Hollowtech 1 Removal Q

[rich2195]

I'm just trying to service my hollowtech 1 (LX) bottom bracket/cranks.
I'm not sure how you're supposed to remove the crank arms though...
Its not like the hollowtech II, but more like the old octalink/square spindle type.
The only problem being that the middle is hollow (duh) so that the old crank puller has nothing to push against.

Anyone have any tips??

thanks heaps

rich

 

[JP]

Not too familiar with these particular cranks but my Race face evolve Xc cranks require the use of a self extracting crank bolt. I have borrowed one tonight off BM Epic from his old Truvativ Stylo's.

 

[cameron_15]

leave the BB in the bike, place something in the middle of the spindle. something strong like a piece of metal in there. then remove the drive side crank. the little piece of metal metal will provide something fdor the crank puller to pull against. you could then loosely put the crank back on, give the allen key a couple of rotations , try not to do it to tight and get the cranks jammed again. then remove the non drive section.

after that, remove the cranks.

i've used this method to remove one crank only so i'm not to sure how the second crank will go. in my theory it should work.

 

[Stacks!]

there's a little plug that was made specially for removal of such cranks. Goto lbs, they'll charge like $5 and nothing will get damaged.
(if you too cheap for that a hex bolt usually does the trick, but its more fiddley becuase you nee to shave down the thickness of the head)

 

[Linz]

You can also use a washer that fits.

just make shore that the washer only is sitting in the end of the axle and not touching the crank then use the old style crank puller as normal.

 

[|Matt|]

Oh god. Ignore all the comments in this thread (sorry guys but those suggestions will wreck his cranks).

I'm assuming you're talking about the cap that is in the non drive side crank?

To remove the arms, all you do is undo the two pinch bolts in the non drive crank arm, then, if you don't have the tool (its $2.50 from an LBS that has one) just use an ISIS crank bolt wrapped in a cloth, it works well.

Pull the arm off, and then your drive side crank (which is connected to the axle) will pull out of the bottom bracket.

 

[Stacks!]

Oh god. Ignore all the comments in this thread (sorry guys but those suggestions will wreck his cranks).

I'm assuming you're talking about the cap that is in the non drive side crank?

To remove the arms, all you do is undo the two pinch bolts in the non drive crank arm, then, if you don't have the tool (its $2.50 from an LBS that has one) just use an ISIS crank bolt wrapped in a cloth, it works well.

Pull the arm off, and then your drive side crank (which is connected to the axle) will pull out of the bottom bracket.

isn't hollowtech 1 different to hollowtech 2 tho?
just assumed he needed a plug because of his mention of octalink.

 

[AngoXC]

Oh god. Ignore all the comments in this thread (sorry guys but those suggestions will wreck his cranks).

I'm assuming you're talking about the cap that is in the non drive side crank?

To remove the arms, all you do is undo the two pinch bolts in the non drive crank arm, then, if you don't have the tool (its $2.50 from an LBS that has one) just use an ISIS crank bolt wrapped in a cloth, it works well.

Pull the arm off, and then your drive side crank (which is connected to the axle) will pull out of the bottom bracket.

Stacks is right Matt, Hollowtech I is different to Hollowtech II. Hollowtech I used inboard bearings and a splined system (Octalink) which was 'Hollow', like the current crankset are.

Bares no resemblance to the XT shape just gone does it?

 

[BM Epic]

Thanks Ango,that is dead right,the original poster was asking just that,he was saying there are no pinch bolts,and that it was similair to square taper!
Not sure on the removal though!

 

[rich2195]

thanks for all the posts...
yes, it is hollowtech I not hollowtech II, so no little plastic bit or pinch bolts.
its 'exacly' like the old square spindle type, except it is hollow where the old square spindle was.

will try cameron_15's suggestion...sounds like it might work!?

I tried putting a 5c piece instead of a washer against the axle to push against as Linz suggested, but i now just have a funky looking bowl shaped coin. there is probably less than half a mm of axle showing around the inside of the crank arms, so the washer will have to be a pretty precise fit.

seems like a pretty 'fantastic' design all round. no wonder it didn't last long..

 

[jaseh]

Nothing wrong with the design, just get the right tool for the job. Even the cheap ass $20 crank pullers come with the fitting to remove hollowtech or ISIS cranks. Just get one as you will need it again if you intend on pulling the cranks off again.

 

[AngoXC]

The part in question looks like a small 'top hat'...

 

[le chat]

Hollowtech 1 should have self extracting crankbolts. They come in two pieces, a hollow bolt that screws the cranks to the spindle and a threaded cap that screws into the crank itself. The bolt has a flange that butts up against the cap. The cap is not structural in respect to securing the cranks in place. The shape of the bolt in profile looks like a Toob with a burger ring around it 1/4 of the way down.

To remove, just undo the central bolt with the cap in place with an 8mm allen key, the flange butts up against the cap and extracts the cranks The cap does not go anywhere as it is screwed into the cranks so the action of undoing the bolt causes the bolt to pull the cranks off the spindle.

To re-install remove cap, either with a special tool like circlip pliers but needle nose pliers will do if they fit into the two small holes on the top of the cap, reinstall cranks, tighten the bolt and replace cap as the reverse side of the flange butts up against the inside of the crank arm to pull it into the BB spindle.

It's a pretty neat system and allows very easy crank extraction as a specialist tool is not needed.

Hope this helps

LC

 

[JP]

I went to Blackmans yesterday and good ol' Chris offered me these options- buy a self extracting crank bolt for $30, buy a crank extraction tool for $20, or if you have a square taper type crank removal tool just use a thick washer or nut of appropriate size to fit on the gap in the spindle to remove crank arm.

Apparently the difference in crank removal tools is the end cap is larger to fill the void in the spindle.

If you decide to buy a self extracting crank bolt just make sure it's the correct size, because as I found out, the Truvativ one I got off BM Epic is of a larger size than a race Face one.