regular or you’ll end up with a fork that resembles the old one in no time at all especially if you don’t service them yourself regularly.
IMG_3944.jpeg
 
Jpez said:
Can I suggest you get in the habit of wiping the stanchions down on the regular or you’ll end up with a fork that resembles the old one in no time at all especially if you don’t service them yourself regularly.
View attachment 415842
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You can.

I intend on getting into the habit of hosing after each ride.

I already forgot on day one.

New habits are hard.
 
I've never wiped or cleaned any stanchions and also avoid washing the bike except if it's muddy then I'll give it a gentle spray down with the garden hose while the mud is still moist.

I ride everyday and the majority of my kays are on the dirt. I really don't have time to clean my bike because it's just dirty the next day but my forks last forever because I keep up with the maintenance. Current set has about 35000km on the original seals over the last 5 years. I change seals when I see dirt migrating past the second internal wiper (that lip about 0.5mm below the outer sealing lip) or if they show any signs of hardening or perishing.

Also, never put any lube on the stanchions. It will wash away or degrade the grease from within the seal. Detergent or degreaser will do the same thing.
 
johnny said:
I thought that the front felt a little high when I rode it.

Seems they didn't drop the fork to 150mm before sending it to me. Which is strange as I called them to check that they were going to (and they had my previous fork which was at 150mm) and the guy said we was working on the fork right at that moment.

Not sure where to measure if from - top of the lower or top of the seal, so I've taken a pic of both.

View attachment 415839View attachment 415840
Click to expand...
Empty the air, compress the fork fully and measure from the top of the seal to the bottom of the Oring. Theres always more stanchion showing than what the travels set at. You don’t want the seals to hit the crown at bottom out.
That’s a 150mm air shaft for sure.

Even just wiping the stanchions with your hand will do the trick. You just want to take the dust off.
 
Why is that side sucked up into the stanchion?!

When I let the air out the lowers pulled up towards the arch, is that supposed to happen? When I took the lowers off, only one side had the shaft extended. Now I can't screw the bolt into that side to reattach the lowers!!

WTF???!!!


Service issues 1s.jpg
Service issues 2s.jpg
 
Pumping air into it seems to extend it back out. Not sure if I should be doing that....
 
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