Help with wheel building Canberra
- Thread starter Litenbror
- Start date
L.P.
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Everything DT Swiss builds is by hand so that sounds like pretty unusual reasoning.
The Squorx nipples aren't hugely different to a 12mm nipple. Just buy a Squorx driver, and you'll be sorted. Squorx is designed for more precise referencing than the other head options, and all nipples that are designed to be used through the rim are designed for less strain on your hand when building many wheels.
As with all alloy nipples, lubricate the rim/nipple interface before turning. This is the reason for binding and people stripping nipples. The Proloc will only wear off a little from reusing nipples so if you are careful and use the right tools there is no reason for not being able to reuse nipples.
What street? We'll be neighbours.
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SummitFever
Eats Squid
Maybe, but before squorx (which used a torx head, probably just to be different), Sapim created the double square nipples which are the same sort of thing only with a square drive. To quote sapim "Developed for special truing machines" - see https://www.sapim.be/nipples/design/double-square
Also, even if DT Swiss builds their name brand wheels by hand, that will be a microscopic proportion of total machine built wheels.
I don't know for sure, but if I was a betting man, I'd put my money on Squorx being developed to provide an alternative to Sapim double square for machine building wheels.
Litenbror
Eats Squid
Thanks T-Rex for the offer @SummitFever has kindly offered some help and tools and I'm in the process of breaking down the old wheels to get the hubs in preparation to swap with the new ones at the moment. Unfortunately with the kids and my wife traveling a fair bit I can't get out of the house much over the next few weeks but always keen for a ride at Stromlo with a fellow burner though so we should see if we can sort out a time that works.
Litenbror
Eats Squid
From loosing them off last night with a park tool 3 sided spoke wrench I can say that the Squorx nipples are a PITA to get off (caveat without the squorx wrench). The 3 sided spoke wrench made a huge difference over what I was using (thanks @SummitFever) but it was still 50/50 for the first 6 spokes or so whether they rounded off or not and I was using a hairdryer to heat the nipple and try and break to lock. Once the tension was off it was ok but one of the funniest things whas how inconsistent they were, one wouldn't move even with heat then the next no probs without heat so on so forth till the tension was off and they all gave way.
Oddjob
Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
And this is why pro lock is the work of the devil. Using a good lube like Lanotec or antiseize means that nipples tend to move concistently throughout the life of the wheel.
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Flow-Rider
Burner
This is exactly why you use an anti-seize grease on threads and contact points of the nipples. Don't use cheap spoke wrenches too as you will not be able to get the spokes up to correct tension without stripping a few.
hellmansam
Likes Bikes and Dirt
I used to do it by laying the wheel on the floor and pushing down on the rim, combined with grabbing the spokes in pairs and squeezing them to get the elbows to conform to the flange.
I spent a while reading the Wheel Fanatyk site the other day and it made me want to build wheels again - some nifty tools and stuff there.
SummitFever
Eats Squid
That's how I do it too.
EsPeGe
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Hi all so to continue with wheel building I followed Ali Clarkson's video (below) for my first two wheel builds (4 Wheels) and it worked a treat especially his "stressing" technique of standing on the wheel. Seriously it works awesome, have a crack. Watch from about 31:30 or so.
Ali Clarkson builds a wheel
Ali Clarkson builds a wheel
Litenbror
Eats Squid
Thanks everyone for your help especially big shout out to @T-Rex for you guidance and patience and @SummitFever. I'm not going to win and races building or riding them but they are round and should hold together.