hope tech3 lever throw-bleeding

[Miguel75]

When bleeding my V4's, I use two of the Birzman tyre levers (pics below) as a bleed block. The diamond shaped cut out corresponds to diamond shaped pegs on the opposite side and allow them to be stacked. Two of them stacked are approx. 11mm thick and give me a great feel on the lever.I used to use an M820 bleed block but prefer the feel the Birzman option gives.

EDIT #2. I use the Hope bleed process detailed here;

This one: https://enduro-mtb.com/en/how-to-bleed-hope-tech-3-lever-and-e4-calliper/

This is the new bleed kit method:

 

[freeriding]

It's what I do, I close it off under light pressure if I can,

What exactly do you do? You mean that you insert more fluid with a syringe in the caliper bleed port when one finishes the bleed process?

Or you advance the pistons, when you are finished with the bleeding process?

 

[Gripo]

Had trouble bleeding some Hopes for the first time ever when I mated some V4 calipers with light weight non-adjustable Race levers....

Seems like the V4’s with their dual 18mm pots had some areas that held air pockets...

Took a few traditional bleeds ie. fluid in the lever reservoir - bleed via caliper nipple and tapping on the lever/hose/caliper to dislodge the air pockets....

Then there was the looonng lever throw to pad bite point....fixed this by closing the pads in via brake lever with a steel ruler keeping the brake pads a couple mm’s apart.

Once this was done, I inserted the disc rotor pushing the pads apart...and all was good, minimal lever throw to bite point.

Was a root around but it worked in the end.

 

[tkdbboy]

The v4 calipers were made to be used with the v4 rotors which are thicker than regular rotors.
As guys mentioned above, pumping the pistons out a bit when wheel is removed helps a lot with excessive throw.
Also after every dozen rides, especially when muddy, I just remove the pads, pump the pistons out, clean the brakes then add a few drops of brake fluid on the protruding pistons and push them back in and check they all come out evenly and smoothly then set the pads up close to the rotors.

 

[RealizE]

I've had a love hate relationship with my Hopes for years. After reading this thread I decided to spend some proper time on them to see if I could get them setup better. Having air in the system is pretty easy to diagnose with the lever getting firmer with rapid consecutive pumps. If it doesn't change with pumping, there's generally no air in the system and the lever play is coming from the pad/rotor alignment.

The caliper being off center by one poofteenth of a cunthair is enough to introduce play in the lever as the rotor bends. This is something I have never really took the time to check carefully. I've always looked at the marks on the caliper, centered it good enough and that's it. I now realise that the tiniest tiniest bit of rotor flex translates to heaps of free movement in the lever. Spending 10 minutes pulling the lever and getting the pistons and caliper aligned perfectly made a world of difference. Absolutely stoked with the results!

 

[tkdbboy]

Bit of a revive ...

What are you guys using to lube your pistons after you clean them?

Dot 5.1 or silicone grease (as per Hope video)

Have you used both and noticed a difference of one over the other?

 

[Joe_MTB]

Bit of a revive ...

What are you guys using to lube your pistons after you clean them?

Dot 5.1 or silicone grease (as per Hope video)

Have you used both and noticed a difference of one over the other?

I’ve got one piston on my E4’s that’s always been sticky. The only thing that’s worked on it is red rubber grease.
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/herschell-herschell-red-rubber-grease-tube---100g/402031.html

I should probably replace the seal but seems like a big job so I just add some of this every 6 months or so

 

[tkdbboy]

Second revive ... I rebuilt my rear V4 caliper with fresh pistons and seals, gave it a full bleed using the Hope easy bleed tool but my pistons don't seem to be moving out as much as they used to per lever pump.
I bled it again for good measure (flicking the lever, rotating the caliper and also tapping it with a rubber end of a screwdriver to get any bubbles to dislodge). When I took the bladder off for the second time, the fluid was at max in the lever reservoir.
Also exercised the pistons out and in a few times. They push in fine and I don't feel any extra resistance.
Only different thing I've done is I just soaked all the seals and pistons in DOT5.1, rather than use any silicon grease.

If there's extra resistance from the lack of using grease, then surely only the lever would be a bit harder to pump and not effect how much the pistons move per pump?

 

[teK--]

You've still got air in there.

Need to bleed it with all pistons in, all pistons out, some pistons out with others in, all whilst tapping the caliper whilst pushing fluid through. That's how you get it all out. And definitely use the silicon grease.

 

[tkdbboy]

You've still got air in there.

Need to bleed it with all pistons in, all pistons out, some pistons out with others in, all whilst tapping the caliper whilst pushing fluid through. That's how you get it all out. And definitely use the silicon grease.

Damn! OK will do. Which silicon grease do you use?

 

[teK--]

Damn! OK will do. Which silicon grease do you use?

Any that is the 99.9% silicon clear gel. You can get it from scuba diving shops or catering shops that sell espresso machines.

 

[tkdbboy]

Any that is the 99.9% silicon clear gel. You can get it from scuba diving shops or catering shops that sell espresso machines.

The silicone grease helped alot with consistency of equal movement between the pistons so thanks for the tips.

As per Hope's extra tips section on the bleed instructions, making sure the nipple is pointing directly up made a perfect bleed much easier.
Had to take it off the frame and just sit it inside my rear triangle.

 

[teK--]

The silicone grease helped alot with consistency of equal movement between the pistons so thanks for the tips.

As per Hope's extra tips section on the bleed instructions, making sure the nipple is pointing directly up made a perfect bleed much easier.
Had to take it off the frame and just sit it inside my rear triangle.

Sounds like you are almost done?

You would be surprised how much drag the seals have without grease on the pistons. When proper, you should be able to push pistons back in using your bare hands.

I made 2 bleed blocks by Dremel one piston position out. Each block is a mirror image of the other so you can flip each one 180 and use a block to hold 3 pistons in place whilst extending only one piston.

This is how you free up a particularly sticky piston, which might also be due to a small air bubble sitting behind it

 

[tkdbboy]

Sounds like you are almost done?

You would be surprised how much drag the seals have without grease on the pistons. When proper, you should be able to push pistons back in using your bare hands.

I made 2 bleed blocks by Dremel one piston position out. Each block is a mirror image of the other so you can flip each one 180 and use a block to hold 3 pistons in place whilst extending only one piston.

This is how you free up a particularly sticky piston, which might also be due to a small air bubble sitting behind it

Yep all done.

Ah that block would be very useful. I'm fortunate that my Pedros tyre lever is a trapezoid shape and the perfect height to slide in the caliper so I can block 3 pistons at once relatively easily. The easy bleed kit makes life alot easier too compared to the old way

 

[Tubbsy]

I think I may have quite a few Hope bleed blocks in the spares box if people need.

 

[rangersac]

I think I may have quite a few Hope bleed blocks in the spares box if people need.

I'll grab one @Tubbsy please! PM on the way

 

[Tubbsy]

I'll grab one @Tubbsy please! PM on the way

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