Ludicrously expensive bike stuff

Its not a honey hole if it doesn't ship here. I have the XX1 Rainbows on my Spur and Deviate ;)

Very true, hence the ending of 'if you can find a way'..

BTW, are the high end SRAM chains more durable than Shimano XT/XTR?
 
Very true, hence the ending of 'if you can find a way'..

BTW, are the high end SRAM chains more durable than Shimano XT/XTR?

By the ones who have tested them extensively, yes XX1 and X0 are the longest wearing chains but probably nothing we would notice really.

Clean chains, good shifting, regular application of lube will probably make a bigger difference.

I hate rusty chains and the Linkglide, which is not on this chart has taken top spot as the longest lasting chain... but rusts like hell.

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I wonder if longer chain life = more wear on the cassette as result?

The teeth on a cassette and the spacing on a new chain should mesh correctly. As the chain wears/stretches, it makes the roller spacing longer which wears the cassette.
So a slower stretching chain should be better, though a cheaper chain kept in check should be ok too.
 
I have heard anecdotally that the best combo is an XX1/X0 chain and a cheaper all steel cassette is the best for wear.
Steel cassettes are a great balance for longevity and reliability IMHO. Maybe the two biggest rings in alloy for a bit of weigh weenieing.
Going from 11 speed and up with more chain deflection can't be helpful either.
 
What advantage do you get from using isopropyl over old fashioned metho? I get why it's used in hand sanitisers and the like but for cleaning I never saw the point.
Depends on what you're using is for. As a cleaning agent for filthy stuff, it's not the best, for instance giving the parts mat a wipe down.

But it generally evaoprates off faster and leaves no residue, and a bit easier to work with. At work we have a few things it gets used for in pre or post cleaning of serviced items, but in the shed the quick list I can think of is:
- Fork service, for inside stanchions, spring shafts, lowers, post service wiping down
- post brake bleed clean up
- frame prep for adhesive/cable rub patches

All of which I've done in the last week alone building up a new bike for the mini-me.
 
I have heard anecdotally that the best combo is an XX1/X0 chain and a cheaper all steel cassette is the best for wear.

Or go Linkglide, where you get super thick steel cassette cogs with the LG chain.

Alternatively as you said, a nice XX1 chain with a steelie, which has ruined their hopes of you destroying a light $700 XX1 cassette. Then you get the longevity of the cassette and a nice rainbow chain that doesn't rust.

On an eeb, don't even waste your time with a cheap or expensive regular Sram/Shimano chain, the ebike will stretch them out really quick.

GX 12 - 500km
XX1 12 - 800km
Linkglide 11 hot waxed - 800-900km
Linkglide 11 factory gunk and squirt = 1200km


 
Or go Linkglide, where you get super thick steel cassette cogs with the LG chain.

Alternatively as you said, a nice XX1 chain with a steelie, which has ruined their hopes of you destroying a light $700 XX1 cassette. Then you get the longevity of the cassette and a nice rainbow chain that doesn't rust.

On an eeb, don't even waste your time with a cheap or expensive regular Sram/Shimano chain, the ebike will stretch them out really quick.

GX 12 - 500km
XX1 12 - 800km
Linkglide 11 hot waxed - 800-900km
Linkglide 11 factory gunk and squirt = 1200km


Have you tried going back to 10sp stuff on an eeb?
 
Have you tried going back to 10sp stuff on an eeb?

The chain for the Linkglide 10 & 11 is the same but the Linkglide 11spd derailleur is XT Shadow vs the 10spd Linkglide mech at Deore level. Also the shifter shifts 1 at a time vs 2-3.

I have zero issues with the 11spd. Apparently 11spd Linkglide needed a new shifter and derailleur, but I smashed the 11spd on the River Trail (the rooty dip ;) ) and fitted the 12spd XT temporarily, it worked fine with the 11spd shifter. So the pull must be very similar or the same, just slightly bigger/smaller gaps.
 
Depends on what you're using is for. As a cleaning agent for filthy stuff, it's not the best, for instance giving the parts mat a wipe down.

But it generally evaoprates off faster and leaves no residue, and a bit easier to work with. At work we have a few things it gets used for in pre or post cleaning of serviced items, but in the shed the quick list I can think of is:
- Fork service, for inside stanchions, spring shafts, lowers, post service wiping down
- post brake bleed clean up
- frame prep for adhesive/cable rub patches

All of which I've done in the last week alone building up a new bike for the mini-me.
I'd use metho for all of the above and more, it's not as friendly to skin but because it evaporates that little bit slower I think it soaks in a bit more.
I've been called a tight arse before but just never saw the point in spending the extra.
 
I'd use metho for all of the above and more, it's not as friendly to skin but because it evaporates that little bit slower I think it soaks in a bit more.
I've been called a tight arse before but just never saw the point in spending the extra.
I had read that due to the additives in metho it can leave a behind a residue after flashing off/being wiped off.

I have had less brake rotor "grumbles" since switching to isopropyl alcohol.
 
RE isopropyl Check your local Mitre 10 - mine stocks it in 1 & 5 liter bottles (Not that overpriced Diggers stuff) for about the same as that Sydney solvents per liter. Bit of a no brainer as far as I can see as it's in the realm of Metho at that point
 
Have you tried going back to 10sp stuff on an eeb?
FWIW I think that when LTWOO and SENSAH make the jump to Wireless (as per wheeltop) and provide infinitely programmable shifter/der Combos, SRAM/SHIM will be in trouble for Ebike drivetrains
 
I just did a bit of reading and apparently metho evaporates a bit quicker, it's pretty close in just about every way but because of the methanol in metho it's a bit more toxic.

I had read that due to the additives in metho it can leave a behind a residue after flashing off/being wiped off.

I have had less brake rotor "grumbles" since switching to isopropyl alcohol.
I use industrial metho which doesn't have the bittering agent, that might be the difference.
 
Iso is a little more polar, and usually doesn't have denaturing agents like "etho" which can leave streaks. Ethanol more hygroscopic too (i think?), which adds to streaky crap, as leaves water streaks to dry.

Not much different on bike, but big difference on optical lenses and such
(Not even bunnings metho has methanol any more)
I'm not sure which is more hygroscopic but both being infinitely miscible I'd guess they'd be pretty similar.
The metho I get in a 20 litre drum is 95% eth 5%meth and doesn't leave streaks. I'd know if it did because I use it on my eye glasses and for window cleaning.
 
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