Handlebar Height/ rise questions

Big JD

Wheel size expert
I have a few queries and need you love and support. There are just so many options and well......................

On my FS bike i have 50mm stem (6 degree rise) with 800mm bars with a 20mm rise. The bars are a little low (noticable drop- saddle to bars) and unfortunately the steerer has been cut short. The pros of a higher rise bar should be better positioning and descending control- the cons might be climbing (front end wondering). Any other cons- steering, under/over, stiffness (running 35mm setup), ???? Would 10mm change anything?

On the HT- I have gone SS and currently running 65mm stem and 750mm x 20mm bars (31.8 setup). Should I be running wider/ flatter/ stiffer set up- cause im more often out of the saddle, wrenching on the bars. Should bars change with SSing because you are more often out of the saddle and require more leverage? Does rise matter as much on a SS ?

Im a big dude and do notice a difference from 31.8mm to 35mm. I run carbon bars- not alloy.

What you lot reckon?
 

notime

Likes Dirt
Also being a big dude on a Single Speed, I run my setup slightly higher than on all my other bikes, small bar rise and all my steerer. This is because when I'm out of the saddle I get too much back arch happening if it's too low, in long climbing rides especially 12 and 24hr's I really need to be able to keep a straight back out of the saddle for those sustained efforts or the lower back takes too much load.
 
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Bjorn

Likes Dirt
I also run my bars higher on the singlespeed as compared to a gearie.
The other thing I've used for the last 10 or 15 years, is DH bars on my singlespeeds. After feeling some disturbing flex and hearing some ominious creaking from my new XC bars as I reefed on them climbing through a technical section. It may be paranoia, but I feel a lot more confident.
 

Big JD

Wheel size expert
I also run my bars higher on the singlespeed as compared to a gearie.
The other thing I've used for the last 10 or 15 years, is DH bars on my singlespeeds. After feeling some disturbing flex and hearing some ominious creaking from my new XC bars as I reefed on them climbing through a technical section. It may be paranoia, but I feel a lot more confident.
yeah I have noticed the same. On a tight pump track the other day- i really notice some flex with my 750mm 31.8 bars compared to my 800mm 35mm ones. I was pumping and wrenching to maintain momentum. I am sold on 35mm or DH stiffer setup.
 

Big AC

Likes Dirt
An additional 10mm of handlebar height will take weight off the front wheel whilst climbing / on the flat; however, it won’t be a huge difference.

A 10mm move forward in seat position will make a much bigger difference when climbing. Seat position in relation to your rear hub (both how far above and in front of it) has a big influence on your front wheel staying down on steep climbs (read the pinkbike article on the pole evo link 140 for an extreme example). If you can slide your seat position forward slightly it will more than counteract the additional 10mm of handlebar height.

For descending a higher bar can help, as will a longer drop dropper which allows you to get more behind the bars instead of on top of them, a 100mm / 125mm dropper isn’t huge when you are 6’5”.

The biggest riser 35 800mm bar that I know of is the Renthal fatbar at 40mm of rise (their might be something boutique with more). Race face now do a SixC in 35mm rise with 820mm or width if you want it (they also do it in 800mm).

The TBLT isn’t the longest bike out there for reach, in fact its small by current standards, this can make you feel a bit over the handlebars when descending, you really have to hang off the back which can be aided by a longer dropper.

Bottom line: 10mm of extra rise in your handlebar won’t make a huge different to climbing, and the negatives can be counteracted. Whenever you trade in the TBLT go for something with a massive reach, I’m convinced that people our size need something huge (reach of 500mm or more at a decent stack height).
 

Mywifesirrational

I however am very normal. Trust me.
Been through this same issue over the last few years, I"m about the same height and a little heavier. I am also stuck with a lot of saddle to bar height, not a whole lot you can do with 105cm from pedal to saddle in regards to saddle to bar drop.

Currently running 780mm with 38mm rise, carbon fatbars or alloy, 31.8. I am the opposite, I dislike 35mm ride, to harsh / vibration on the hands.

Best thing I have found over the last 4 frames, is a long reach and seated length of the front triangle, even with a high bar position the longer reach helps keep the front planted whilst climbing, whilst concurrently being better for descending, jumping and everything else fun. Where as on the shorter bikes, I was forced to run the bars low so I didn't immediately fall off the back on anything actually steep. Current bike is 480 reach and its the first bike that feels spot on for fit.

Lastly, I also prefer tall bars and less stem spacers, not that you have a choice here, more stem spacers = shorter reach.
 

