Hot tip thread.

moorey

call me Mia
Hey, I don’t recall one of these threads, but it covers what sometimes pops up in the Quick Question Thread and the Stupid Question Thread.

For those little things that we all forget if we aren’t thinking straight, haven’t done it before, or there’s no instructions.

First off:

Removing pedals:
They both UNDO the direction that your cranks freewheel. If fitting, obviously go opposite, and 99% of pedals have a L and R on the axle.
@wkkie says ‘Pedals = Back, off. That's how I remember...’. I always just remember the freewheeling direction.

Installing Bottom Bracket. (English threaded)
Whether bike is upright or upside down the drive side cup installs anti-clockwise. Non drive side installs clockwise. Naturally, opposite to remove.
Using 2 hands and doing both at the same time, they spin the same direction.
Some BB’s aren’t labeled L and R, or driveside on cups. Most do, and most have an arrow for the direction to tighten. I’ve seen some that don’t, unfortunately.

Tyre direction.
Co @BT180. Maxxis tyres have their model info on the drive-train side only. Makes it easy to mount them the right direction. Yellow Maxxis logo only on non-drive side.

Fitting tubeless.
@Oddjob reminds me to centre the bead in valley to assist getting tyre on. He says to remove valve, I don’t, but it’s the last spot I put on to make fitting easier. Bear outdoor masking tape is cheap and the shiz for rim tape. See below on our differing opinions.
Remove valve cores for greater air flow to inflate better.

@Lazmo says...My hot tip is... for tubeless, take folding tyres out of the packaging the day before fitting them up and place a tube inside the tyre, and pump it way up, to get the tyre into shape. Makes it much easier to seat and seal. Usually I don’t need the compressor, just the floor pump, if I do the tube trick.

Cockpit.
@Freediver reminds us when your (*you’re...sorry) putting brake levers, gear levers dropper remotes or whatever on your bars only do them up just tight enough to hold them, That way when you stack they move rather than break.

Throw up others you think of.
 
Last edited:

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
Hey, I don’t recall one of these threads, but it covers what sometimes pops up in the Quick Question Thread and the Stupid Question Thread.

For those little things that we all forget if we aren’t thinking straight, haven’t done it before, or there’s no instructions.

First off:

Removing pedals:
They both UNDO the direction that your cranks freewheel. If fitting, obviously go opposite, and 99% of pedals have a L and R on the axle.

Installing Bottom Bracket. (English threaded)
Whether bike is upright or upside down the drive side cup installs anti-clockwise. Non drive side installs clockwise. Naturally, opposite to remove.
Using 2 hands and doing both at the same time, they spin the same direction.
Some BB’s aren’t labeled L and R, or driveside on cups. Most do, and most have an arrow for the direction to tighten. I’ve seen some that don’t, unfortunately.

Throw up others you think of.
Or when seated on the bike facing forwards, left to right...

Left hand thread (pedal), Right hand thread (BB), Left hand thread (BB), Right hand thread (pedal).

When installing anything aluminium in carbon like a seat post or (spit) spoke nipples use plenty of antiseize, grease, carbon paste to stop galvanic corrosion.
 

moorey

call me Mia
Or when seated on the bike facing forwards, left to right...

Left hand thread (pedal), Right hand thread (BB), Left hand thread (BB), Right hand thread (pedal).

When installing anything aluminium in carbon like a seat post or (spit) spoke nipples use plenty of antiseize, grease, carbon paste to stop galvanic corrosion.
Better tip..avoid carbon ;)
 

Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
For mounting tubeless tyres:

1.2 revolutions of cloth tape cut to width plus 3.5 overlapping revolutions of 24mm bear blue outdoor masking tape to get a perfect seal on any rim up to 35mm id.

Lube tyre bead with something like armor all or even a really greasy rag.

Ensure bead is in the centre channel and away from the seat when mounting the tyre.

Remove valve core to seat the tyre.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 

moorey

call me Mia
For mounting tubeless tyres:

1.2 revolutions of cloth tape cut to width plus 3.5 overlapping revolutions of 24mm bear blue outdoor masking tape to get a perfect seal on any rim up to 35mm id.

Lube tyre bead with something like armor all or even a really greasy rag.

Ensure bead is in the centre channel and away from the seat when mounting the tyre.

Remove valve core to seat the tyre.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
Never had to remove a valve. Maybe it’s a narrow rim thing. If you do the valve point last, it’s easier to get tyre on. Defs have to push the bead into the valley though, to both fit and remove. That’s the mistake I see 98% of the time when people struggle. I never have to use tyre levers. If I can’t get one on and off by hand, I won’t run that tyre/rim combo.

Totes on the blue outdoor masking tape. That’s all I use these days. For most rims..unless really wide...I overlap the valve so it gets 3 layers, and the rest gets 2. An extra lap with more overlap for wide rims.
 

ashes_mtb

Has preferences
Pedals = Back, off. That's how I remember...
I just lean on the spanner until the threads strip and then start a WTB.
For mounting tubeless tyres:

1.2 revolutions of cloth tape cut to width plus 3.5 overlapping revolutions of 24mm bear blue outdoor masking tape to get a perfect seal on any rim up to 35mm id.

Lube tyre bead with something like armor all or even a really greasy rag.

Ensure bead is in the centre channel and away from the seat when mounting the tyre.

Remove valve core to seat the tyre.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
Does this work for old rims or just for new tubeless ready rims?
 

moorey

call me Mia
Good news. Do I need the tubeless rated tyres or will basic Maxxis work?
Depends on the tyre. Some will be slow to seal up, others are fine. Some just won’t.
Generally, they seem less cut resistant, are easier to puncture. Maxxis are better than most, in my experience. Both to bead, and seal up.

Edit. Softer, thinner side walls are usually harder to get to inflate.
 

Cardy George

Piercing rural members since 1981
Never had to remove a valve. Maybe it’s a narrow rim thing. If you do the valve point last, it’s easier to get tyre on. Defs have to push the bead into the valley though, to both fit and remove. That’s the mistake I see 98% of the time when people struggle. I never have to use tyre levers. If I can’t get one on and off by hand, I won’t run that tyre/rim combo.

Totes on the blue outdoor masking tape. That’s all I use these days. For most rims..unless really wide...I overlap the valve so it gets 3 layers, and the rest gets 2. An extra lap with more overlap for wide rims.
@Oddjob is not saying remove the entire valve from the wheel, just the screw in springy bit. Allows more air to flow through faster for those tires that need the extra burst to seat them. :)
 

creaky

XMAS Plumper
1.2 revolutions of cloth tape cut to width plus 3.5 overlapping revolutions of 24mm bear blue outdoor masking tape to get a perfect seal on any rim up to 35mm id.
Geez, you must have naturally loose bead to rim interfaces to fit that much tape in there and still get the tyre on/off.

Some rim/tyre combos have three tyre levers out with just one wrap of stans tape.
 
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