Stredda
Runs naked through virgin scrub
Ok, that makes sense.
Newly Released Suspension & Components General
- Thread starter beeb
- Start date
Slowman
Likes Bikes and Dirt
I learnt the hard way too for my first marathon.
I have a set of Dura Ace C24s, the nipples aren't hidden but they are a bit shorter and instead of winding onto a threaded spoke the nipples itself is threaded into the rim. I don't think there's any benefit except for locking you into a proprietary system where replacement parts cost a premium. Same for hidden nipples. The extra aero benefits are the lure to reel you in.
Slowman
Likes Bikes and Dirt
That is such bad design. Even if there was an aero benefit it's no use at all off road and the fact that one broken spoke makes the wheel unrideable is piss poor design especially when the chances of a stick flicking into the spokes is real.
I would ring the CEO and give them a spray and send him/her a bill for the taxi.
ozzybmx
taking a shit with my boobs out
That is such bad design. Even if there was an aero benefit it's no use at all off road and the fact that one broken spoke makes the wheel unrideable is piss poor design especially when the chances of a stick flicking into the spokes is real.
I would ring the CEO and give them a spray and send him/her a bill for the taxi.
I tried a hairpin, rocky corner one day on my SS with these wheels fitted, I fell sideways and the bike came down on the chopped bushes next to it , pinging 3 spokes clean off on one side. They were nice wheels and Enve looked after me on warranty but completely impractical for MTB.
EDIT: This corner, one of my first uploads to YT. Easier on a geared fatty.
Mr Crudley
Glock in your sock
It is PITA but all to make a pretty wheel. I have old Enves that have been put on the Nickel. I like the clean look but it is a bit of a character test replace a stealthy nipple and/or busted spoke. They are a nice wheelset and I do like them, but minus points for form over function.
Wanker wheels are known as wanker wheels for a reason
If I had the option to build my own wheels, then I'd stick to conventional DT spokes, brass nipples and a hub with a good reputation for rebuildability hub with the CF hoops of your choice. You will be happier for longer.
teK--
Wheel size expert
Take my money!!! Even though my V1 is already awesome
The firmer top out spring would be nice but honestly don’t notice the top out on the trail, wider HBO hopefeully means you can use the last 30mm of travel. Email already sent to see if v2 parts can be dropped into v1.
Live2DieTrying
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Cool to see the smashpot finally coming for dual crown forks.
I guess the DC version just has a much longer top shaft, and the spring mounts lower down on it...
One thing I am interested to know, from Steve himself replying to comments on pinkbike...
Steve mentions the smashpot is the only coil setup that the coil sticks out the bottom of the stanchion... That stanchions have been getting shorter over the years. Even though lower legs have been getting longer (27.5 then 29)
Is this the case?? I know short travel / xc forks run shorter stanchions / less bushing overlap, but assumed that on long(er) travel forks, with increased space in the lowers for more bushing overlap, that it was being used properly...
I am stuck in the distant 26" past, but as an example, Marzocchi would use the same chassis on all travel options of a given model, and set the lower bushing depth according to the travel specified. (shorter travel, more overlap)
But -> all of their (Single crown) forks, whether it was 100mm or 190) had enough room INSIDE the stanchion to house the coil completely.
So, are modern forks skimping out on stanchion length and bushing overlap to reduce weight???
I guess the DC version just has a much longer top shaft, and the spring mounts lower down on it...
One thing I am interested to know, from Steve himself replying to comments on pinkbike...
Steve mentions the smashpot is the only coil setup that the coil sticks out the bottom of the stanchion... That stanchions have been getting shorter over the years. Even though lower legs have been getting longer (27.5 then 29)
Is this the case?? I know short travel / xc forks run shorter stanchions / less bushing overlap, but assumed that on long(er) travel forks, with increased space in the lowers for more bushing overlap, that it was being used properly...