SDA

Likes Dirt
I'm a tall guy like yourself and have the same issues with large saddle to bar drop. I already run a RF Atlas 32mm rise bar and recently added another 10mm spacer under the stem. Yeah the front wheel wanders slightly when climbing but I can overcome this by slightly lowering my chest towards the bar and concentrating on not letting it wander. Very easy to overcome. The real positive has been in cornering on flat and downhill. The slightly higher bar has allowed me to properly weight the front wheel and still see where I am going down the trail. This is an issue with the new longer reach bikes... you need to raise the handlebars to make them work comfortably.
 

Big JD

Wheel size expert
So tall blokes run high rise bars because they are tall. The issues with climbing can be overcome and the benefits out weigh the issues.
 

Ezkaton

Eats Squid
6'3 here on 760/38mm rise bars, 50mm 0 rise stem with a few spacers under on a 470mm reach XL frame.

Probably the most comfortable I've felt on a trail/AM/enduro style ride.
 

notime

Likes Dirt
So tall blokes run high rise bars because they are tall. The issues with climbing can be overcome and the benefits out weigh the issues.
On the single speed a high bar height becomes fairly irrelevant climbing because you are standing up over the bars mostly anyway.

Bike handling then becomes the primary issue, love a low bar on tight single track.
 
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pharmaboy

Eats Squid
On the single speed a high bar height becomes fairly irrelevant climbing because you are standing up over the bars mostly anyway.

Bike handling then becomes the primary issue, love a low bar on tight single track.
Gotta have grip to stand up?

How are your forks JD? Maybe you just need an extra 20mm of travel up front. That would be a better way to lift the front.

Given average height dudes get along on 1 inch drop seat to bars pretty well, I don't think you could ever make the front too light (except if you have your arse way back plus offset seatpost coz your knees won't fit.....)
 

Big JD

Wheel size expert
I picked up a Niner carbon rdo 31.8 bar for the SS. It is 780mm wide with a 5 mm+- rise and feels good for now. I think if I go rigid then these bars will be great for compliance.

Might swap the Pikes on the FS for the 34s (currently on the SS) as the steerer is 12mm longer and stick with my current set up. That 12mm extra steerer length should get my bars at a more comfortable level.
 

batesy

Squid
Far out you boys like ya bars wide eh.... I run some risers on my khs soft tail 26er at 600mm wide my 29er are 720mm wide and that feels like a bus
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
^^ Wow, those words could almost have come out of my keyboard!

I'm also on a 26" short-travel dually, 600mm straight bar, -6 degree stem. Yep, lot of saddle-bar drop. Bit of a handful on trick descents (71-deg. HA adds to that), but climbs like a goat and is insanely fun & agile through flowy stuff. Big bars just feel like trying to drive a bus around a go-kart track.
 

Big JD

Wheel size expert
sometimes you find that you have made an issue out of something perceived rather than real. I thought my bars were too low from sight yet on the trail - I have no issues.

Sometimes one simply needs to breathe and walk out of the bike shop



I love wide bars - always have..
 

SDA

Likes Dirt
Given average height dudes get along on 1 inch drop seat to bars pretty well,
This makes sense.

I checked my seat to bar drop - it us now 1.5" with a 32mm rise bar and 20mm spacers under the stem. Feels much better.

Tall riders need high rise bars.
 

big gags

Likes Bikes
Got to agree on the wide bars JD - love them!! When I first went from 680 mm to 780 mm Renthals on the SS 29er it was a revelation - it seemed to open up my whole chest and make it a whole lot easier to breathe and the extra leverage allowed me to pull a bit harder on the bars when climbing. The first time I rode them I went up the dirt road climb directly opposite A Boy Named Sue in St Andrews for the first time on the SS (the one just after the concrete causeway - I think it's Black Cameron's Road) and there was no way I could have done it on 680 mm but I smashed it with the wider bars. It might be subjective but I also think that the bike handles better with the wider bars and the only times I have an issue with the width are one particular tree gap at Plenty Gorge and in the tight tree sections out at Candlebark!!

I'm also 6'5" and suffer from a big drop between seat and bars but it doesn't seem to worry me too much as I haven't known any different. The Yeti Hard Top that I got from you JD actually has slight bit more drop than my SS Karate Monkey and if you hadn't slammed the stem so efficiently I would definitely put about 20 mm of spacer under it (I am considering getting Grip Sport to extend it for me!!). I also found on the Yeti that I initially tried to run the shock on the longest travel setting but the front end was all over the place and it wasn't until I cranked it down as far as it would go that I could get it to handle properly.

Gags
 

pharmaboy

Eats Squid
Bars wider than your shoulders effectively drop the front. The wider the bars the lower your torso, same as lengthening the stem, flat bars etc so make more weight on the front wheel.

Obviously reverse applies if bars are narrower than your shoulders
 
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