Manitou Sherman fork issues

safreek

*******
More importantly, what endurbro bike you running? Whereabouts you riding?
God I miss getting out on my bike.

Do you know anyone wanting a unrego’d 525exc with new tyres, and a 20hr old top end rebuild for $2k ahaha. Injury’s put a stop to my petrol powered exploits

We’ll get zaf along shortly to extoll the virtues of the gearbox ahaha
Gearbox fork for the win
 

rowdyflat

chez le médecin
I have some Sherman Fireflys w titanium spring . Did a service recently.
I ride them at Falls Creek bought them in 2004 still go well- awesome fork except the travel adjust never worked well/
 

EZZA 84

Likes Bikes
He really should have cut the other end. The more spaced coils are the soft part. Can you stack some spacers under your preload knob, thus sneaking some preload in before you start twitching?
Yes that’s it, essentially taking away preload puts me straight in the harsher part of the stroke. I’ll give it a go.
 

EZZA 84

Likes Bikes
More importantly, what endurbro bike you running? Whereabouts you riding?
God I miss getting out on my bike.

Do you know anyone wanting a unrego’d 525exc with new tyres, and a 20hr old top end rebuild for $2k ahaha. Injury’s put a stop to my petrol powered exploits

We’ll get zaf along shortly to extoll the virtues of the gearbox ahaha
Riding a 2015 Beta 250rr Racing (2 stroke). Ride everywhere from Gisborne, Toongabbie, Woodside, Neerim, Glenburn, basiclally anwhere within a couple of hours from Melbourne. We mainly ride techical single track and stay away from the open stuff, a big day out for us would be 80km.
Not sure about someone to buy your bike but coming up to winter is a great time to sell it.
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EZZA 84

Likes Bikes
are you sure about the travel adjust mech not working, shouldn't the shorter spring just lower the forks and the sag will take up the space.
if the black plastic part now spins inside the spring, that should be an easy fix..get creative
check if the small wire with the loop on the end turns, this should allow the two small stoppers located about 1 inch down the shaft to fold in ( full travel mode) if it doesn't allow them to move or the looped wire doesn't twist you need to start there and repair that section, it should only turn about 90deg to disengage the travel adj
good luck
Yeah with them cutting the spring the black plastic bit now just spins and the two stoppers aren’t out. I’m happy with them stuck in the long travel mode but more concerned about them not having sufficient preload. I’ll try research how long the spring is meant to be or maybe look for another spring eventually. Cheers for the info
 
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pink poodle

気が狂っている男
More importantly, work out when the coil binds. This will likely be after the full compression of the forks travel is achieved. Once you figure out these lengths you could devise a spacer to preload your fork so that the coil bind is much closer to full compression of your fork, but still after full compression. Not sure I've explained that clearly? It's an old school fork stiffening trick some crazy motorcycle guy told me way back in the old days of bikes.
 

EZZA 84

Likes Bikes
Yes I think that makes sense. I guess another way would be to get my rider sag correct and therefore preload should be pretty close to standard. All depends how much they cut off the spring I guess....
I'm hesitant to spend any money on a new spring etc. since these were free and with the rebound adjuster not functioning properly.
 

EZZA 84

Likes Bikes
Sorry to be a pain in the ass guys, still new to all this but trying to learn. We're now in daylight savings again here in Melbz so looking at sorting this fork out again so I can do some after work rides at the local with the dog.
When changing oil and setting height, where exactly is the 'top' of the fork crown? Is it the top of the crown casting above the fork leg or the very top of the crown where the steerer tube enter the crown?

Also will try disable the low travel locking tabs so I can fix these into full travel mode.

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356815
 

Flow-Rider

Burner
I've never worked on Shermans but it's usually to the top of the dampener thread, I always measure the level before I dismantle and put it back the same unless the fork has a problem in that area. Most old school forks will work with 10~20mm over the bottom of the damper valve. Usually if your lockout doesn't work you don't have enough and if you don't get full travel and release oil from the damper and then do get full travel, you then have too much. The damper looks to be similar to the early Man Minutes which take a bit to bleed most of the air out.
 

rowdyflat

chez le médecin
Can check tonight but I think its the top of the casting above the fork leg.
No biggie though cos this applies.
Usually if your lockout doesn't work you don't have enough and if you don't get full travel and release oil from the damper and then do get full travel, you then have too much.
 

EZZA 84

Likes Bikes
Thanks for the responses guys. I managed to find a chart for new (2010) manitou forks which shows it measured to the top of the threads. I assume this is how the measure oil levels in all their forks.
I don't understand how their manual can be so vague :rolleyes:

Next I'll try to disable the travel adjust mechanism to try and lock them in to full travel mode.

After that I'll try suss out why the rebound adjust just turns without stopping in either direction, there seems to be a sufficient amount of dampening so I'm not all that fussed for my 'hack' riding as to whether I can adjust it or not :p


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rowdyflat

chez le médecin
Yeah that chart looks correct I can remember it was clarified by the mechanic at the bike shop years ago.
 

EZZA 84

Likes Bikes
So checked the oil level on the forks over the weekend. since the spring has been cut and the forks are stuck in the low travel position I've realized that the oil level will be incorrect. So I'm looking at disabling/breaking the travel adjuster and spacing out the spring to compensate for what's been cut off. Either that or try find a spring for it that's uncut and that will get everything working as it should. I've found a new spring on the site below but since I picked these up for free and they're in fairly average condition i'm trying to avoid spending money on them.

Also figured out the rebound adjuster does work when you wind it gently, has half a turn of adjustment. Before I was turning it too hard and I think it was spinning the rebound shaft internally.

 
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