Hambo
"I did a lot of very fat people"
€58.17 or $93 each from a SRAM honey hole.
$119 from Pushys if you don't care about Rainbow colour
€58.17 or $93 each from a SRAM honey hole.
$125 from ze Germans if you can find a way to get it here.
Its not a honey hole if it doesn't ship here. I have the XX1 Rainbows on my Spur and Deviate![]()
Very true, hence the ending of 'if you can find a way'..
BTW, are the high end SRAM chains more durable than Shimano XT/XTR?
I wonder if longer chain life = more wear on the cassette as result?By the ones who have tested them extensively, yes XX1 and X0 are the longest wearing chains but probably nothing we would notice really.
Again depends on cleanliness and will depend on the material hardness of the partsI wonder if longer chain life = more wear on the cassette as result?
I have heard anecdotally that the best combo is an XX1/X0 chain and a cheaper all steel cassette is the best for wear.I wonder if longer chain life = more wear on the cassette as result?
I wonder if longer chain life = more wear on the cassette as result?
Steel cassettes are a great balance for longevity and reliability IMHO. Maybe the two biggest rings in alloy for a bit of weigh weenieing.I have heard anecdotally that the best combo is an XX1/X0 chain and a cheaper all steel cassette is the best for wear.
Depends on what you're using is for. As a cleaning agent for filthy stuff, it's not the best, for instance giving the parts mat a wipe down.What advantage do you get from using isopropyl over old fashioned metho? I get why it's used in hand sanitisers and the like but for cleaning I never saw the point.
I have heard anecdotally that the best combo is an XX1/X0 chain and a cheaper all steel cassette is the best for wear.
Have you tried going back to 10sp stuff on an eeb?Or go Linkglide, where you get super thick steel cassette cogs with the LG chain.
Alternatively as you said, a nice XX1 chain with a steelie, which has ruined their hopes of you destroying a light $700 XX1 cassette. Then you get the longevity of the cassette and a nice rainbow chain that doesn't rust.
On an eeb, don't even waste your time with a cheap or expensive regular Sram/Shimano chain, the ebike will stretch them out really quick.
GX 12 - 500km
XX1 12 - 800km
Linkglide 11 hot waxed - 800-900km
Linkglide 11 factory gunk and squirt = 1200km
Chain Life
I built my ebike from the frame, so am using 10 speed not sure that12 speed with a52 cog is needed on an ebikewww.rotorburn.com
Chain Life
No. Clean as a whistle :cool: ‘Clear as a whistle’ is the saying. Whistles are absolutely filthy.www.rotorburn.com
Have you tried going back to 10sp stuff on an eeb?
I'd use metho for all of the above and more, it's not as friendly to skin but because it evaporates that little bit slower I think it soaks in a bit more.Depends on what you're using is for. As a cleaning agent for filthy stuff, it's not the best, for instance giving the parts mat a wipe down.
But it generally evaoprates off faster and leaves no residue, and a bit easier to work with. At work we have a few things it gets used for in pre or post cleaning of serviced items, but in the shed the quick list I can think of is:
- Fork service, for inside stanchions, spring shafts, lowers, post service wiping down
- post brake bleed clean up
- frame prep for adhesive/cable rub patches
All of which I've done in the last week alone building up a new bike for the mini-me.
I had read that due to the additives in metho it can leave a behind a residue after flashing off/being wiped off.I'd use metho for all of the above and more, it's not as friendly to skin but because it evaporates that little bit slower I think it soaks in a bit more.
I've been called a tight arse before but just never saw the point in spending the extra.
FWIW I think that when LTWOO and SENSAH make the jump to Wireless (as per wheeltop) and provide infinitely programmable shifter/der Combos, SRAM/SHIM will be in trouble for Ebike drivetrainsHave you tried going back to 10sp stuff on an eeb?
I use industrial metho which doesn't have the bittering agent, that might be the difference.I had read that due to the additives in metho it can leave a behind a residue after flashing off/being wiped off.
I have had less brake rotor "grumbles" since switching to isopropyl alcohol.
I'm not sure which is more hygroscopic but both being infinitely miscible I'd guess they'd be pretty similar.Iso is a little more polar, and usually doesn't have denaturing agents like "etho" which can leave streaks. Ethanol more hygroscopic too (i think?), which adds to streaky crap, as leaves water streaks to dry.
Not much different on bike, but big difference on optical lenses and such
(Not even bunnings metho has methanol any more)