I am stuck in the distant 26" past, but as an example, Marzocchi would use the same chassis on all travel options of a given model, and set the lower bushing depth according to the travel specified. (shorter travel, more overlap)
But -> all of their (Single crown) forks, whether it was 100mm or 190) had enough room INSIDE the stanchion to house the coil completely.
So, are modern forks skimping out on stanchion length and bushing overlap to reduce weight???
teK--
Wheel size expert
I can't say for sure, but my personal experience is limited to converting some 27.5 Fox 38, to 29er. All that was required was just change the lowers over. The extra length is actually in the dropouts, meaning the internal chamber of the legs appears to be identical dimensions to a 27.5.
The miniscule weight saving from running shorter stanchions makes me think that would not be a design reason.
Self quoting. Vorsprung replied and only the top caps and main spring are interchangeable. Everything else is new.
Changed to lighter spring and still can’t bottom out. Even on big hits still have 30mm left. When it’s apart next will shuffle all shims over (think you said you moved a couple) as seems silly to buy a shim kit from Dougal to use all the travel.I wonder how many folk that can't use the last bit of travel in the Smashpot bothered to re-shim the HBO? It's pretty easy to do.
(...but I had too firm a spring-rate in mine so never got near bottom-out anyway.)
Chris King seat collar. I must be old and grumpy why would you buy this when there is lighter and better looking options for far less. Straight conversion is $67 so call it $80AU. If you must match you hubs and seat collar I guess….
chrisking.com
King Seatpost Collar
Why We Made This – Symmetry is a key component of sound design. King riders have, for years, paired our headsets with our bottom brackets and hubs, to provide a few, classy pops of color to their bikes. But that left them with no off-setting visual cue at the top of the bike to make the look...
chrisking.com
ozzybmx
taking a shit with my boobs out
Must have missed it, did you put a smashpot on the Mezzer ?
Got a @beeb special and have a smashpotted Z1. To smash into everything.
Was running a CC Helm which I must list for sale soon.
ozzybmx
taking a shit with my boobs out
Got a @beeb special and have a smashpotted Z1. To smash into everything.
Not the same but the Push ACS I had came with a 55lb black spring, after 1 ride I contacted Cyclinic and said it was too stiff. I went 2 springs lower to a 45lb blue... which they sent me express for free and arrived the next day
which made the sag correct and felt loads better.I only had 5psi in the bottom out damper and still never got full travel out of that fork.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Fark, I've really go to start remembering who I sell stuff to - sorry mate! I thought in your earlier post you were talking generally, not about the specific fork.Got a @beeb special and have a smashpotted Z1. To smash into everything.
Smashpot is known for not getting last 30mm of travel unless your hucking cliffs. Dougal sells a shim kit to get this last 30mm so may do this not sure as yet.Not the same but the Push ACS I had came with a 55lb black spring, after 1 ride I contacted Cyclinic and said it was too stiff. I went 2 springs lower to a 45lb blue... which they sent me express for free and arrived the next day
I only had 5psi in the bottom out damper and still never got full travel out of that fork.
Live2DieTrying
Likes Bikes and Dirt
But it's $92NZ + postage. For all of about 20 shims, (probably less) and his drawing / graph.
I get he's spent time developing the tunes, but what gives with that price. Got to be the worst value upgrade from him in terms of what you get.
I respect him, and what he does, and other suspension tuners out there, but a self install kit like this with very basic parts should be WAY cheaper. It doesn't even include a new 'improved' piston!
I guess his logic is, if the customer has already spent $500 on the smashpot, whats another $100 to make it PERFECT.
Tuning is a skill, but it seems like a lot of these guys have a proper superiority complex
* A few years ago now I contacted Craig at Avalanche about a Midvalve kit he was selling for Manitou Travis.
He had it listed as No self installation.
He was so stubborn, and would NOT simply just sell me the kit (just some shims, a check plate and spring)
I explained that it was for my ShivAir project fork. That I was comfortable working on the damper, given I had already heavily modified it to fit into the Shiver.
My $20usd kit was going to cost closer to $200, and I gave up.
These days he no longer has the kit listed on his website.